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i have both AVS rainguards i bought from ebay. i have been rocking these both trucks of mine for almost 4 yrs now and i havent had any problems with the paint. they are a bit pricey for $55 but all worked for me.

I didn’t really feel like trying to be an artist with that, would’ve been a little difficult to get that line nailed down. As for the wheels, there in my profile page. DX4 Gear Wheels, 15x8 3.75 BS. I got them before I realized fake beadlocks were a thing, but oh well. Sorry to thread hijack @Buttercup

Since you where able to black out everything before, try doing just the flares and leave the wheels so we can see!

Just for reference this is that picture unedited, so how it looks right now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, that looks sweet! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have a great point with those rims, I’ll take that into consideration. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve hauled river & sea kayaks for decades. All you really need is 2 bars & cam straps. I used to set my load bars at the farthest forward & rearward (the ROLA is close to that though I don’t think the curved bars are as good as straight). I’ve hauled two 16’ boats all over the country & on week long trips through rough AZ backcountry. I strongly recommend cam straps over ratchet straps. The key to cam straps is to stop after driving 10-15” & give them a tug to get the last slack out of them. They’ll hold immense weight in lumber & high resistance items as well. The problem with ratchet straps is their mechanical leverage can give you too much pull & damage your truck or what your carrying - they simply aren’t necessary. I’ve definitely seen people do damage with them.

I wouldn’t bother with those kayak mounts. The Rola rack you’ve got is great at hauling kayaks! Pretty much the only thing I ever use my rack for is carrying kayaks. The main reason I bought the rola rack is so I could put 3 of them on the roof at once. I’ve had two on the roof back and forth to glacier a few times and took 2 all the way to Canada as well, so you shouldn’t have any problems going anywhere with them up there. Just invest 5 bucks on one of those 4 packs of ratchet straps at Walmart and you’ll be good to go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds properly sporty, nice!

I agree, except they look even worse in black!

Sounds just like a 350z lol

I personally hats those stock pathy wheels!! Lol. I think they look better in black

That sounds like a good idea, my only thing is that I wouldn’t have many if not any other silver decals/trim on it. I’ll see how it is after the trim and tint for sure, I’m just currently skeptical. I’m glad you like the rims now, thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Only modifying ive personally done was the antifouler trick (and actually made spacers out of lug nut lock keys for a friends Escalade that was supposed to be a temporary fix 3 years ago...). Was always OBD2 stuff that didn't require visual emission check though, as long as the (properly working) engine light was off and was in spec for incomplete monitors=sticker time!

Finished bleeding the breaks after replacing front calipers, 3rd times a charm. I think I just had to slowly work all the air out, but now they're working good as new! LSV was a bit of a pain to reach, but not the hardest thing I've ever done.

Just a mock up of what I’ve been considering: Rhino lining the bumpers, fenders, and rocker panels. Thoughts? Also put some coloring on the window because I’m planning on getting tint as well. The rims I’d paint black until I can get some steelies and new tires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ignored my suspension some more. Oh and got my fog lights working.

I probably have one of the most badass pics with my r50 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a double check guys. I'm planning to order this Lokka for my 2002 QX4. Any issues I need to be aware of? Part number NIS-FO-293 on the Lokka site.

Thats the one. Just need a set of feeler guages to confirm some specs. I want to say the gap on the unit shouldn't be more than 0.014" but its been a while since I installed mine. Do you already have manual hubs?

@patbastard Many Nissan battery cables are harness assemblies, so if you need to replace part of it (like the terminal, or the red terminal block that's integrated into it), you're usually looking at replacing the entire thing. The part number for a 96-00 positive battery cable is 24077-1W200, and it's a fairly pricey part ($250+). You can confirm by going to either nissanpartsdeal.com or parts.nissanusa.com, keying in your VIN, and going to their Body Electrical > Wiring section. The diagrams will indicate the harnesses. A JY harness would be a cheaper route if choosing to replace the whole thing, at the risk of fussing with 20-yo harness connectors, though. I'm sure there are custom alternatives, but you'd probably invest as much in a parts and tools to make that work as you would a new OE harness, and would still need to bastardize your OE harness to retain all the various component harnesses.

Retro photoshoot while on a camping trip last weekend ?

I've known of the part, but haven't seen it. The OME strut has a tab with a nut on it instead of a slot for the line. I imagine it was just OME's way of squeezing a couple more bucks out of Nissan owners. A cable clamp and bolt sufficed. I can get you some OME vs. KYB pics if you'd like.

They are tough to compress. Unless a shop has a dedicated spring compressor the task can be really challenging. I had a shop compress my HD coils ( I thought OME Front HD coils were PN# 2608?) and they claimed it took more effort than most coils.

Lol! I ran around trails in stock form too when I first got my rig. Those were the most eye opening days. Got into trouble that I thought for sure would catch me but the Pathfinder just chugged along every time. The rest is history! Bottom line- Come on out and have fun!

No worries. There are a range of rigs and capabilities within the group and nobody is left behind or not considered in event choices. Its no fun if everyone cant enjoy it, right? Dont underestimate the stock Pathfinder! They are pretty capable and will surprise you.

There are also some state parks that allow OHVs (everything from motorcycles to quads to 4x4s). Usually just an admission fee or one-day pass needed, although some are called "Land Use Permits." From what I've seen, the rules are the same in most of the parks. Here's an example of the rules for the Prentice Cooper State Park, which is relatively close to me: http://www.tn.gov/agriculture/forestry/stateforest07.shtml Around here, if you were to try and hike or picnic on private property, you're very likely to be shot or arrested.

Hi, so I had an emergency and had to resort to using the spare key. Upon unlocking the car manually with the key, the doors unlocked but the alarm still went off after I opened the door. Luckily I also had a spare fob key that disarmed the alarm. Does anyone know how to manually unlock the doors/hatch AND open them without setting the alarm off? The alarm will shut off if manually locked. It will also continue to alarm and refuse to start even if you put the key in the ignition.