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Haha. Sucker!

Boy.. that upper intake is a gigantic, huge, major pain, it’s enough to drive a man insane. I won’t rant.. but I am very displeased. Anyway, success! I was able to cut some threads into the hole left behind after I knocked the warped fitting out. The only tap I had at the shop was a 1/2 bspp which doesn’t have a taper but I used some high quality tape and I feel pretty confident it’ll hold up. Here’s pics :]

Merged with duplicate thread posted in incorrect sub-forum.

Thanks for the welcome! I know I don't have a Pathfinder anymore, however I think after sticking around so far and this new position it's safe to say I'll be here for the long haul, doing my best to help this community be as great as it has always been.

I don't know if it's the same noise, but my '93 makes a sort of groaning duck noise from the fuel tank area sometimes after I shut it off, or even sometimes when it's just sitting there on a hot day. There's a check valve in the evap line to the charcoal can that prevents the tank from draining fuel into the canister if you roll the truck, and I guess it takes a certain pressure to lift the ball inside and let fuel vapor through--so pressure builds until the valve opens, and then the valve kinda flutters and makes the groaning noise. I actually replaced the valve on my '95, thinking the noise meant there was something wrong with it, and the replacement made the same noise. I don't know the R50 evap system but wouldn't be surprised if Nissan used a similar valve.

Rainy day here in east Tennessee. Hope everyone has a safe and pleasant weekend. #r50obsessed #97JLR50 Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

mjotrainbrain volunteered to manage the Truck of the Month section 14 months ago and has done a great job handling it. Tonight I'm happy to announce that in addition to the TOTM section he has decided to become a full forum-wide Moderator as a member of the Mod Team! Please join me in welcoming him to his new position.

Ive had this happen to me on my 01. I have video of it that I'll dig up and post soon. Nothing to worry about. It did throw me off though as this is the only vehicle I've ever driven to do this.

An excellent choice & well deserved!! AND an excellent device to trap him here on our forum (devious chuckle!)

Haha [emoji38] I plan to keep mine until it dies. I had a buddy look at the red one on the bottom earlier today and it was perfect. No door dings and didn’t even have a lick of rust. Old couple who really cared about it, very impressed.

Bled the clutch. Only took about 3 hours -_- ducking annoying but works now and everything is golden. Gonna draw up some plans for the tire table.

I’m not sure he doesn’t even mention the lift in the description, the truck intrigues me because I saw it over the past summer and we waved at each other at the mall. The truck is extremely clean and well maintained.

I got scared for a second, thought that first one was yours! Didn't take long to notice the difference though. Nice looking vehicles for sure!

Thanks for the kind words! I do attempt to be helpful within my knowledge's bounds. I keep a closer eye on Craigslist than is probably healthy. It's always a possibility!

Yep, that sounds about like mine! Being concerned about it didn't change anything the last time and it doesn't seem to be hurting anything, so I'm not worried about it. It doesn't happen very often, either. Sometimes on a hot day I can shut a door and the vibration starts the valve making noise, which is amusing sometimes. Like, man, what am I feeding this thing? The only common fault I've read about with the R50 evap system is the carbon can barfing its guts into the purge valve, locking it up and throwing a trouble code. I don't think it's got anything to do with the noise, but here's a writeup on fixing that issue if you're curious about the system.

Saw these beauties for sale in my town

Congratulations!!!! You and I have talked about both your Q, 4Runner and more!! The information you give is very easy to understand for many of us who aren’t as knowledgeably inclined about cars and very detailed! Your build thread is a huge inspiration and glad to see that you’re gonna be sticking around for awhile. Hopefully we will see you back on here one day making a thread about a whole new pathfinder [emoji6]

I’m thinking it’s probably what Slartibartfast said then

Like this?

I bet what Slart said is more likely than what I’m about to say but from time to time when I shut off my engine after running the AC the low and high side will equalize and sometimes it makes a sound just like those little paper party blow horns that roll out like you’d see at a kids birthday party.

