All Activity

Thank you so much for taking the time to not only research, but explain it in a way that isn't complicated! I'll report back once I am able to put your words into action. I just wanted you to know your kindness is greatly appreciated.

I had a look at the circuit diagram on EL-251, here. If we assume that the two faults have a common cause (not guaranteed, but does seem likely), then it's gotta be between the battery and the cruise switch on the steering wheel, because that's the only section where the cruise and horn circuits overlap. The clockspring has a wire in it that's shared between everything that's not working (horn and all cruise buttons except "main," which I assume is the one that works). Naturally you've already replaced that. The coil in the relay could also break both circuits if it was bad, but you've replaced that too. That leaves the switches/wiring inside the steering wheel, or the wiring between the battery and the wheel. I would start by testing fuse #52, 7.5A, which runs one of the horns (for some reason the two horns are fused separately), the horn relay (which means this one fuse will still take out both horns if it's bad), and also those three cruise buttons. Check with a test light (with the other end grounded) that you have power at both legs of the fuse. One leg means it's dead, neither means there's an issue between the fuse and the battery, both means it's OK. If there's power at the fuse, then it's a question of what you want to tear apart first. I'd be tempted to tear the wheel apart first and test that it's getting power at pin 1 (pin 12 of the clockspring), as labelled on EL-253. (I'd test this with a meter, because the resistance of the relay coil might be too much to work an incandescent test light.) If it's got power, I'd test the switch next. If it doesn't, then there's a break between the fuse and the switch. In that case I'd check the other side of the clockspring (to verify the clockspring's good), the connector on the light green/black wire shown on EL-253 (no idea if that connector is just that one wire, or a bunch of them, but it would be a convenient test point if you can find it--or a possible source of the problem if it's loose/damaged), and the horn relay connector. Once you know which two points you lose power between, you know what part of the harness to investigate. Hopefully it's not the harness. That's all I've got. Good luck with it and let us know when you figure it out!

02 manual Pathy, owned since 2016. Horn hasn't worked since maybe Nov? Sorry, i live in area where you can go months without using a horn, so I do not know when the problem began. I mostly have a short commute, so Nov is the first I noticed cruise wasn't working. I can turn the cruise control on and that is it. Horn isn't working at the same time. When I had the factory radio replaced, I did not pay for the adapter so the steering wheels due to budget restrictions at the time. I have swapped relays, put in new fuses (easiest fix), replaced the clock spring. What else are both Cruise and Horn interwind with? I checked to make sure the tabs on the clutch and gas pedals for the ASCD switch weren't broken. The ASCD click when I push on them. I don't see any issues with the horns themselves (but I didn't remove them. If I have more time tomorrow, I can try and figure out how to check if there is juice flow). It's obvious to me whatever is wrong, they are connected. So what else can I check that uses cruise and horn or do you think if there is a malfunction with one, it takes out the other, like the old style Christmas lights where the hole thing doesn't work until you find the dead lightbulb? Thanks in advance!!!

Yeah, it's not a big engine. I took apart a VG33 a while ago and was able to carry the block around pretty easily, and I'm not exactly corn-fed. I saw a guy on Youtube put an LS in a D21, and he ended up notching the crap out of the firewall to get it in there. Ecoburst could be entertaining, and Nissan got a four-pot in there, so surely there's room. Speaking of, there's also a kit to bolt a VW diesel to a Nissan gearbox.

Thanks dude. Wild how short the VG30's are. Well, I was initially thinking about dong a simple LS swap, but then I was considering an Ecoboost from a wreck, be it a 2.3 or possibly a 3.5 the 2.7 is WAY bigger than I anticipated. Brain storming really, it is in the hopper....

no dice on their site. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-sender-unit-fue~25060-2w610.html How ever with the nissan part number a nice used one came up on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/144813268307?_skw=25060-2W610&itmmeta=01KHRXR4H004RS68BN0X5A69M6&hash=item21b78b1d53:g:x-gAAOSwsRxjdQHp&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xAkQI%2FqM3Rw428piJZ5y3hwYKabyrqCnEwCd%2FG%2B3PnsBnmiT2UVFM%2BKYzCUJtV9QcoJBWHG8Y4HxLHWz%2BfDB6bdt3OtUhDpkqwGA6twhTNt8TBw6qMwv499cZV%2BOegJt4himmcRyf%2BcZhDZ3tXhq1999rMbjhZO9YByygFOBB79vujohmiYK1MzR0c0U%2FRJOHtMDBjwtshtS6VdoV7qtuTsf5IXWeX0Tt5b%2FtptJ47oN7ZbKDBjqENq8k3KeDbvoa9QuSebUpuvhsCaWdrqM7JsuEW0PM8orYqY6cDrc0J05Q%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9zI4J2OZw

2003

what year exactly https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1998-nissan-pathfinder/fuel_engine_control/fuel_tank.html?diagram=172_A002 They show 2, both kinda pricey

So I've tracked down my faulty gas gauge to the sending unit and replaced it recently with an amazon one (only one I could find outside of $600 dealership ones) and the replacement doesn't have a working fuel temp sensor and trips a check engine light. Anyone know where I could find a replacement besides amazon? I've tried a couple junkers around me but they're all out of r50 fuel tank parts.

Yeah, I've pulled the trans to do it before, it is a whole ordeal, plus I fitted a reconditioned trans a few years ago, not in a hurry to remove it again!

Gravity helps on the way out, that's for sure

After having done this 3 or 4 times on Xterra and WD21 I'd agree pulling the diff is much easier than wrestling the transmission back far enough, because I also had to pry the torsion bar xmember down or just remove them.

The diff sure ain't light! But neither is the gearbox.

Still waiting for my pistons and rods, but decided to lift the old lump out. Last time, I pulled the trans, this time I thought I'd try the method of removing the front diff. Way easier than dropping the trans, but I will be honest - I am getting too old for any of this

If the clutch pedal is anything like the clutch pedal on an R50 it might be caused be a worn clutch pedal assembly. I had a very similar issue on my R50 not to long ago. Turns out that the pin that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder had wallowed out the hole that it goes through and caused the clutch pedal to not be able to fully return to its resting place after the clutch pedal was released. Check out this short video for reference.

I got rid of my EGR a couple of years ago when I had the heads off of the engine. I noticed no change in performance. Unless your state requires it, I would remove it.

Gotta love not getting notifications of any response... I have a union in the event that I need to bypass it. I checked the spring, because I thought that was the culprit. Turns out, it's fine. Still has me scratching my head since it's not leaking fluid.... The only thing that makes any sense would be the master cylinder or the dampener. However, if it was the dampener, it would just take up more fluid and still function as normal.... I think I may have just convinced myself that it's the master cylinder One of these weekends when I have time, I'll start tearing into it. It's still drivable for a while, just won't ever go on a long trip with it any time soon because of this.

I haven't measured mine, but this guy says 22". Which engines are you looking at?

Okay, no luck in search. I KNOW it is here somewhere. How long are the VG30E's? Want to transplant a modern engine in one day, but cannot find this detail...

I agree, I am certain however that the EGR tubing is going to disintegrate when I remove the stock cracked manifolds....sigh.

That's insane the @!*% with ups... I can only hope this insanity stops soon. It's not good for either side of the border.

After 9 years of ownership it’s still my daily and I’m still in love! 274K purrs like a kitten.

96 SE

I have an old set of yokohama winter tires on lego wheels, that I use as "rollers" for my projects. The date code is from the year 2000... Of course these don't see the road.

I know a lot of people like to delete stuff like those lines but the truck just runs better when you don't try to engineer it yourself lol.