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Just starting to kit out my old QX4. Today, new 16x8 ProComp steelies, 255/70r16 Wild Peaks. Will be doing a lift, metal bumpers, etc soon. This is a car for my son to play around in. Good fun!

Hello. I just purchased this on 2/19/2019 on an impulse buy on my lunch break at work.

Not mine but thought I had to share Junkyard woes Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Before and after from OME MD to LR NRC 9449's with "32" inch tires and no spare tire in the rear so a little lighter in the rear. Also my driveway is not level Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

For some reason my photo above disappeared when I edited. Here it is again.

Some tune-up. I’ll see if I still have the old thing sitting around at home and I’ll cut it open with the dremel. Edit: Looks like I don’t have it anymore. That’s a bummer

Went joy riding to find a few waterfalls with the kids on this gloomy North GA day! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

I've ordered the following sleeves from an industrial store: https://www.mcmaster.com/ I based the measurements off of the Monroe website: http://www.monroe.com/en-US/e-catalog/37204 . Fingers crossed!

Works great. The bushings for the differential are not available in polyurethane. I machined these from oversized bushings. If you are interested I can machine another set.

Did this ever make it onto your truck?

Yup what@PathyDude17 said, OME HD (settled) and 1 inch spacer and thanks man! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Spray it down with on blaster and clamp a vice grip on it and spin it out

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/profile/39493-02_pathy/ OME HD (settled) and a 1” spacer

Seems 30-ish years is the lifespan of 2-door Pathfinder oil pressure senders. Not too bad. Unfortunately OEM replacements are impossible to find, and the aftermarket replacement options are inconsistent at best. When I bought my truck the pressure gauge would show zero at idle and barely register at cold start and when warm revving. Light never came on. The first replacement sender I got worked better, sort of, shooting up to 60 on cold starts but still zero at warm idle. At one point the oil light came on and stayed on, even tho the gauge still would show good pressure when driving. So after a mini heart attack, time for another sender and mechanical pressure test while I'm at it. Mechanical test showed excellent pressure from cold to hot. The new sender I put in now makes the gauge max out at 45 on cold starts, 15 at warm idle, and around 20-30 driving around. Still bugs me that it doesn't show true OP. Sometimes I play around with the idea of removing the sender and routing a mechanical pressure gauge to the dash.

I suspect a driveshaft issue rather than a problem with the transmission. Since they had the drive shafts out maybe there was a piece of crud on one of the mating surfaces when they put them back. Or maybe they used an impact and one of the mating surfaces is wonky.

I believe those are basically just resistors that like you said, make the ecu believe it is receiving colder air

They flex well. I love mine

Dang son [emoji7][emoji97] looking good Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Their website doesn’t say too much about what it actually does or hooks up to, but it does mention altering some sort of sensor signal. If I had to guess, they’re likely similar to the “Innovative Power Programmer” chip available for the Pathfinder through Amazon. I got one a long time ago, back when I first got the pathfinder, hoping to squeeze out a little more MPG, but it was worthless. When I did it, I didn’t know much about cars, so I didn’t know much about what it did. It said to splice into the wiring for the intake air temperature sensor, and the chip will tune from there. With the knowledge I have now, really all that chip was doing was telling the engine computer that it was colder outside than it is, making it dump more fuel. In turn, maybe you got a little more power, but it didn’t seem enough to really change mpg. I don’t think the pathfinder relies on the IAT as much as some other vehicles, but I could be wrong... I wonder if I still have it sitting around somewhere, because I could probably take it apart at work and analyze the electronics, see what its really doing with the voltage provided to it

I’d be pretty skeptical about putting something like that on when there’s no shop you can go back to if it causes you issues. You have no idea who performed the tune or what they tuned it to

Not sure what you’d actually get out of a $70 tune, I’m curious how well it will work if at all, if you decide to do it keep us updated, I hate that we have almost no support for engine mods for our trucks so if this works that would be awesome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know you said you’d prefer not to go this route but here’s a photo for reference if anyone else is interested. I removed the plastic liner and left the lid on top of the sub for protection Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gotta love when the driveway is taken over by pathfinders Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's some photos of the rig's transformation from when I got her to the police cruiser stage, then to a good trail rig to the present day Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I washed it the other day. All mud here in south Texas. At least I won't have dirt and mud in my eyes when I'm working under the truck. I'm keeping an eye out for a slow leak on the transfer case. I may have to smear sealant on the edges if it's seeping out still. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Yeah, that KMA story sounds like a freakin' nightmare. That's why these forums are such a value though. Saved a lot of other people from taking the same path. Those would be 80-90 taco/4-runner or s10/blazer bumper's made by ARB? Would you just have to mod the mounting points only or would you have to get into the main bumper part to make it work?