NovaPath Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Hello, I have about 2k that I can put into the pathfinder for "off road upgrades". My current list has me slightly over budget, so I'm trying to prioritize. -ome lift kit -kyb gr2 struts -bilstein shocks -4x4 designs skid plates -new rear trailing arms -new bump stops and strut bearings -Goodyear duratrac 245/75/16(these are what broke the budget, but they look so freaking cool, I use the truck as a dd on pavement 98% of the time so it really should be an all season, and these are the most aggressive looking!) My main goal is to be able to hang with some slightly miffed wranglers xjs 4runners etc on the trails, overland style driving(no huge mud or rocks). Truck is currently in good mechanical shape with 137k and totally original suspension(hence wanting to include new trailing arms) My current setup lands me Between 2.2-2.4k, which is slightly more than I'd like to spend. Can I cut corners anywhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 Meant modified not miffed....iPhone autocorrect sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 instead of the duratracs, look into Treadwright Guard Dogs, I installed mine in September and I'm not looking back, excellent off road and not to loud on. so far so good through the winter. after that I'd do what will keep the truck running first. Do a little Triage. If its not broke don't fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 I like the look of those treadwrights but I don't think they make them in the size I'm after 245/75/16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 keep your struts, coils and shocks, skip the ome lift kit and install spacers. This will save you $$$. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I like the look of those treadwrights but I don't think they make them in the size I'm after 245/75/16 I found some used lego 15" wheels cheep ( I got 4 for $50) and got the 31x10.5x15 they would be only about 1.7% difference in size so they don't throw the speedo off by much or the gearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jyeager Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 No need for new rear trailing arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJSnow Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) you might want to put manual hubs on it with any lift so you dont have problems with the cv joints and I dont think the trailing arms are necessary especially since you are trying to save money Edited January 7, 2015 by PJSnow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I'm taking donations... It won't make any difference to your truck though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Definitely skip the suspension parts and get Fleury's spacers. Best bang for buck hands down! My advice is to get new offset rims for the new tires. Plus the 2" spacers and you have a very nice mini build within the budget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Sounds like a lot of fun filled and action packed stuff to come. Rancho makes a good shock / strut and i think they may be alittle cheaper than the other ones. SFD over Suspension lift well definitely make a pretty big $ difference as was stated above. Guard dogs over durtracs sound cool too. If they dont have them in your size off the shelf you may be able to "order them" . Manual hubs are also good. I recommend Mile Marker hubs being they are half the price of Warn and i have had them installed for a year now and they work just fine. "only thing is you have to remove the studs and install the bolts that came with the kit". "may" have to do that with all of them, dont really know being as i only have MM and nothing else. I would probably go with a, ( if it isnt broke, dont fix it ) attitude in regards to some of the other things on the list. Maybe get a happy brush guard to go with your lift and tires instead. ;P Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 I just found a great deal online for the Toyo Open Country At II's, if I decide to go with those it will free up the budget some. My hesitation with simply using spacers is that the rear springs are sagging slightly already, and the struts and shocks already have 137k on them and I'm sure are not in that great of shape. Once I replace the shocks, struts, rear springs, and add on the spacers, we are splitting hairs between the cost for that and the full lift kit. I may just have to come off my wallet slightly, we will see. We had our first snowstorm of the year here in the mid-atlantic today, and my current tires performed horribly (worn michelin latitude X's), so this project's timeline may have just gotten bumped up. Do you really think I can get away with not replacing the rear trailing arms? I suppose I can replace them when they do go bad, but do people get much more life out of these than what I've already got? Are strut tops a necessity or do they hold up pretty well on these trucks? Thanks ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) Looks like a decent build. I've got 147k on my 01 with stock trailing arms, no NEED to replace them til they get sloppy (you'll feel the beginning of death wobble). May also want to look at the General Grabber AT2's, great (and pretty aggressive) all terrains, look good and very capable on and off road, with the exception of gooey mud. There also quite a bit less than the duratracs. Definitely do the shocks, struts and mounts, but get the oem mounts, at 137k your stock units are probably over a 100k past their prime. Edited January 7, 2015 by 01Pathmaker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vancity_R50 Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I just found a great deal online for the Toyo Open Country At II's, if I decide to go with those it will free up the budget some. My hesitation with simply using spacers is that the rear springs are sagging slightly already, and the struts and shocks already have 137k on them and I'm sure are not in that great of shape. Once I replace the shocks, struts, rear springs, and add on the spacers, we are splitting hairs between the cost for that and the full lift kit. I may just have to come off my wallet slightly, we will see. We had our first snowstorm