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If you have rubbing, instead of cutting the fender liner out (which will fill with mud & debris) consider deforming the plastic with a heat gun. Another alternative is to make 2 little holes & use a zip tie behind the fender to pull the liner farther away or adjust where the liner connects below, again pulling the liner away. These are all common fixes used in T4Rs & should work here as well.

Got the new set of coils today. You were right, looks like someone did a little funny business with the last set that came. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's important which axles you buy if you go aftermarket! I lifted with all around AC coils on my '98 Qx4. Took it on a wheeling trip after the lift + tires (before it really settled on the lift btw). OEM stock CV boots were SHREDDED after that. So I kept those axles thinking about rebooting for a trail set (have not done this yet and it's been many months lol). To replace the axles I went with O'Reilly CVs because they have the closest store to me. The axles fit, but I busted the boots within a few weeks, which included several hundred road miles and some light dirt roads. I got the axles swapped under warranty and put in the same brand thinking maybe it was just a bad set of axles. It was not, the brand (Import Direct) is just crappy and not up to what we use these rigs for. Now i got the AutoZone axles (Duralast). I wish i took pics to compare the two, but here is a quick summary. After a wheeling trip with the Second set Import Direct axles, which included some mud pit adventures- the axles were corroding. I left the mud on there for a day or two before washing the car off. But this is a Cali car, no salt on roads, very little water besides the mud pit. This was a little more than just surface corrosion, it had turned a rusty color and the surface of the hubs was super rough! they looked super gross honestly lol Obviously torn boots, which is the main reason i was swapping them limited 1 year warranty Compare this to the Duralast axles autozone lifetime warranty (automatically makes it worth it in my opinion) the axles were physically heavier and beefier in literally every aspect, from the inside hub, to the center shaft, to the outer hub. Significant weight difference, I am thinking around 5 pounds per axle (total guess, but the weight difference was significant!). But heavier in a good way, solid built material quality was better. the boots themselves feeling like nicer rubber, with more riffles. The hubs were bigger and higher quality metal, with what looked like better heat treating spots. as soon as i pulled them out of the box I knew they'd last longer. They were a little harder to install, slightly bigger size made the fit a little tighter, but still very doable. it's only been a few hundred miles, 99% road miles. But i went and checked the boots before this post and they are absolutely fine. They still feel nice and no tears. there is more stability with the front end steering and I can tell it rolls a little more solid because of the extra weight and size. Again, good changes in my opinion. Note: if i say hub in this post i mean the big ends of the axle, not actual manual locking hubs (which i do not have). I do not know the exact name for this part of the axle lol. cost difference, the Import Direct axles are $80-$90 (each), and the autozone ones are like +$25 or so compared to those. Honestly, after holding both of the axles in my hands and comparing them, I'd say it is VERY worth the minor price difference. If the boots rip on me soon, I will check back to this post and let y'all know

If you have a shop put the tires and wheels on for you, explicitly tell them the advice from @RainGoat before they mount. Otherwise, when you pick up your vehicle you may find they took the easy path, cutting the fender liner. That's how I ended up with holes.

Yes. They have no idea what they’re talking about. Most 4x4 shops just do Jeep and Toyota stuff, and will be clueless on what works with R50’s.

I didn’t end up getting any pics last night because my hands were covered in grease and it was 2am so I just wanted to get everything done. I’ll try to snap a pic of the damage to the warn hub

Check your grounding is good to the pump too, and make sure your fuel tank is clean and the sock at the bottom isn't blocked.

If money is an issue, I would try to pull a fuel pump from another Pathfinder in a scrap yard. Of course, they're hard to come by in a Pick-n-Pull or whatever. I drove to like 6 in my state one day, and only found a handful of parts that I needed.

I miss my Pathfinder.... not the 16mpg.... but I have officially requested an authorization to replace the frame with a custom build, cross your fingers for a thumbs up!!

Personally I would suggest a definitive diagnostic and confirmation that it IS the fuel pump and not a bad wire in the loom that snakes around next to he exhaust / bash guard for the tank / tank mounting bolt hangers. You may want to get yourself a $7 test light from the auto parts store before you drop $$$ on a part you don't actually need. The test light is a very handy tool if you can figure out a wiring diagram power / control and ground. You can figure out _where_ the problem is instead of firing the "new parts cannon" at the vehicle. My test light _would have_ saved me from replacing the battery, the starter and alternator and getting a tow.... but I trusted a digital voltmeter instead. My mistake. In short.... it _might_ be the pump. But you should _know_ that it IS the pump before you open that can of worms on an old truck like ours.

My original fuel pump lasted over 25 years and 400,000 miles... So, you know what, I went back with another brand new in the box factory part. I bought mine from Nissan Parts Deal https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com Nissan Part No.:17042-41G03 PUMP ASSY FUEL