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Slow progress yesterday and today. CAD'd up the poly motor mounts and am going to try to get the pieces cut tomorrow. Made a bit of a drive today to pick up some FJ80 radius arms. Had been eyeballing a crusty set on eBay, but with tax and shipping they'd be about $250. Fortunately, the guy's not far from here so I got in touch with him offline...done deal at $80. They were as crusty as expected, so they needed some wire wheel'n. And now I have RAs, into them about $140 after gas and new bushings. And here's what we're shooting for... This orientation is how the FJ80/FZJ80 is set up. In that world, some guys will flip the RAs to be atop the axle, and I was hoping to do the same but the rear subframe mount would ultimately limit up-travel unless I put a lot more lift back in. But, this setup works fine for me. I need to drag the axle back out to cut and grind the leaf spring perches to tuck the arms up. Passenger side shouldn't be too bad, but the driver's side is integrated into the cast so it's just a big chunk of steel I'll need to get through. I'm going to see if I can move the arms outboard so that I'm just dealing with tube, but I think the tires will just scrub on them. As far as rear mounting goes, that bushing is almost directly under the transmission crossmember, which is perfect. Plan there is to build a new crossmember that has the mounting provisions, and also clears the driveshaft. I plan to reinforce the mounting area and add more attachment points.

Hey everyone I'm having an issue with a very small leak with my EVAP system. It can be a multitude of issues as shown by the FSM. I made a video because I feel like it can be the bypass valve but would like more clarification whether this part is functioning correctly or not. https://youtu.be/Hi5M2RkkDmk

Phase 1 (Disassembly) complete! Finished removing all the power steering components, basically leaving only the steering linkage at the firewall. Little leaks and dirt saturation all over the pump and reservoir, both of which will get cleaned up, rebuilt, and new hoses. Leaning towards buying a hose crimper just to do the high pressure line myself when the time comes. First fabrication of the project was making engine slingers. Once I pulled the p/s pump I could see where the holes are for factory slingers, but it basically mandated use of those specific genuine tools and it's a pretty lousy spot. Instead, I made a bracket to mount where the p/s pump was, and another that attaches to the motor mount bracket. With engine supported, I could drop the subframe and spacers...clean slate! One thing's to be said about preparing the space on a unibody vs. a framed truck...there was zero grinding or cutting involved. Everything just unbolts and that's it. I'm going to try to keep other things as bolt-on as possible. For sure, the area where the steering gear box will go will be plated and sleeved, so welding required there. Phase 2 (Mock-up) began by dropping some plumbs and getting the axle in place. For now, I just needed to get a solid feel about how much space I'll have between the tires and the wheel well skirts. Looks like it's almost 7", but that might be a generous number. Coil springs I'm eyeballing (likely a Jeep WJ or JK spring) appear to be about 5" OD. I'll get a little more space if I run the 1" spacers I already run, and I prefer that stance overall. Initial observations are good overall! For now, I'm using the Heim steering setup for mock-up since it's already the correct length, but it'll get chopped up a little to use the GM TREs. The JK adjustable track bar looks like it might be a really good match length-wise for the drag link, but numbers still pretty rough until I can mock up the gear box. Plenty of oil pan clearance, though I still want to move the axle forward another inch or two than shown in pics. Good clearances so far. As for the radius arms, I've been looking into either making custom arms or using a OE set from an FJ80. I'd prefer to minimize work if I can since pretty much everything else has to be fabricated from scratch. There's a set somewhat local to me that needs some cleaning and new bushings; easy enough. Length looks to be about perfect, too. The tails should end up around where the transmission crossmember is, which will work out great building up a new crossmember for the mounts and driveshaft clearance. Next step is to start mirroring the subframe mounting points so I have an idea of how to reattach the motor to the chassis and space for mounting provisions. Also need to pull the motor mounts, get them jigged up to make poly versions, and clean up the chassis rail where the gear box will go.

Well, project officially began today. Had some helping hands: Just need to figure out how to sling the engine up. No good attachment points on the passenger side at all. Once I figure that out, I can pull the subframe and finally have a clean slate for mock-up.

finally get out in the woods after new purple spring bastard pack Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man, I am sorry I do not get onto these forums near enough. Just moved to SoCal 2 months ago and life has been crazy. Had some free time to wrench on my 02 yesterday, installed new trailing arms (minus one that I rounded a nut on) and replaced a leaky O-ring on one of the camshaft position sensors. She's at almost 170k miles now and runs like a beast, I drive her to work everyday. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Man I love your rig. The stance on this thing is awesome

This is a guess since I had to put a new gauge cluster in but about 35k on them now. There are two with much better tread and another with evenly low tread. I went 20k miles with my suspension in shambles so that’s what I get for the neglect.

thank you!! i lined up their drilled holes with stock holes in the bumper for placement and just love it. you should totally throw some lights there, when i had the grill out i had them in the bolt holes that i lined them up with later and the recessed/not sticking out farther than the grill did look was also cool. just wanted stuff not keep getting stuck in my radiator while the grill wasnt there so i ended up putting it back lol. i’ve had one hell of a time aiming them though lol. they’re either just above highbeam or fogs but they’re brighter than highbeam level bright at least Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like the placement of the lights! Looks natural, been considering something similar to that myself

Just keepin the thread going. #97jlr50 #infinitinorthamerica #cleanmachine Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk