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Can I use the 'Report' function to report admins who seem to be slacking on their duties or are just too damned lazy to cleanout their inboxes?

I happened to stop by@TowndawgR50 garage when he was finishing your lower links. He can’t help but do great work. I watched him do the final detail work & they were beautiful.

Understood. I definitely don't mean to make it a popularity contest. I only know RainGoat personally, but both he and Slart consistently provide exceptional responses and genuine interest in keeping threads informative and on track. In lieu of nominations, just voicing a compliment. My main concern is that of the current admins and moderators, you might be the only active one (excluding mjotrainbrain with only TOTM moderation; I'm glad that he still hangs around). Simple thought is that more help helps everyone, but the forum testing was likely an exception. Hopefully I don't fall into the list of forum testing flakes...admittedly, I was hesitant to volunteer in the first place due to work travel at the time, and only volunteered late because it didn't seem like testing was even progressing. Any testing I could contribute was done during odd hours, no less. Otherwise, half of my day job is usually application/software testing. Noted. I doubt anything I've seen has warranted use of the Report function, at least not for being inappropriate. Perhaps miscategorized, at worst, but usually unworthy of PMs or mentions to be a real issue. It's just a matter of cleanliness and usefulness, I suppose to avoid becoming pass-through sites like NICO where useful content is drowned by dead-on-arrival conversations. Nonetheless, thanks for the consideration!

@RedPath88 Bumping this up again, since there have been a few recent posts that warrant clean-up. Is this open to discussion? If nominations are accepted, @RainGoat and @Slartibartfast have my vote.

ok... After talking with a retired electronics teacher, he basically told me to forget about this...He told me that not only we do not have the circuit map for it but it would require long time and money just to troubleshoot... So this (what I thought would be) easy fix project is transforming into a monster electronic project. Frankly I have too much on my plate and do not have the time right now to start this adventure, but I figured that this would be the perfect excuse to start learning electronics. Reading a little more about these VFD's, I learned that ghosting in a multiplexed vfd (like this one) is more likely caused by issues with the grid signal pulses. here's the official explanation here: " Another potential hazard in multiplexing is ghosting. This phenomena is caused by decaying grid signal pulses which are caused by stray capacitance between VFD electrodes and display drivers. If the grid timing overlaps the following grid and anode signal pulses, as shown in Fig.9(a), ghost illumination appears at un-addressed anode segments. To overcome this problem, an inter-digit blanking time should be added between grid pulse timings as shown in Fig.9(b). Generally the inter-digit blanking time should be approximately 10 to 50usec, but this can vary depending on the delay time. Delay time occurs when high value pull down resistor type drivers are used or when the drive circuit is situated away from the VFD. We recommend that an appropriate inter-digit blanking time is utilized on the grid signal only, rather than on both grid and anode signals." For those interested, this was taken from this document : https://www.noritake-elec.com/technology/general-technical-information/vfd-operation So for now, I am stopping this but in the near future , here's what I think will need to be done : 1) make a map of the board connections with all components 2) understand how it works in plain french (english) 3) somehow confirm the ghosting with some tool (possibly an oscilloscope of some sort) 4) insert an inter-blanking solution For now I will endure the display like it is, but I am excited at the idea of starting this project eventually when time is available. Over and out ! LOL Steve.

You can drop the diff easily by dropping the subframe and keeping the engine at normal height it just requires a steering shaft. No matter what I am doing with this vehicle the start/alternator/power steering pump and associated hoses and wires were not designed with easy service in mind and the engine compartment is packed like a disorganized orgy of wires and hoses. But the power...oh the power of the VQ. Knowing what I know now about how the VQ drives....VG what?

Sorry for such a delayed update to all those anticipating the weekends updates. Trust me I’ve been thinking daily on writing up a review and believe me.... I will get to it. Now for the excuses, joking but not really , I’ve been swamped during the holidays planning last minute notices with my college coaches and they have me finally set and squared on coming down now. Between all the back and forth interactions and then packing to now moving I haven’t had a moment that I’ve felt I could write up a decent update. As of the moment I’m driving down for 10 hours will a full truck (note I’m still raked even with a full load!) I’m hoping I’ll get the time to do something this weekend. To spoil it a bit without giving pics or build deets yet... hawairish and I installed and RD135 arb airlocker/ arb intensity ar32 spot lights/ custom static trailing arms fab by towndogR50! These things are bad ass and I’ll be doing a picture reference post on everything from the packaging to the install and 2400 mile use I’ve already put on them. Stopped my death wobble permanently and easily maintainable through easy access grease port zirc fittings. If you’ve read along so far on my thread you’ll know that I love my truck and only wanna put the best option out there on it. OEM trailing arms have been a repetitive issue for Me and hopefully my review will give anyone interested in a pair a good taste of what I mean when I talk about the quality and detail TowndogR50 and Hawairish put out into the market for us. Definitely know you guys would be stoked as I am to save yourself from oem replacements and permanently better your drive quality. Knowing they’ve had some prior adjustable arm installs I opted for the static variant since I don’t plan on doing any increased lift and they’re lighter, Their line of trailing arms are top notch, totally a must for the r50! Thanks to all for being patient I’ll get back to the write up asap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

See if you can still get them from Nissan. Aftermarket ones are complete garbage.

My opinion of my truck also changes depending on whether I'm driving it or working on it. Nice work on the diff drop! I saw a kit a while back that had bushings with the inner sleeves off-center. No welding, but if you didn't clock them perfectly, they'd be a huge PITA to get the bolts through. I like your way better. Consider preemptively replacing the bushings if you pull the brackets again, IIRC a couple guys have had weird front end rumbles turn out to be dead front diff bushings. Looking at how little rubber's actually in that bushing, I think I know why, too!

@hawairish I appreciate the nominations but ask that this not turn into a nom thread that may or may not be taken under consideration. I mean nothing negative by this, it is just that I have never been a fan of staff appointed by a method that so often turns out to be little more than a popularity contest. Again, considering the above, suggestions are appreciated, but volunteers are better, especially when they present a case for it themselves... just explain why they would like to be, how they can contribute etc.... and privately. This gives basic idea of they really understand what NPORA is, as a community. However, even then it's hot entirely reliable, to that I'll point to the most recent forum testing and upgrade as a prime example. Many volunteered, few responded and fewer still actually contributed.

Well..... It did not go as planned ! I tried to freeze the capacitors (and pretty much everywhere I could on the board) and was not successful at making the ghosting disappear (now that the truck is in the heated garage). I still went ahead and replace the 50V 33mf capacitor and it did not change anything.... I think I'm gonna need a professional in electronics for this one... i'll keep everyone informed if anything changes.. S.

1:1 solution of Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic Transmission Fluid & Lacquer Thinner

Apologies for digging up such an old post, here are some pictures of the original kit I built in 2005 and the two prototypes that were sent to Colorado. The pictures should give someone an idea of how the parts are made for duplication. As was said before, the hardest part is the strut spacers which require precise angles to achieve original geometry. Drop lift pics from 2005. I do not recommend the steering spacer block! http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/drop lift/ Here are pics of the two prototype lift kits I made and sent to Colorado (in 2009). http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/lift_kit/ This one has a good picture of the Honda steer u-joint that should be used: