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When removing your torsion bar X-member, measure the tail of the adjuster bolts , that way you can get your suspension pretty much where it was in height, then you only need a small fine tune if necessary.

Not tearing the carpet is an incredible feat! I've definitely pulled the manual trans out of my 93 without cutting/removing the Y-pipe, but I did have the torsion bar crossmember and front diff out. Was a bit of a puzzle to get the transfer case tail housing down past the fixed crossmember, but it is doable. Front diff is very annoying to get back in because of the weird balance, but torsion bars and crossmember are pretty easy, even if a few rusted bolts give out (as they did for me). For posterity's sake, pulling the Y-pipe down off the manifolds early is very nice. With that and the trans mount disconnected, the motor mounts allow quite a bit of forward/backward tilt which can make reaching those top bell housing bolts easier. For install, I found it handy to cut the heads off a couple of spare bell housing bolts and thread them into the block. Definitely not necessary but helped a bit with aligning trans and engine. Also, since the engine can move so much it can be hard to eyeball the alignment. Having someone to watch from a wheel well while you wiggle and push is very nice. Not sure if any of this is helpful at all, but good luck!

When I helped a friend swap the trans in his S10 Blazer, we just shot a spot of paint on each torsion bar adjuster. We used a different color on either side so we couldn't mix up the parts. Then when we put it back together, we just lined up the paint marks. Worked great.

Wrecker or part-out would be my go-to as well. If you strike out locally, I have two of them from my '95 parts car. Grey, cloth, hole in the middle. Not mint, but not bad. I don't think they have the big ribs around the outside that the headrests in your picture do, not sure if that's an early/late thing or an XE/SE thing. If you want new, looks like Amayama still has them, but they ain't cheap.

Falling behind on updates again... My guys' trip to Moab has come and gone, but unfortunately the truck was not ready in time for it. I still made it up there and had a great trip riding shotgun in Towndawg's truck (recently fitted with 4:1 t-case gears and a rear ARB locker...front ARB didn't get installed in time). Long story short, I was able to get the truck out of the garage and around the block a few times, but the steering and alignment didn't feel right, and the gear box started leaking. I had already rebuilt the power steering lines again (they had sprung a leak a 2nd time) so I have little confidence in their ability at the moment, but they seem to be holding now. This time around I snugged the fittings up a little less thinking maybe I was over-tightening them and compromising the liner. But frankly, if they're this sensitive to assembly, I probably don't want them. For now, they'll do. Parts are on order to rebuild the gear box, which I probably should have done in the first place. Beyond that, the setup has not been tested at all...but at least it drives now! Here were the finishing pieces of the build... The driveshaft adapter turned out great: Got the new rear 5.13 (41:8 = 5.125) gears installed. That took a lot of effort, though. I've surely mentioned it before, but the H233 used thick rings/spacers/washers of different thicknesses to set pinion height and preload, and practically all of those pieces are either no longer available, or several bucks each (and you don't really know which piece you'd need unless you have the proper setup tools). It didn't use traditional shims, and even then, there aren't really any good options available due to odd metric sizes. Fortunately, the new pinion gear sat high, so I was able to grind down OE spacer pieces on a flat belt sander. Unfortunately, it was a lot of trial-and-error to dial in the height (a lot of pressing pieces on and pulling pieces off), and I basically took the pieces down to the minimum factory dimensions to get it as close as I could. It sucked and took a lot of time, but the pattern is good. I also managed to strip some threads on the bracket that holds the actuator piston for my TJM, so I had to pull that off to weld some nuts on get some threads. I got the switches wired up for the overhead console the other week. I ran some 8-conductor wiring up the passenger A-pillar and into the engine bay. Six of the wires are for the overhead panel, and the other 2 I'll wire up for powering a USB port for the dash cam eventually. I ended up drawing ACC power, ground, and illumination from the compass module. Opened it up, soldered on leads, and crimped on terminals and harnesses. The panel is for a Patrol, and while the color isn't a perfect match for my gray "K" trim, it's close enough for me and I'm super happy to finally put it to use. Things are wired up in a way that's consistent with their usage; i.e., you can't engage the front locker unless the rear locker is engaged, and you can't engage the sway bar disconnect or rear locker until the compressor is on. Remote Air is for the tire inflation setup; it can either hold the air, deflate, or inflate. I was not able to get the compressor, relays, or solenoids wired up until last night, and tonight I needed to sort out some leaks from having to shuffle around my setup. These are not the finished pics, but close enough for now. I opted to use some modular solenoids that stack together instead of the ARB style solenoids...that 4-solenoid modular unit costs less than one ARB solenoid, but was a little tough to find. That funky rubber boot thing is an adjustable pressure sensor switch that I was hoping to use for the tire inflation (Remote Air) switch, so that it would stop inflating at a set PSI. Unfortunately, it's so sensitive that it'll just flutter at the set temperature and cause the compressor to keep cycling. So, I'll probably just retain it as a safety cut-off. Also determined tonight that gauge is garbage...it's way off. Lastly, this is how it sat as of yesterday before a powerwash. I spy something SASsy.

Just so I make sure I didn't lead you astray: The rear rubber oil pan seal attaches to the aluminum RMS housing which can be removed from the block with 4 (I believe) bolts. If your oil pan gasket is leaking elsewhere of course you would want to remove the pan and replace the gasket but there's no need if it's just the curved rubber bit beneath the RMS housing.

These headrests have come standard in SE model. My 1995 has the exact cloth headrests and Nissan use it at least from 1990-1995 SE model. Have to try your local wrecking yard? Below a Craigs List link that may still have it for sale: 1992 Nissan Pathfinder for parts - auto parts - by owner - craigslist Good luck.

I think, if I'm going to go as far as replacing that bottom piece of rubber, I'll take out the whole oil pan. It took a decent amount of force with "Pry Tabs" to pull the front cover off of the transmission, I can only imagine how fun it would be to pull the RMS housing and not have ANYTHING to pry on. As far as filling the transmission, mine is a 92 as well. I'm planning on filling it through the shifter before I button up the interior. About the easiest way if you're already pulled apart.