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Hi members am having having a problem sourcing TD27 ETi can I just use TD27 in my LR50

I’ve been wanting to lift my r50 and I want to buy a 1.5 inch strut spacer BUT I wanna know if it’s safe on the CVs and steering rods, and recommended brands

as the title says I have this weird surge feeling on decceleration in my 1995 wd21 autotragic, it seems to happen when the engine goes to idle after engine breaking and will do it almost right until full stop. my suspicion is that my tranny is trying to go to neutral and engine brake at the same time causing this fluctuation in rpm and almost clunking. the conditions for this happen when the car gets hot and fully heat soaked while its summer (didn't happen all winter or fall) and the longer the distance (possibly hotter the car?) it gets worse, I've owned it for about 3 years and it has never gone away or necessarily gotten worse. I understand I'm pretty piss poor at describing this problem and can get a video of it doing it if wanted. Thank you in advance

It sounds like when installing the injector you may have torn the o-ring or the injector itself is faulty. It isn't that uncommon for the aftermarket ones to be DOA if you went that route. I've had better luck with used factory ones.

How did it go?

Additionally- since the torsion bars are needing to be pulled, we are going to do boots and clips. I would like to change all the front mounting bolts over to SS as well. Are there any other wear components on the torsion bars that should be swapped while they're out? Should the rear adjustment bolts be swapped with all new hardware (locking nut, jam nuts, pivot)? The front bolt sizes according to AI are below: can anyone confirm these? The Main Large Bolt (1 per side): Thread Size: M12 x 1.25 (Fine Thread) Length: 35mm long Tool Size: 19mm socket/wrench The Smaller Side Bolts (2 per side): Thread Size: M10 x 1.25 (Fine Thread) Length: 25mm long Tool Size: 14mm socket/wrench

So like the title says! I recently bought a 94 pathfinder but I was told it was going to need some work! Short story - the car sat for 10+ years before being started up and also no gas was removed before starting. Myself not knowing any better, I did not question this and drove the car 20~ miles home. Fast forward, I was diagnosing a ecu code 51 (trying to) and assumed it to be a bad fuel injector. So I replaced said fuel injector, got the check engine light to turn off, but then the car started to run horribly after filling up the tank the next morning! Blowing out clouds of smoke, hesitating at stops, and backfiring from underneath the hood. I really hope I didn't destroy the engine by driving it home. Anyways, where should I even start? I have since then drained the old gas out and replaced it with new gas. As well as changed the spark plugs, fuel filter, PCV valve, and the oil. I also changed the spark plug wires because mine were coming apart every time I pulled one. OH AND I changed what I believed to be the faulty fuel injector but that didn't change anything. The smoke coming from the exhaust doesn't smell sweet at all, in fact it doesn't smell like anything and if I had to guess I would say it's water but something else is leading me to believe it's unburnt fuel but again, it has no smell so.... The car has never overheated on me and I haven't been able to drive it enough to know if it's losing coolant, plus it drives terribly right now. Thanks for any help professionals!

