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To answer my own question, Apparently it does matter what bulb you put in there. The initial indications I saw before the changeover to LED's: Lights that worked - Cruise Cont, Rear window defog, ABS, 4x4. Lights after the LED installation that worked: ABS (Erroneous indication), Rear window defog, Cruise Cont. Lights after installing incandescent 74 bulbs... ALL WORK!! Properly at that... I don't think I have ever seen the Cruise light ever light since I have owned this thing. Now it works!! So.... it does appear to make a difference. LED's are cool, but some things only work properly with old tech!!

If anyone is planning on replacing their hydraulic lifters, I suggest following these steps/details...which were left out on other peoples posts from what I remember. -definitly clean the lifter block thoroughly as their are oil passages that weave through it and through a small hole in two of the bolt-thread areas (one on each end). I used carb cleaner since it shoots out a good strong shot of cleaner and air to blow out any gunk or crud...and mine had some that could not be seen just by looking at the lifter block. I second guessed my work on the passenger side and removed the assembly again to do a better job of cleaning and and sure enough blew out more gunk. -with new lifters, do not just shove them into the lifter holes in the block....as I found that some fit better in some lifter holes than others. so I had to test fit each one--with plenty of oil, until they all moved freely with just barely any finger pressure. If they feel too tight, try a different one. I soaked the whole block after cleaning in oil also so there were no 'dry' areas in them. Oil is a good thing....use plenty of it (I did NOT buy new lifter blocks....did not feel this was necessary) -thoroughly coat the cam lobes and lifters with clean oil before replacing the lifter assembly. I used an oil can (the old fashion kind with the hand trigger and flexible spout) to squirt ample amounts on everything -medium sized ZIP TIES are a life saver for keeping the old and new lifters in place when removing and reinstalling the assembly...this is also mentioned and shown in photos in other posts here regarding the same topic. -soak the new lifters in lightweight oil like 5w-30 or 5w-20 before installing and stand them upright in the oil bath...you will most likely see the tiny air bubbles escaping from the tips. I occasionally tapped them or banged my oil container with the lifters in it on the table to help losen any air bubbles. DO NOT turn the lifters upside down at any time. -I drove the first few miles gently to make sure they would seat properly and get fully lubed before putting any serious load on them. Maybe thats a bit much but I felt safer doing this, just like you would with a rebuilt engine....to break it in. This was my first time doing this and the first time I just did the passenger side and was NOT as thorough as I was the second time around which is probably why the #5 lifter got fried after just a few miles and I luckily caught it going bad before it was too late. Apparently it was not moving as freely as is should and the pad got severly worn down. I know it wore my cam lobe a little also but oh well replacing the cam is not in the books so it stays as it is Now with all new lifters, IAC valve, spark plugs, all vacuum lines and a cracked air intake tube fixed...and power steering restored (high pressure line replaced) she purrs like a kitten. Never run this good before. Hope it stays that way for a looong time. 1990 SE 5 speed with over 250,000 miles God knows how much I saved in LABOR costs had I had to take it to a shop for this much work. Special thanks to ROB (alkorahil) at Nissan in Texas for helping me with the parts and expertise. Highly recommended. -Chris