Normal for pressure to escape when removing gas cap. Remember the fuel system is a sealed system Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Looks like you did a pretty good job of it, hopefully your solution holds up for ya!

Thanks man. Yeah, deep down inside I figured it was the tranny. Just didn’t want to think about a rebuild right now. Thanks for the link, I’ll look into it ASAP. Luckily, it’s still very drivable. Just have to slip it into neutral whenever I come to a stop (it’s an automatic, in case that wasn’t clear already). The problems are minor, so hopefully I can drive on this tranny for a little while longer. Thanks again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congrats man that is so cool. He has definitely answered any of my questions promptly and very respectful that's another awesome thing about this form (respect) example: I don't go 4-wheeling but not one time has anyone on here put me down for not lifting my QX4 putting bigger tires on etc. I just love fixing them up making them look nice and enjoying them on a daily basis. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

I've heard of headlights popping bulbs like that. Makes sense that a tail light would do the same. I did a similar fix on a friend's Yota years ago, except we couldn't be arsed to remove the housing, so we just drilled a little hole through the lens to let the blinker fluid out. Hers didn't pop bulbs that I remember, but it sure looked funny following her at night watching the tail light slosh. As for how the water gets in, I had a headlight start fogging up a while ago, and found that the seam between the glass and the housing was leaking. I dried it out, covered the seam with JB weld, and put it back together. It hasn't fogged since! Nice!

Moved my dimmer switch to make room for light bar switch. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

HID too, quite bright and not a gross yellow color. Headlight housings, even without the HID ballast, for post facelift QX4's are EXPENSIVE though, so I suggest not drifting into a tree, even if I does lead to you getting an epic bumper. Not that I'm speaking from experience.

I wonder if Nissan still sells it? Sometimes they surprise me. I don’t find mine overly bright but I wouldn’t call it dim. I’ll take a pic for comparison.

From Diode Dynamics: Since automotive power is 12V, and LEDs generally run best on 2-4V, depending on color, you must use resistors or other components to drop the voltage to a level the LED can work with. This is why you cannot simply plug a basic LED directly into your socket, or connect it to a 12V battery. The manufacturer will determine what the nominal (normal) voltage is to run a specific LED, known as the "forward voltage." For example, a blue LED might be rated as 3.0-3.2V. Adjusting the _voltage_ lower or higher will change the brightness, but only because it also changes the _current_; higher voltage means the current will increase in an LED. After ensuring that you have the correct voltage available to the LED, the next step is determining current. This is measured in amperes, or amps, but since it's such a small amount of current, LEDs will be rated in milliamps (mA). The more current, the brighter the LED, but there is always a maximum "running" or "constant" current, which is the max you should run the LED at, and usually there is a max "peak" current, which is the highest current the LED can withstand before completely failing. That being said I would suggest that you have either 1) an increase in resistance within the circuit board (likely, considering the possible water intrusion , location and age of the brake light) or 2) a weak grounding point. We know that the voltage is good, so that leaves only either 1) increased resistance (from corrosion, vibration, bad wire, bad ground?) or 2) a reduction in supplied power (cracked wires, poor contact surfaces). Not that this is much help to you but without seeing the board in detail there is a lot that I can't rule out!

Search Rockford CV Boots for the recommended boot replacement on the CVs. I haven’t done it yet but it gets rave reviews. Rockfordcv.com Pt#166-21 & 166-23 (2 of each) per prior posters

It's not really that bad. If you've done a lot of car work it should be pretty straight forward. Just make sure you have a balancer puller. Also make sure you triple check the tooth count before reassembly. The first time I did one it took me 6 hours but now I can knock them out in like 2-3 lol.

After some trial and error it has been discovered that Land Rover coil springs are compatible with the R50s in the rear. There are several options, but these two part numbers below have successfully been installed in place of rear coil springs to provide lift and heavier load capacity. Both springs are options used on the defender 90. Part number NRC9447 175lb rate, 2.5 inches of lift with no cutting. Part number NRC9448, 225lb rate, 4 inches of lift uncut, 3 inches with one coil cut.