My RMS needs doing too! It used to be a slow leak. 1. No special tools needed AFAIK. You can get the '90 factory service manual from cardiagn.com. The AT section has step-by-step instructions for dropping the tranny (AT-124), and the EM section has the same for doing the rear main (EM-20). 2. The gasket in the aftermarket kits goes between the retainer plate (which holds the seal) and the back of the engine block. Unless you're going to try and fish the seal out without removing the retainer, you'll need the gasket as well. I think I've got the Fel-Pro kit on the shelf for mine, don't remember--and of course I can't vouch for it as I haven't installed it yet. 3. I assume you'll need the gaskets for the exhaust crossover as well. You may need hardware or more depending on how much the exhaust fights you on its way out. These also tend to break exhaust studs (holding the manifold to the head), though I don't know that having the trans out would make these any easier to access. I would check breather hoses and exhaust hangers while you're under there. Might as well change the fluid in the transfer case too. 4. The trans cooler is a good idea. There are a few old threads on here with size and type suggestions. I don't actually know what mine's rated for, I got it secondhand and it's not marked. I installed mine in series with the existing cooler in the rad, and also added a Magnefine external filter while I was at it. If you just drain and fill, you don't get the old fluid out of the torque converter, so I did a flush through the cooler lines instead. Take the lines off the existing cooler, put them in a bucket, run the engine until fluid stops coming out, add that much fresh fluid to the transmission, do it again, repeat until what comes out looks more or less like what goes in. The trans fluid level is a bit of a pain to set. It has to be warmed up when you check it. If you set it cold, it'll be too high once it warms up. Either measure what you take out and what you put in and make sure they're the same, or undershoot a little so you have room to top it up once it's warm and you can check it properly. I thought mine was underfilled, warmed it up, and had to drain a bit back out of it. The manual calls for Nissan-Matic D, which is still available. From what I've read, it's basically just Dexron III, so I used generic parts-store-brand Dex-Merc, which was cheap and available locally. 5. Torsion bars are also a pain to set up. If you have to drop the bars (and the service manual suggests you will), mark, measure, or at least take a picture of where the adjusters are set and how the bars are clocked vs the adjusters. Otherwise you'll be screwing around for a while trying to get your ride height back where it was. I used spray paint to mark the adjusters on a friend's S10 Blazer when we swapped the trans, and reassembly was as simple as matching up the paint marks. This thread recommends filling the gap between the RMS retainer and the pan with silicone to stop mud from getting in there and causing corrosion. Seems like a good idea. Good luck!

A quick short I did on what needs to be swapped

Hello Nissan Pathfinder Community! I am the proud 4th owner of a 1991 SE-V6 with an auto transmission with only 85k miles. The truck was incredibly well maintained by the previous owner. The only issue with her is that there is a slow rear main leak. I got a few quotes from shops near me but my friend and I have decided to tackle it ourselves. That being said, I want to get this post out there and pick all of your brains about this job, especially those of you who have done it before! I already picked up a transmission jack on facebook marketplace and we've got all the regular automotive tools... Are there any other unique or proprietary tools we will need? We've got the Haynes repair manual for the truck so we have a pretty good idea of the process for pulling the transmission and another friend of mine is doing a manual swap on his gen 1 so we were able to connect with him and pick his brain about pulling the auto and get a visual on his Pathfinder with the transmission out which was really helpful. OEM Nissan rear main seal part number appears to be 12279-AD205. (12279-AD205 - Seal 1984-2010 Nissan | Official Nissan Parts Store) Can anyone confirm this is correct and are there any other parts we will need for this job specifically? Would you recommend an OEM seal or has anyone had luck with aftermarket parts on Ebay or elsewhere? There appears to be some complete kits out there with other components. By the looks of it, the seal itself and then the triangular shaped paper gasket for the top of the bell housing: Victor Reinz JV538 Engine Rear Main Seal & Gasket Set for Z32 300ZX 12279-AD205 | eBay Fel-pro BS40628 Engine Crankshaft Rear Main Gasket Seal Kit | eBay While we have the transmission pulled, what other components should we swap that will be easily accessible or require minimal extra work to replace, specifically wear components or other seals/gaskets? We've got all of labor day weekend set aside for this so the more we can knock out in one transmission removal, the better. While the transmission is out, we are planning to put a cooler in since we will be draining the fluid and disconnecting the lines...which ATF cooler kit would you recommend and what ATF fluid should we put in? Any tips, tricks, or recommendations for tackling this? Any other helpful notes, pictures, or information you can lend? Thanks in advance and looking forward to everyone's input!

if you cared enough to try, the caliber bolt spacing measures the same if I remember correctly from 96-99 r50 they run 17MM bolt calibers and the 00-04 use the larger 19MM and larger rotors

Revisiting this for clarification, hindsight, and new wisdom: The inner collar on the RH shaft is for the oil seal installed at the differential. FSM says to not reuse the collar, but I see no compelling reason to not reuse it unless it is excessively worn where it makes contact with the seal. This oil seal is the primary seal, so if there's gear oil leaking on the RH side, this is the culprit. The outer collar on the shaft is for retaining the bearing. This collar MUST be destroyed off with a chisel or similar means in order to replace the bearing and/or seal. Don't attempt to press the collar off...you will destroy the "extension tube retainer" plate that the outer grease seal fits into. The bearing and collar are no longer available from Nissan, but aftermarket kits having part numbers with "RW114R" should include both a bearing and collar (the seal is separate). This seal also does not stop gear oil, it's just for greasing the shaft that rotates in the retainer plate. You can apply your flavor of RTV on things if you'd like.

