PJSnow

Thanks guys so i went to 2 body shops and they basically said the same thing. To fix the door it would be about a grand and they both recommended looking in junk yards. So i called up a few junk yards and the general price i got was $250 but nobody had the color now (its the brown/grey stone color). and i am a bit worried about swapping the doors if i ever get it. Im not great with electronics and ive heard getting all the gaps even is a nightmare. The body shop said it would be $150-$200 after i get them the door. So when I save up enough i guess its going to be somewhere around $500 hopefully unless i attempt to get the door on there myself. but one quick question. since mine is an SE with the black side mirrors, so i have to get another SE door or can the LE color matched mirror be taken off and switched with my black one?

Hey guys, so I got hit and just wanted some suggestions to see what you guys think I should do. The backstory, I parked it right in front of the house on the street for about 36 hrs and i come out to see the driver's door is bent in. At first it was difficult to open but now it opens and closes fine (i guess it popped out a bit). But didn't get a note or anything so I have no idea who did it. Never had to do body work before so Im new to all this. From where i stand i see 3 options: 1 I get a body shop to get it looking new again but for probably a pretty penny 2 I try to find a color match door from a junk yard (how hard to replace doors?) 3 I leave it money is pretty tight right now but Im really frustrated. here are some pictures. let me know what you guys think I also have the stock decal across the whole side. So if i get a door from the junk yard then ill have one panel without the decal and the rest with, or is that all removable anyway? And yes the paint is chipping in the spot where the metal "pinched"

So this is the closes post to my situation. This past weekend we had snow and i had to break quick and ABS went off. It worked great and i drove away but the ABS light stayed on for the rest of the trip. When i started it up later the light was gone so im not sure what happened but should i be good now or is something going on?

you might want to put manual hubs on it with any lift so you dont have problems with the cv joints and I dont think the trailing arms are necessary especially since you are trying to save money

i just put on the warn hubs this summer. you think they had something to do with it?

So i have been really busy lately with engineering classes so i couldnt do anything about the code but yesterday i noticed that it was gone! im not sure if the cold had anything to do with it but now i will pass inspection so im happy Thanks for all the help guys! ill probably do the canister and valve in the near future when i get some money.

thanks guys so im going to look for a place that can road force balance my tires

So I tried searching this but couldnt get the answer. So a few months ago i started getting a slight vibration in my steering wheel at bout 70-80 mph. I didnt think much of it because i was going to get my tires rotated soon and thought it would go away. Now the vibration has intensified. Now it starts at 60mph and gets really bad at about 65mph. at 70 its not as bad but i still feel it till 80. When it is really bad the steering wheel moves side to side about 1/2 inch really quick. almost feels like i am constantly going over potholes at those speeds. Anyone have any ideas what it could be? i heard it might be the metal strip in the tire got moved and is on top of another metal strip? i also heard the bearing might be bad. But any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks guys!

i have the post face lift pathy, vq35de. are the part numbers the same for the canister and valve?

so ill smoke the system but if i do have to replace them can i just get a yes or no if this is the right part? it is a little cheaper but i have no idea what it looks like so just making sure. and i cant seem to find the canister for vq35de or is it the same as the 33? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Vapor-Canister-Vent-Valve-Replaces-OE-14935-54U00-14935-54U05-/231152561220?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d1c42c44

So i just got the ses light, borrowed my buddys scanner, and P1441 shows up. I looked it up and eliminated the possibility of the gas cap. So i guess im stuck with the evap system. someone told me to smoke the system to find the "very small leak" what do you guys think is the best thing to do?

when you drive the pathfinder hard nothing goes wrong but as soon as you kick in grandma gear the service engine soon light pops on

the glass seems to have a lot more lines/ridges (cant remember the technical name for it) than the plastic. I think GePa might be right that it has to do with the bulb. but was the bulb an option from the factory?

i think the scion frs and subaru brz will be classics in 20 yrs. its the first affordable rwd sports car in a while and people are probably going to want to get their hands on it later too

Well I just thought i'd let everyone know about my experience with safelite today. it may turn out to be a bit long but basically I DO NOT RECOMMEND THEM! It was just not a good experience. so now the back story. A couple of months ago a pebble from a truck hit my windshield and it had a small chip. i didnt think anything of it but about a week or two later it spread into a 7 inch crack and over a month became about a foot long. Started calling up places and they said i needed to replace the whole window. Basically the moral of this story is repair any chips you have ASAP! so i started doing research on local automotive window shops and decided on safelite since they have a lifetime warranty. Made the appointment almost a week ago and i take it in today. first impression was the facility was clean but when i started talking to a worker, i realized they are spoon fed what to say. Well i sign the paperwork, tell me it will be the exact same windshield, and they tell me to take a seat so i do. Now everyone up to this point i see is wearing a safelite polo shirt. next think i know i see some guy in a plain white t shirt get in my car (i almost flipped out) but the lady at the front desk told me he was a "technician". well he takes it to the back where i dont see anything and 2 hrs later he brings it back. i pay the bill then walk outside to see the job... First thing i notice is the 5 inch strip of tint on the top of the windshield which was not on the original but they say that was all they have for the pathfinder. well i couldnt do anything about that so i got in and drove away. about 3 blocks later i notice something missing that i had hanging from the ezpass so i went back. the "technician" just happened to have it in his pocket when i told him. what a coincidence . at this point i decided to ask about the antenna in the center of the windshield (i noticed it was not complete, aka it was not a continues line, it had brakes/chips in it) the manager came out and said there is no static in the radio so its fine. I was fed up at this point so i left. When i got home i took a walk around the car and saw glue on my fenders, the am external antenna was bent, and they left the inside a mess. So unsatisfied i called the 800 safelite number and they told me to take the pathfinder to another safelite and they will put in another windshield under warranty for the defective internal antenna tomorrow. i also just found out safelite makes their own glass which is not the oem replacement i was expecting. this explains the tint strip and all the embedded markings in the window (all of which were not in the old windshield and are annoying to look at). i am just really unpleased with their workmanship and it is a waste of my time to go back tomorrow. Sorry if it sounds a little like a rant but i just want to warn you all and anyone thinking about going to safelite to replace a window. Im not saying your experience will be the same as mine but just letting you all know.

you guys might like this http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-calculator/

alright i guess its normal then Thanks

the warn hubs just came in today. opened them up and tried turning the dial to lock it but it seems very hard to turn. did anybody else experience this? does it get easier to turn when its on the pathfinder? both of them seem hard to turn. i seems like they are supposed to click into like a groove in the locked or opened position but turning between the groove it seems more difficult than it should.

i just came back from a drive and i was thinking the exact same thing! the hood and both fenders were really really hot, probably partly because i was pushing just over 80 on an empty highway for a few miles but still it seemed extremely hot. and it was dark out at 75F but i guess they like to be hot haha

here is a list from nicoclub with all the bulb sizes and a guide http://forums.nicoclub.com/topic563777.html?sid=f080028a3bd97ccc295e5d8782aab584 hope it helps

awesome thanks! appreciate it!!

ok cool! which company did you go with? can i get the part# ? thanks

which deflectors did you go with? it looks like the in-channel type. and did it disable your automatic windows?

So I just ordered the Warn hubs off amazon. I saw a really good post a while ago with great pics of the warn install but i cant seem to find it anymore. anybody know what im talking about/can find it?

has anyone tried the high heat paint on the exhaust system to stop it from rusting?