Leaderboard

Alright it's been a long time since I've been on here but the rig still exists in my life but now I'm addressing the huge oil leak I've had for a year or so and always put the job off to the side as it's somewhat a big one for a $20 part. Upper oil pan seal is completely shot with the RMS only weeping just a little bit of oil. Had to remove lots of large components to get the tranny out like the front diff, exhaust, drivelines obviously and other tid bits which add up time. So far got the flex plate off and called it a night and hopefully will resume next weekend. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

They’re worth it for everyone

If something in the front drivetrain were to break or get damaged, being able to disconnect the front drivetrain at the hubs is very useful. It’s not a likely or common occurrence, but it is a possibility. And manual hubs make it easier to run an auto locker in the front

The Warn Lockomatics I had in my Scout definitely didn't lock in reverse. I had to get out in cold mud several times to lock them. Researching to see if my memory was totally faulty, I see they should have locked, but it is a common failure condition to not. This was 25 years ago, and I'm sure they weren't properly maintained. Some really old auto lock hubs had one way sprag clutches, but most have bidirectional locking roller bearings. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

With the R50, no advantage when 4 wheeling unless you have a locked front diff. The R50 uses drive flanges so a very solid and absolutely reliable connection between the axle an wheel hub. As has been said earlier, the advantage is when in 2WD, it saves parasitic drag and wear in the front drivetrain. Older trucks like my WD21 had auto locking hubs that by their design, are less useful and reliable when off pavement so are a good upgrade. I have actually considered getting a pair of R50 flanges to carry in my truck as emergency spares for if I manage to break a locking hub. The auto hubs do lock in both forward and reverse, but there is a short period where they unlock when changing between forward and back. Example, when 4wd is selected, the front drive turns and engages the hubs when the axles turn in either forward or reverse. The hubs then remain locked until you change direction. Then the hubs unlock and then relock. Normally not a problem, but if you are stuck and try rocking to unstick yourself, there is the lag with the front. That tends to cause the rear to dig in and make the stuck worse. Happened to me a couple times. Also, in higher throttle applications and a front wheel lifts, like climbing a hill if you let off the throttle while a wheel is in the air the momentum of the spinning wheel will cause the hub to unlock when the wheel is turning faster than the axle. Then if you get back on to the throttle, the hub will relock violently and makes a horrible bang and can cause the hub to break. Had both types of events happen to me with my truck back when she was new to me a few times, so I was motivated to understand how the hubs work. Also made me find the money for my Warns. Problems you R50 folks won't have unless you replace the drive flanges with the automatic hubs found on the WD21s and V6 D21 trucks.