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Pathfinder Pest Control. Tried a new way to kill off the moles who are destroying my yard....we’ll see if it works?

Finally finished welding up my low profile winch bumper last week! Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

The LSDs are clutch-based, but Nissan tapered the numbers as the model years progressed. These are the numbers I compiled from Factory Service Manuals when I was rebuilding them: At least for the rear diff (model H233B), there are no other LSD options, only three lockers. I rebuilt some using new OE parts a few years ago, but I was told I depleted the supply on some of the thicker discs and plates. However, buying a junkyard LSD from any of the above trucks will yield extra pieces to rebuild; although the parts will show some wear, it's the thickness of the pieces that'll matter here. I've been able to build them up to about 160-180 ft-lbs and that has performed well for off-roading, combined with a front mechanical locker. I've still got a spare LSD at 165 ft-lbs; rebuilt it from the parts I had, but never re-installed it because it was replaced by a locker. That's how I'd go with the 5MT: start there, and hold out until you find it. Personally, I've always been a stick guy; this truck is my first AT. I've appreciated it to some degree, but I wouldn't mind an MT again. So, hopefully this won't detract you from looking to buy an R50, but I've always termed the truck as being Nissan's redheaded stepchild, or otherwise bastard truck. I've named it so because it's very different from anything that it should be similar to. Much of the drivetrain is very similar to 89-04 Hardbody, WD21 Pathfinder, Frontier, and Xterra models, but not the same. The front diff (model R200A), for example, is unlike every R200A that ever existed on those trucks—ours is high-pinion/reverse cut, everything else low-pinion/standard cut. As such, we only have OE gearing options (4.363 or 4.636). The rear axle, fortunately, is basically the same as those trucks, and there's a lot of interchangeability (I run disc brakes from a WD21, for example). Transmission is actually of heavier duty than the others, except late Xterra, I believe. Same transfer cases (excluding the all-mode version, which wasn't used elsewhere). Suspension is totally different. VQ never appeared in any other truck until the stroked VQ40 showed up in MY05 Frontier, Xterra, and Pathfinder...and even that is a very different engine. There are some parts overlaps among VQ35's, but Nissan made a lot of subtle changes on them. Kings of the spare parts indeed! Starter placement, oil filter location, even all the intake plenums were basically unique by model. You don't have the overlap that existed for older Nissan car models. But at the same time, I'll acknowledge that I've seen very little in the way of engine performance mods on the R50 done by owners...it would likely be a heavy investment of time and money to research, as no one specifically lists the R50 as an application for performance parts. No headers, no cams, no turbo kits, nada. Fortunately, the data is there via the FSMs as a starting point to at least see if, dimensionally, parts might work. I use RockAuto for a LOT of parts cross-references, and of course Google image searches (I find that eBay listings for engines also have lots of pics). Parts.nissanusa.com and nissanpartsdeal.com also help greatly for parts cross-refs. That all said...the R50 is a great truck if you can get over how different it is from other Nissans, and can deal with basically no aftermarket support. The bastard qualities, in my opinion, are what make it perhaps the best truck Nissan has produced, including 05-18 trucks. Outside of the PV issues, the VQ35 had far more power and torque than any VG that was offered (including the supercharged one found in Frontiers and Xterras), and far less problems than the VQ40. High-pinion front diffs are better for off-road. Heavy duty transmission, standard. 5-link rear suspension. While I hate having McPherson struts up front, let's face it: the truck handles like a car and you'll come to appreciate that. The drivetrain is far more stouter than anything 05-18, including Titans (but maybe excluding the new Titan XD). The unibody has offered no less rigidity or flexibility than a framed truck. Better looking interior. Sorry for the long post, and perhaps my final recommendation: I'd look for 01-02 models. Outside the IACV/ECU issues and PV issues, which can be addressed by preventative maintenance, the other notable is that they were drive-by-cable; 03-04 was drive-by-wire...more sensors, more limp mode, more expensive throttle body. I also think you'll have more hope finding your 5MT in the earlier range.

Hi I'm currently shopping for an R50 with the VQ35 to use as my camping rig and possibly "2nd vehicle". I'm looking to spend around $3k, bottom market but they are out there. Just as a little background, I'm a car guy, a little less familiar with trucks. I have a daily driver, tow rig, track car, and a project car. Do my own everything, some of these I built from the ground up some I bought and put my touch on. All budget minded and took me about 15yr to collect. So while I can certainly shop on my own for a used r50 a little knowledge about the specifics of the platform would be very highly appreciated. My first big question(s) are what are the trouble areas for rust? Anything mechanically I should avoid? For instance IACV and ECM issues... I've seen a few ads needed these. IACV from Hitachi looks reasonable at $100. ECM repair off ebay? That an okay way to go? Should I look for one at a JY? Neither of these repairs scare me off on the face of it. How can I sort out if the rig has an LSD? Those little orange stickers the only way to tell? The power valves. Should I just assume all the VQ35s will need this inspected and repaired? Or was it just the MY2001? Besides the 5spd. Anybody swap the 5spd into an originally equipped auto? Is that the same trans used in the Z33? Thanks for taking the time to read through qll them questions. If you have a good lead on an R50 lmk lol.

