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found these in my camera roll today

Hanging with@TowndawgR50

hey guys new to the forums i have a problem my pathys compartment would never cool down although the ac is cold but if you dont direct the vents on you, you would feel like their is no ac. what can the problem be? has anybody ever fitted ac to the rear seats?

I’d have to agree that modding a vehicle is a slippery slope. I’ve found that when it comes to modding mine out, my best ideas happen while I’m driving/working on the vehicle- music sounds crappy while I’m driving, so I upgrade the sound. Rocker panel got a dent, add rock sliders. Missed a turn on a dark trail at night, added 45* “ditch” lighting. Need trail communication, got a cb radio. So drive it around, use it for what you want to use it for, and upgrade accordingly. For me, buying stuff I don’t use or need (like my rotopax) is one of the more frustrating feelings

Welcome to the group. Honestly, my vote would be to basically leave it mostly stock. Do whatever maintenance and repair is appropriate for the age, mileage, and condition of the vehicle, but upgrade a few things, then just enjoy it. Modifying the truck is a slippery slope and, frankly, there's not much for upgrades out there. It's a great truck as-is; goal number one is just getting—and keeping—it, on the road. If anything: Invest in a proper lift and suspension package: Old Man Emu springs, shocks, and struts. Great reputation, great ride and handling qualities, moderate lift. Pricey, but worth it. I wouldn't bother with spacers here, unless it's to help level out your stance...if you'll already be taking everything off the truck, just replace it the right stuff. Get some quality all-terrain tires in OE size (P265/70-15), or maybe upgrade to LT's or 31x10.5 if you think you'll have an inkling to venture off-road one day. If you like the stock look but want larger wheels (yours are 15x7), consider finding (or piece together) a set of 17x8 LE wheels from 01-04 Pathfinders or the 17x8 "Supercharger" wheels from 02-04 Frontiers/Xterras. Good looks without having to fuss with backspacing and center bore nuisances. If you're into tunes, upgrade the head-unit and/or speakers; maybe add an amp and sub. Anything else is going to requiring drilling, more wiring, and perhaps even custom fabrication. Not that I frown on that stuff, but if you're just getting into things and hoping for bolt-on stuff, you probably won't find it. I wouldn't go gonzo with a bunch of stuff you're probably not going to use, unless that's just part of the dream you're going for. I won't judge. If you plan to be in the vehicle for long trips, focus on maintenance, creature comforts, and roadside readiness, especially if you have passengers. Perhaps consider making some sort of storage/cargo unit for the rear to help keep gear and tools organized and accessible; add a reliable air compressor (I love having an on-board system, personally); or purchase a 12v fridge/freezer for those extended road trips (may require some other things, like a backup battery or fridge slide, etc.).

Swapping cranks/pumps (the pump is crank driven, and doesn't interchange between 30/33 cranks) to keep stock accessories might make sense in a Z31, but it seems like a lot of extra work in a WD21. The X/Fronty VG33 accessory layout is supposed to fit in the WD21 engine bay. AFAIK the alt and steering pump shouldn't be all that different, though it looks like the port design on the aircon compressor might require some creativity to hook into the WD21 aircon lines. I'd much rather modify a couple of hose fittings than tear down the bottom end, especially if the crank/pump you have on hand are the ones in the engine with 350k on it. The only bottom-end work you'd have to worry about is the oil pan and possibly the oil pickup. The thread linked below says that you can use a VG30 pan and the Xterra pickup and it'll bolt right up. IIRC somebody on here used a VG33 pan and just beat it with the BFH until it cleared (don't remember which donor it was from or what it fouled on, probably the diff). Then, yes, VG33 heads, VG30 cams, VG30 intake/sensors/wiring. The VG33 exhaust studs are bigger, so you'll probably need to hog out the holes in the exhaust manifolds. Make sure those fit before the engine's in the truck and you've got bugger-all room to see what you're doing. Check this thread out if you haven't yet. He went all kinds of hog-wild on his, but there's good info for milder builds there, too--and because he built it for a WD21, not a Z31, there's better info about what will/won't fit. Keep in mind that he's using the throttle body injection intake, not the multiport you've got, so ignore the bit about gutting the mixture preheater that you don't have. His intake gasket recommendation should still apply. Unfortunately he quit making the special adapter he used to put the V-belt pulleys on the VG33 crank. Also unfortunately, the pictures are on Photobucket, which has for some reason decided to blur them and add a watermark so we know who to blame.

The spacer isn't visible (not sure what rubber grummet you speak of). The pic is of the bottom of the spacer, so it gets installed when the strut is assembled. If the spacer isn't installed, the non-keyed portion of the strut shaft will eventually dig into the metal insert of the mount and eventually allow for 1/2" of vertical play, which may also wallow out the hole over time.

I know this may be a bit late, but yes you can very easily do a single kayak that way

If you had the 3M ceramic tint installed, do you mind saying what it cost? I've been meaning to look into this and haven't gotten around to it. I don't want to install it myself though. I put solar blocking tint on some of my home windows, and wanted to claw my eyeballs out while trying to get it on not wrinkled or scratched. I wasted more than half of it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Those pressure numbers sound about right for the ambiant temps. I would suggest washing out the condenser and radiator fins too, but I have seen pictures of your truck so a dirty condenser is not a likely issue. With the window tint, here in Utah, legal limits are 43% +/- 3% for the front side windows, dark as you want behind the front doors provided you have mirrors on both sides, and only a strip along the top 6" of the windshield. With that information, I wound up doing a 50% on my front doors and 35% on the rear doors and hatch glass. I went with a 3M ceramic tint with a high IR rejection in bronze to match the factory tint on my rear windows ( my Pathfinder is an Intermountain SE). It has made a huge improvement in my truck. I had the compressor fail years ago and the tint has managed to keep the temperature down enough that I have been able to survive. Someday I will get caught up enough to fix my AC, but at this point it is a want rather than a need. Too many needs to be addressed still.

Heat rejection from *good quality* window tint has a huge effect on AC cooling. Air flow over the condenser at low speeds is another big factor. Our AC setup has the ability to do some serious cooling. I've measured 34degF at full blast with recirculation on. If its not fighting an onslaught from the sun then I bet it'd get chilly in there quickly. I do notice vent temps rise the instant I start slowing down.. hopefully I can report better performance after my electric radiator fan install. I'd be interested to hear what someone with high quality tint experiences.

I'd start by checking the pressures in the A/C system, it might just need more gas. If the pressures are good, compressor cycles like it should, but it's not blowing cold, maybe there's something not working right under the dash. Hopefully it's something simple, Dubai with no A/C does not sound like fun.