Any suggestions for quality brake calipers/rotors? Brembo, akebono, and some others don't carry ones that fit. I'd like to get good ones, probably have to buy in units.

Was just exploring the forum to see if anyone had made a shelving unit in the trunk of any of these pathys and i stumbled across this post. Super unique and awesome build!

The FE section of the service manual has diagrams of the exhaust system, and where all the mounts are. There's one between the pipe before the cat (off a U bolt in the '90 manual, off the cat flange in the later manuals) and the transfer case, one at either end of the muffler, and one on the tailpipe behind the muffler. You can get the '90 manual from cardiagn.com, or at least that's where I got it. I had a similar rattle on mine. It worried me at first, because it only happened under certain load conditions, making me think a U joint or something was on its way out. I found it by rolling under the truck and just whacking the exhaust with my hand until I found something that rattled. IIRC it was that U bolt upstream of the cat that had worked itself loose. The nuts wouldn't move, and the only problem it was causing was the noise, so I tied it up with baling wire and called it good. Given the crossover pipe has been out recently on yours, I would look especially hard at the fasteners and heat shields on that guy.

I just had my transmission rebuilt. Now there is a rattle as a time during acceleration. I can almost narrow it down to the cross over pipe. Some say check the heat shields and others say check the exhaust pipe mounts. Where wold the mounts be located an how many? Not eh hangers, as I have been "instructed".

Damn! At least it's fixed, I guess. Hopefully it stays that way.

Hey thanks for the response. My dad and I couldn’t figure it out and took it to an electrical guy and he fixed it within a few hours. Said it was something behind the fuse box and I wasn’t there to pick it up so I have no clue. Cost me $300

Your CV will have two snap ring grooves: inner and outer. The Warn hubs used the outer groove. For this style, you put the snap ring on the inner groove, then install the hub.

Hey I got the same hubs recently and I’m super confused on how to install them. My warn hubs have a faceplate that pops off to give me access to the snap ring and the snap ring groove. This thing is all one solid hunk so I have no access to the snap ring grove! Do they actually come apart?

Thank you! haha. It's been a treat for sure. I was going to do a write up style post but didn't feel I had enough pictures to go with the information.

I love the sneaky bonnet hole! Cool conversion mate and thanks for sharing

Even if the dizzy is new it is common it goes out. My last one went because the little condenser on the side blew and wouldn't let enough voltage to the coil. I think no continuity or high resistance means it's bad or something like that. id have to check the old one. The fuel pump moves pretty slow so as for now assume its good if its flowing. If it doesn't change with the Maf unplug temp sensor and if that still won't work unplug the throttle. the NA VG33 ONLY requires MAF, Cam signal, Coolant temp, O2, and a throttle sensor to run properly. to a varying degree one of those can be non functional and it will still start no problem. every other sensor is OBD and emissions and doesn't affect tuning and engine performance. Unplug your primary O2 (post cats don't matter) and see how that runs. My bet is still the dizzy or its timing. it should idle even with both idles unplugged just not very well. EDIT: You won't even get a code for the dizzy if it's bad. I wasn't even getting misfire codes and the think could barely idle with out sounding like a Honda. sorry honda guys

Hello, First time posting here and just looking for some help with my 96 Pathfinder. The other day it randomly died at a stop light and turned back on right away, but continued to do that over an over again after a couple stops while driving. A bunch of lights came on the dash including A/T temp, oil, battery and brake light. Drove it the next day and did the same thing. This time I had a scanner plugged in and noticed the volts dropping from 14.5v to low 12's right before it would die. Later that day anytime I started it the car would run for a couple seconds and then die again. I thought it was the alternator so I bought new one and threw it in but the problem still occurs. I checked spark and fuel and they both seem to be fine(not 100% on the fuel though). Open the distributor cap and it seemed okay. Distributor is also pretty much brand new so I don't think there is anything wrong with it. Tried running it with MAF sensor unplugged but no luck. I'm guessing it some sort of air issue or maybe timing is off?? Just looking for advice on next troubleshooting ideas. Thank you for reading and any advice helps.