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Just keepin the thread going. #97jlr50 #infinitinorthamerica #cleanmachine Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

Time for an update! Another month gone by... It's been busy the last several weeks, as usual. We've since acquired all the steel and hardware we need to do the first batch of kits. We've done a limited run of parts to validate our anticipated production processes, and things are currently in @TowndawgR50's hands to complete the first finished kits. For now, this first pass only includes a complete 3" and 4" kit (and technically the 1.75" spacer, thanks to the modular design), as well as two panhard drop bracket options: a short bracket that gives a simple 3.5" drop, and a long bracket for 3.5", 4.5", or 5.5" drops. We also intend to offer extended rear sway bar end links. Expect some teaser pics soon. We are planning to install the first 3" kit in less than 2 weeks (!!), so we're both excited and stressed. Soon after, The Gambler will get outfitted with the 4" kit. If everything goes to plan, we'll start cranking out the remaining kits for the initial group we've been working with. Also, we want to make a clarification about the camber-correction function of the strut spacers: while the two-piece strut spacers allow for camber adjustments, we are still advocating the use of camber bolts. The adjustment feature is primarily to make large camber adjustments during the installation process. You'll be able to eyeball the camber during installation, and get it dialed in relatively well, but our secondary objective is to simply make sure the truck is alignable—and for many people (including myself), this means taking the truck to a professional shop. The use of camber bolts gives alignment shops the ability to accurately dial things in, using a part/process that they are very familiar with. While we like our strut spacer approach, it will be very foreign to many shops, who may refuse to adjust them. Keep in mind that R50s didn't have camber or caster adjustability to begin with, so there's already the initial challenge of informing the shop that you've added camber adjustability. Feel free to ask any questions, otherwise more updates to follow soon!

So... After already starting a topic or 2 I thought I'd just start documenting all of the madness of trying to pull a Frankenstein. This will certainly test my patience but I'm all in on this project and it's just due to boredom and sentiment. My parents had a '93 hardbody and a '96 R50 so I wanted to buy one to fool around with but ended up buying 2 of them in need of major TLC instead. It's going to be slow and steady but I can be long winded so read on with a grain or 2 of salt. The first two topics are: And I've already had a handful of issues and really haven't documented a whole lot but I'm going to try to start from my current position and hopefully get help where needed. You'll find that this is truly a rescue thread more than a build because there are sooooo many things that need work. Anyway, I'm off like a herd of turtles. I'll post a few pics tomorrow and cover where I'm at with this project. Thanks to all in advance for your patience.

After years of chatting about our own Pathfinder projects—and often, grumblings about having to make our own parts or hack together something—it’s become clear that Jacob (@TowndawgR50) and I (Patrick) have a common passion for our trucks. We’re always bouncing ideas around and sanity-checking each other’s work, ultimately realizing we have highly complementary skill sets that extend beyond working on trucks. We’ve also grown tired of a serious lack of aftermarket support for our trucks, especially when there’s an obvious demand to keep them on the road and make them more capable than they already are. To counter that, we’re teaming up to fill that void. That’s right: it’s time to turn a hobby into a business! In the weeks to come, we will be making more announcements regarding the status of the company (still working on the name!) and our product offerings. We’re still in the early stages of the company formation, and have some challenges ahead of us (most notably the 1,400 miles that separate us!), but we’re ready and stoked to get the word out there. If any of our individual projects have piqued your interest, then our collaborative efforts won’t disappoint. Our initial focus will be on subframe drop (SFD) kits, as this is the most important component required to move beyond 2” of front suspension lift. Unlike prior versions of kits that have existed, we intend to offer complete kits and à la carte components in multiple heights—including strut spacers—to support various lift configurations. Our particular focus is to provide high-quality finished products that simplify installation for the average DIYer (hint: strut disassembly not required), and without having to replace aftermarket components you’ve already purchased. While we won’t go into detail about all the products (and services) we’ve been discussing, we will tease that trailing arms and panhard bars (both in static lengths with poly bushings, and adjustable lengths with rebuildable joints), skid plates, missing link, and bumper brackets are on the product roadmap. That said, we’re looking forward to a productive 2019, so stay tuned!

not a pathfinder, but here’s my ride to prom tonight. My grandpa’s restores 66 GTO, bored out motor and headers, among other things