of the year here in the mid-atlantic today, and my current tires performed horribly (worn michelin latitude X's), so this project's timeline may have just gotten bumped up. Do you really think I can get away with not replacing the rear trailing arms? I suppose I can replace them when they do go bad, but do people get much more life out of these than what I've already got? Are strut tops a necessity or do they hold up pretty well on these trucks? Thanks ! My personal experience with the Toyo Open Country's was NOT good. Ok in dry road conditions but found them almost useless in heavy rain or snow. Just my 2cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megaton Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I got about 280k out of my trailing arms. Wait on replacing them. When you do , go with polyuethane bushings upper, lower, and panhard rod. That's a permanent cure for the death wobble. Best regards, Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megaton Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I got about 280k out of my trailing arms. Wait on replacing them. When you do , go with polyuethane bushings upper, lower, and panhard rod. That's a permanent cure for the death wobble. Best regards, Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 I am going with the general grabber at2's, truck developed a nasty exhaust rattle, belt or pulley noise, and is due for an oil change. I'm putting it in the shop for the week I'm going out of town to get those items done, we will see what kind of funds are left at the end! Going with 245/75/16 so there may be some rubbing to Sort initially... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Get split trailing arm bushings in the rear, to make them easier to install and save some on the arms themselves. Replace suspension components as they go out, or indicate as such. These can be safety items, so don't skimp, but you don't necessarily have to replace them prematurely if they seem to be in good shape. Lifting depends if you like the stock ride, if so then go for spacers. If you don't or want extra load capacity, I cannot recommend the OME springs enough. Them, coupled with shocks and struts will give you an extremely nice ride over rough terrain, and highways alike. Tires wise, look into the Cooper Discoverer AT3s, I just installed them and love them. They were substantially cheaper than the duratracs as an added bonus too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I would skip the shocks and struts, unless you don't like the way your truck handles now because those suspension parts are worn out and need to be replaced anyway. You can just get away with replacing the springs. I would also postpone the skid plate unless your current splash guard is toast. Choose careful lines where you don't put big obstacles directly under your truck, instead putting your tires on them. Here's the order I would choose (provided existing suspension parts are not totally shot): -ome lift kit -good AT tires (with at least 31" diameter) -new rear trailing arms (but ONLY if you have the death wobble, otherwise this is lowest priority) -remove rear sway bar (it hardly makes any difference in handling) -bilstein shocks that are 2" longer than stock, but have similar compression. 255/70 valving works very well. -4x4 designs skid plates -kyb gr2 struts -new bump stops and strut bearings 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Just got the pathfinder back after having the 245/75/16 grabber at2s put on, and was also hit with some unexpected repair costs which have slightly derailed my budget and plans. That being said, I think I have a budget friendly work around that I'm curious to hear feedback on. I would replace the rear springs which are sagging with the 30.00 pair from moog, replace the rear shocks with the bilstein 5100 series, and install a 2" spacer lift kit all around. What is the down side to this? It is certainly much cheaper and less labor intensive for me to diy than the full emu kit. As an added plus it leaves enough room in the budget still for skid plates, front ball joints, and front stabilizer links. Thoughts?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Sounds like a good plan to me. You'll be happy with your tire choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 Well the build has taken a slightly different direction. I was able to source an A.C. lift kit and kyb front struts used, so that has freed up the budget considerably. I thought I'd have to back off but now it seems like it is going to be in full force. 2" lift, bilstein rear shocks, undercarriage armor, and new ball joints and sway links up front. The only thing i'm on the fence about now is if I should go with some mile marker manual hubs, my gas is paid for from my work for 95% of my driving so fuel economy isn't really an issue, and I also really like being able to put it into 4wd at any time I like without getting out of the truck. The only reason I'd do it is to save wear and tear on the front cv joints, what are NPORA's thoughts on this? Unrelated: I got to try out the tires today in some sticky mud(I know, they aren't a mud tire...), and even with the tires sunk in soft mud all the way to the rim, I was still able to get out. I know for a fact I would have been SOL with the old all seasons.... Thanks for the input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 I have MM manual hubs and have zero complaints. Easy to install, perform flawlessly and they look good In the winter I leave them locked 24/7 as I need to shift in an out if 4x4. In the summer they are unlocked unless I hit any trickier trails or mud. IMO, anything that helps prevent unnecessary wear and tear is a good thing! My vote goes to, DO IT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 ^Ditto! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaPath Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Can anyone with an 01+(the VQ35 engine) tell me if the mile marker hubs listed for the 96-01 will work? The sites typically say with the 3.0-3.3 engine, however as we all know the 01 is the 3.5 engine. I just want to be sure! Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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