02silverpathy

Got any pics of the noisy side Pete? Up in the wheel well would be sweet.

Maybe I am just stupid because of my left-handedness, but were we talking about this piece the whole time?

It is quite possible that the crossover was built into the bose amp. My BMW HK is, OEM Bose/OEM Harmon Kardon bah still paper speakers! I still say that those clarion tweeter speakers ae geat when crossed over and amplified. Worked in my path as well as the wifes Altima. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~That stealthbox has no amp!!~~~~~~~~~~~But is sure does fit well!

Damn young rig you scored...way to go !!! Welcome ! Change the fluid--its easy and add that tranny cooler now so less headaches later! --------------------------GREAT AVATAR !---------------------------------

:coffee!: Ditto to Doms, I want to know what Venge would use if he did it again! Meaning what "level" of dynomatt and all....the only deadening I did in my rig was the rear hatch..........many many little card board blockers around the lights and the hatch mech then 6...yes 1..2..3..4..5..6 cans of great stuff in the hatch made for a SUPER solid bass reflex area!! Lol I had 3 12" Infinity Perfects sharing an 1000 watt Memphis amp (roughly 300 watts each at 1.333 ohms) and the rear was solid...the roof and the cargo rack~different story! Any-who I remember venge saying that it made that loud rain water noise go away, and I have also heard the stuff does wonders in doors....since I am sticking those Focal 3pc components in this is very important!! XPLORx4 thanks for a great topic!

All very good info, truth is that the bose was probably reproducing some amount of distortion due to speakers out of control on bass notes...sounds deeper. Bose probably also had great crossover networks built in to separate the right freq.'s the right direction. Buy Focal Polyglass V3's...'cause its easy to spend somone elses money! I am putting the same in my rig...6.5 (in door) Tweet (in OEM location) and 4" mid (Custom Kick in floor).....this will make a strong sound stage which Michigan Ave is totally right about! He is also right about the EQ.....find yourself an older Audio Control "EQL". This is a multi band EQ that is perfect under a seat and is far superior to many many many brands of EQ---you can scoop them up on eBay for cheap! This is probably where I would start unless those 6.5's in the front haven't been replaced. I found that the factory Nissan tweeter is fairly decent (Made by Clarion) when fed a little more power. For boom...yeah well ...redundant....Mich ave beat me to everything! Deaden those doors! Infinity Perfect 6.5's would also add nice kick to them. (EDIT)...and just because I love XPLORx4 like a brother I never had...get a bose wave radio!

Careful there Orange....that dude may easily know how to fix it and want to take your rig!!! get another opinion!! Trust no one person, trust a couple anyhow! If you are bailing out, holler for the bumper...err unless you are getting another one!!!

Be careful with connectors, PB Blaster on all (read ALL) bolts, take your time...swap it yourself! I think it can be done fairly easy, wish I was there to help! ***********XPLORx4, easy through water eh?...my favorite video on your site, you racing through a stream..easy? HA! ********************************

OK so maybe I need to just but how does the air by-pass work in after market intakes? Then, could it be adapted to a Pop-Charger? Just a thought.

Yo! don't be spendy on those lights! I am looking at the exact same lamps...nope still no R50....anyway, look at the Hella FF75's. The Hella's and the Piaa's both have abs rears and magnesium reflectors, PIAA=H3 and Hella=H7....I am going to buy the Hella's from autoanything.com...this is the best price..74.95, free shipping! I looked at the 1500'S and the 2100's....just too much $$$ lest AARON can convince me different! Which he may?!

Probably!

Great! I forgot to mention that my radiator cap lost pressure right at 80K miles also...but I was so glad that this was the only repair, the $16 stant vented cap brought to me a smile!

My 2001 Altima started leaking out of hose clamps at about 78K miles...those stock claps are pretty decent, but they do lose pressure over time...sounds like the rig is holding up real good!

I can say from experience with my BMW that aluminum particles get into the fluid and gum up the operation until you get the particles out and fresh lubricant in. My BMW power steering is notorious for issues and I have avioded them, narrowly! It mae the pump much more quiet after I changed fluid...you will notice this on the slow moving sharp turns the most....I just don't know if you can say that is fluid breakdown since it is the particulate mass in the fluid. If you didn't already read, auto tranny fluid is essentially the same fluid for your power steering!

I would definately say that you want to empty the steering fluid out and change the fluid...the lucas power steering fix may not be a bad idea. The lucas transmission lubricant is awesome! My 01 Alty had no problems that I knew of, I swapped fluid, added the Lucas and now it shifts quick and sharp versus the slow seemingly drawn out shifts it had before! I am guessing when it was new it shifted this way. I have had the car since 47K and it now has 81K and I think that this is the best shifting the autotragic has ever done!!

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

bump

I have a customer spring manufacturer very close to me....my question is...can you simply have the OME coils stretched? If so what is the un compressed length of the AC coils? My OME coils were on road dreams...the only cruddy part was that they would bow down under any sort of load in the rear end. Lets not let this thread die!

This part sounds good and I have even read (on here?) that somone with a VQ QX4 got better as mileage...that word permanently slows me a little bit...........would it realy be permanent? What do I expect to pay for an entire set up? I am not understanding what parts are necessary...I must need a pocket PC, and the Ënhanced disc"? This has me super curious, especially since I enjoyed the very light tunability of a SAFC and a wideband!! What type of realistic gains and or monitoring?

:coffee!: Still preparing to get my 03-04 rig...i would have to agree they probably are all 4.363....the aim was (or at least I remember reading) to keep up with other SUV's in the quickness department...if I remember correctly it was the fastest SUV for a year or two (in its class of course...damn Tahoes are pretty impressive).

Dude if the battery is leaking, I am probably not worried about my bracket!! Your bracket is gorgeous and I am jealous...I don't have a bracket like that...or a pathfinder Lol, but I do have a deep cycle that would do nicely with such a hold down!!

The only downside I can see to installing the spacer this way was the tremendous squishing I had to do to get the spring pressed down so that the strut bearing topper thingy could still have the top of the strut through it and bolted on...did I lose everyone there? I really had to use 2 sets of spring compressors in order to compress the springs in progression to allow enough thread from the top of the strut to poke through and get the lock nut on....maybe that explanation was better? I don't know, just be very very careful when you are pressing that big front spring down and make damn sure that you get that lock nut on tight!! I actually had my oe set up strip out when I uninstalled the lift and the pressure that it shot back at me with was very impressive...I think that Venge had some experience with this also....my end result was 2 sets of spring compressors and a quick spot weld of the nut...my apologies to the new owner!?

voila! Notice my first install had the bolts going down...I did carve out the spring assembly for days while I struggled to figure out why my steering felt notchy! Lol, it was fun tearing all my hard work apart with only days between!

Empty area where new spring/strut/spacer will go...remember to put the hardware in through the spacer first then assemble the coil onto strut with all the assorted top pieces (technical terms anyone?), this way you will not have to try to feed these long bolts around the spring assembly up through the now much thicker spacer.

Strut/Spring missing, end link etc dissassembled