Sorry if I upset some of the R51 guys on the forum, but if you want a tough vehicle that won’t fail you for a solid 200k miles, I personally wouldn’t go for an R51 Pathy. Main reason being the transmission, which is notoriously faulty. Plus, that’s not long after Renault took control of Nissan, so most of your build quality in an R51 tends to be slightly French-@!*%box-y. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've never seen a relay and fuse integrated in a Nissan or any other OEM vehicle. But they can be in the same larger wiring box. Does the box have labels on top? Have you opened it up? Here in a sec I'll take a pic. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

In my 2001 it's in a box above the driver's wheel well inside the engine bay, and it's clearly labeled on the cover. I've tapped into it to control my electric radiator fan and trailer power lines. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Good call on the pump! One less thing to go wrong and make you do the whole thing again. Same goes for the cam and crank seals, tensioner pulley, and water pump bypass hose. LC-9 in the '97 manual has a diagram of where the plugs are. Looks like the right one is between the motor mount and the power steering pump bracket, and the left one is between the motor mount and the alty. One of mine was seized stiff enough that I was worried I'd break something and left it alone. The other came out, but water didn't until I jammed something up the hole to break up the crud that had settled above it. I'd assume the crap on the injectors is the same as what's inside the manifold (mix of oil vapor and blow-by from the PCV and carbon from the EGR), though seeing it all on one side makes me wonder if you just bumped the injectors into the valve cover or something while removing them and the ends scooped up some crap. Are they all like that? Probably worth cleaning while you're in there but not a sign of creeping death or anything as far as I'm aware. I never disconnected mine from the lower manifold, so I don't know what mine looked like to compare. I had some cleaning to do when I pulled my manifold, too. The plug wells and the valley under the intake were all full of dirt and rat crap, and I didn't want any of that going into the cylinders when I changed the plugs. There was some casting flash on the heads keeping junk in the plug wells, which I busted out with a screwdriver while I was at it to hopefully keep things cleaner in the future. Not sure if that's just a VG30 thing or if the VG33 heads have the same issue. Good luck with the creeper and the bones!

Yep, sounds like water got into the trans. Maybe the breather hose came off? Hopefully a drain and fill will calm it down, but the whining sounds like bearing damage. Check your transfer case and your diffs, too.

yeah it followed the tire so i contacted amazon and we are going to exchange tires now. after it followed the tire i figured it just that badly out of round and is therefore defective so amazon covered me! it’ll be here wednesday so we will know for sure that day or by the weekend definitely. in other news i’ll be installing my hubs, new extra lights (while also possibly figuring out a way to mount the original fogs on the old bumper), relocating the knock sensor to the front of the engine, and installing my lca brace as soon as i finish pounding the ends flat lol. that and if i have time MORE PAINT AND RUST REMOVAL big day tomorrow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I think I will do that when I replace the injectors. Right now most of the truck is on the floor. Want to put it together before I tear into the intake.

I think I've talked myself into replacing the water pump as well so further down the rabbit hole we go! Edit: can anyone explain to me where in the world the coolant drain plugs on the block are? Totally confused by the one close up picture in my Haynes manual.

Presuming Nissan didn’t change the design much for trucks in that era, there’s a rubber plug that the brake light switch makes contact with. It’s probably deteriorated, which means the brake switch has nothing to press against, leaving the circuit closed (brake lights on). But, I’d crawl under the dash, shine a light on the brake switch, and see if it’s missing the plug. This happened on my 98 Frontier just a few weeks ago, fully drained my battery as it sat for weeks undetected, and it was a pain to replace such a trivial and inexpensive piece.

Knocked out about 560 miles round trip on a long drive down to the Columbia River Gorge. Kicked it around Hood River before heading up into the mountains on the Washington side to camp for the night. Dropped down to 34*F overnight, ouch! It'll be nice when the weather warms up. Here you can see the high-tech branch deflection device I turned my fold out table into. The path to this campsite was covered in lots of low hanging branches and they were getting caught on my new bag. The rest of the car is definitely SCRATCH CITY, but that's what I got it for! And next to a modern Pathfinder- Got home and had to pressure wash the mud off! One of the puddles I splashed through must have had a bunch of horse manure in it...

3rd gen 4runner or another R50. I’ve had both and loved both

A 2" spring lift, when used with standard shocks, will reduce your downtravel by 2". This may not sound like much, but when you consider the standard shocks have only 8" of travel, and are usually setup for 4" uptravel & 4" downtravel, you are essentially reducing your downtravel to 2"... Therefore, if you want to actually use the vehicle offroad, I dare say it would be an issue. Fitting longer shocks absolutely transformed the capability of my vehicle offroad, as did removing the RSB. Maximising wheel travel is critical when one does not have lockers or traction control.

Stock should be 32” front and 33” rear, see post #171.