Yes, 1" is fine-get an alignment after installation. 2" or more I would recommend springs. With a spring-only lift you should not encounter any issues with CV axles. There aren't any lift struts made for the R50.

Problems can occur at 2" and up. The issue is limited to some brands of CV axles while others seem to be OK. In my opinion anything above 1" warrants a spring lift instead of spacers becuase of the risk and wear factor. I ran 2" lift spacers at first and If i could do it all over again id have gone with springs. 3 Broken Cv's, fast wear on my tires and the lost time/hassle of resolving issues related to installing spacers just isnt worth the gain of the extra inch.

BACK ON THE ROAD! thanks for all the insight guys... turns out that it was the MAF the whole time?

No sweat, and I hear ya. I’ve had to drive that pattern more times than I care to admit to resolve an oh-crap-I’m-due-for-emissions situation.

Ha, I can be pretty wordy sometimes... Definitely consider your use for the truck. Even if you only occasionally find yourself on a trail, a moderate amount of lift from spacers or lift springs goes a long way. It's worth noting that one of our members have taken the Rubicon Trail in his with 2" of lift, 32" tires, and lockers (perhaps some more goodies, but that was the core). I've been wheeling with a local Nissan Xterra group for a couple years now, and with 32", 3" of lift, and lockers, I'd outdo them all the time despite having the smallest tires, lowest ground clearance, and basically smallest vehicle among 33"-35" tires, 4"-6" lifted Frontiers and Xterras. A lot of the guys thought my truck was stock. Rolling with them, I've seen bent tie rods, cracked coil spring buckets, busted CVs, busted ball joints...on their trucks. Only issues I've ever had, knock on wood, are two blowouts from some lousy Duratracs. The thing about the LSD is that it's better than an open diff, even when worn. If you can get it, do so. Also, Lokka makes a front lunchbox locker for very reasonable price and is a great option. I ran one in mine for a while before going to air; @TowndawgR50 is carrying its legacy. Lokka + LSD is a great combo. Yes, the RE4R01A AT in the VQ R50s were built to handle the added power from the 3.5L. Details here: Pre-MY05 trucks had the RE4R01A transmission, too, just not all to HD specs. Regarding bellhousings, the pattern on the block I believe is very similar, perhaps identical, but the lower block/pan appears to differs because of the starter location. On FX35 and 350Z/G35 VQs, I think I've seen two openings that resemble starter holes, one on each side of the engine, though I don't know why there are two holes. But for sure, that would suggest different belhousings. It's probably a moot discussion, but even if another VQ 5MT/6MT could match up, you'd not be able to get it mate with any of our t-cases. One issue is RWD cars vs 4WD truck. I'd guess that the bellhousing from a VQ40 truck would be a much closer match than one from a AWD/RWD VQ35 car/SUV, but all the MY05+ trucks have the all-mode transfer cases; part-time cases weren't an option. Performance-wise, damn near nothing. K&N cold air intake, that's about it! No cat-back exhausts, not even an ECU tuner (don't be fooled by the JET V-Force Plus unit...it's a highly glorified OBDII reader, at best). I think I've compared the header bolt pattern at some point, and I think our flange pattern is just mirrored from other VQ35/VQ40 options, but I want to say the block is pre-drilled for the other stud positions. So there's maybe hope there, but downstream from that...all custom. On the bright side, think of all the money you'll save by not trying to soup-up the performance!

You can get the FSM here: http://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html Specifically, check out this table on page EC-40 and the description on EC-41 here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1997_Pathfinder/ec.pdf If you look at the bottom of the table, it'll chart the engine state, speed, and duration to satisfy each test, if you were to do them all in one drive. Any time I've needed to 100% set readiness on my truck (particularly in my 98 Frontier, and not so much my Pathfinder), I've followed this full chart using a stopwatch/timer, open freeway, and some side roads (particularly for the 0-35-0mph tests). You'll see that the EVAP and EGR tests appear in Pattern 3, which requires the test I just mentioned. Usually it's addressed by simple stop-go driving, but I follow that one pretty closely (10s stopped, 10s accelerating to 30-35, 20s cruise at 30-35, decelerate to stop, repeat a few times). Also note the 53-60 mph range for Patterns 2 and 4...I've always found this to be the toughest test because I don't have many roads with 55-60 speed limits...65-75 here. I end up doing this at night on the freeway, driving (legally) below the speed limit in the right lane. Again, you can just do the parts you need to, but between the items you mentioned, looks like they could cover all 4 patterns.

Nice job man. I like the way it retains the stock bumper. I have a 98 QX and like keeping things sorta low key. Did you weld the bars to the frame or bolt them?

Mabye check your maf Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk