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That's a handy trick! Just make sure your neighbors don't see you holding a lighter under a spoon haha.

That might look even better in a TOTM frame......

Is your coolant low? Are you having to top it up frequently? If the head gasket is leaking coolant into the engine and making a mess, that coolant has to come from somewhere. If the coolant level is stable, then the schmoo is probably just from condensation on the cap. If it's not losing coolant, and the oil on the dipstick still looks like oil, I'd chalk it up to it being cold as hell outside and just keep an eye on it. One test I've seen online is to take an oil sample (could just be a few drips off the dipstick for all it matters) and heat it in a spoon or something with a lighter. If it's just oil, it'll get hot and runny and that's all. If it's got coolant in it, it should pop and spit as the moisture flashes to steam.

Little snow exploring and not being able to go over an obstacle kind of day Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I'm currently sitting at the Nissan dealership, not gonna lie, I don't really like being at dealerships. I'm looking to see if I can get the seat belts warrantied, and while I'm here they're also gonna look at the two recalls. Apparently one has to do with a filler or dipstick tube? The other I think might be the strut tower. After their multi-point I'm sure they'll tell me about my rear seal oil leak, probably some bad sway/track bar bushings, who knows what else. Normally I'd turn down a scratch-tastic wash, but the Nissan is my trail rig so why not!

I am in the process of scraping off the stickers my dad has on it. And then I will put it back on. Much easier to remove stickers in the warmth of the house. [emoji23]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://forums.nicoclub.com/topic563777.html If I’m understanding this correctly, then yes I think you’re right

@StPickens Love that the OEM deflector fits-why no fairing on the Rola? If it’s staying that way, make sure to plug those 4 fairing screw holes. The Rola is infamous for rusting on the inside (I actually shot spray paint down the inside of all my tubes).

Longer trips are supposed to get the engine warm enough to drive out the moisture. Are you losing coolant?

As RainGoat said earlier. I used 1 1/4” square tubing and 1 1/2” angle iron for my mounts. With 8 t-nuts holding it on the rails. I did cut the angle iron on one side to match the square tubing Height. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah gotcha, yeah you have the aluminum valve cover on the 01 right? Yeah right after is when they went plastic for the valve covers.

So this is a super old thread but i thought id comment here as ive seen these questions and issues a lot about these grounds, and people having o2 sensor issues. thes grounds are not here as an arbitrary location because it was easy. The o2 sensors ground themselves through the exhaust that they are screwed into....however, exhausts are usually suspended by rubber mounts to reduce vibration and noise. this severely nhbits the ability for good grounding. These straps are added to help the o2 sensors achieve good ground. This wont always cause a problem if they are not attached....but it is highly possible. Especailly in older vehicles or o2 sensors with a lot of mileage on them

I change my oil every 10,000 miles with generic full synthetic oil 5-30, and a Purolator PurOne or Mobil 1 oil filter. I'm at 260,000 miles and have a slight valve tick for a second or two at first morning start, but other than some oil leaks, the engine seems great. For a couple years I did 10k filter changes and 20k oil changes. But as the engine got older, I decided that was a bit long. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Lisle 35150 Window Belt Molding Remover. Amazon Prime $12 Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Hmm I remember that shorter trips can cause that because of moisture... can’t remember why exactly, maybe someone else would be able to help. Although your rips don’t sound short, usually it’s with stopping and starting with around the town driving

nice setup man!

Quite the resto thread!! Good luck on the project brother, it looks like you have a lot of dedication towards your Pathy. Definitely following this thread, excited to see what all you do to her!

So that last fix on the front windshield washer jets lasted about a year, until the washer spray would only come out about 3 inches on the window. I bought a new non-OEM Nissan style washer pump on Amazon and finally got it installed. Now the washer spray is strong, and gets close to the top of the window. The new pump didn't have the 2nd hose connection for the vent line, so I just left it disconnected on the front pump. The rear pump still works good enough for the rear window, since it faces down, and doesn't get significantly dirty.

Installed new hatch struts, such a nice upgrade and now I get around +1.5" of height to help reduce forehead damage! Decided to do the mud flap trim and removed the side steps. If I regret it I'll get some Rally Armor blanks and throw 'em on, but for now I kinda like the look. Truck is a trail rig so a little dirt damage'll be okay. Side steps might end up going back on since they're handy, I just wanted to see what they'd look like. Looks like it'd be easy to fab up some DIY sliders one day. Got handy with some wire brushes and a pressure washer, then hit a bunch of the rear with some Rustoleum style paint. Didn't really have any rust tbh, but with the new LR Defender springs in the rear I was tired of looking at a dirty axle! I've got my mind on tires now as the ones on it are kinda old. Based on my research and OEM rim style I'm thinking of going with 260/70R16 (30.3x10.2R16) as that seems to have worked for user erathge. Sound good?

mine hiding in the bushes....