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Everything posted by Megaton

  1. I know exactly where your coming from. My 97 has 336k on it now. It's getting hard to justify spending the money to fix all the little problems that add up to one big problem... it's just worn out and rusting away. Health reasons don't allow me to do my own work on it and money reasons won't allow me to pay to get it done. It's kind of a sad situation.
  2. Look into General Grabber AT2. I run 31x10.50x15 LTs. They have been a great all round tire for me. A couple of winters ago we had 2+ feet of snow and I had no problem with it. I even pulled out a couple of stuck side-by-sides which left the drivers a little impressed. I think the Grabbers are a little cheaper than the KOs but they might not be as good of tire. I'm just going by my experiences.
  3. Anything new on the front bumper brackets? I'm interested in the rear bumper also maybe with a swing out tire carrier on the bumper?
  4. That's about the same off set I have. I added a set of Pacer rubber fender flares that just covers the "stick-out". They work well and look pretty good too.
  5. I replaced all the rubber parts and added the trim packers (they are steel). With all of that sandwiched in there the bolts on part 54322 are a little short. I got away ( so far ) without replacing the bolts. They were already installed before I realised it. The bolts don't quite stick out through the nuts when mounted. If I had realized it, I would have replaced them. They can be pressed out and replaced with the same type bolts only a little longer.
  6. I used the same setup you're using. I bought all the parts and made a complete assembly so the old strut/spring assembly could be pulled out and the new one put in. You can reuse all the old metal parts as long as they aren't bent or rusted to bad. Definitely replace the strut bearings with oem. If you use the trim packers you will need to use longer mounting bolts. The trim packers are just spacers. Press out the old bolts and replace with longer ones. The bump stops and bellows did not come with my struts and had to be purchased separately. They may come with yours. I hope this helps you.
  7. The steering rack is still moving a tiny bit. I can hear creaking when I turn the steering wheel. The movement of the rack is unnoticeable but you can hear it. The steering wheel was turning from the 11 o'clock to the 1 o'clock positions before the tires would move. It's tight now. Time will tell.
  8. In the last two years I have gone through two sets of Dorman bushings due to oil contamination. Dorman says the bushings are polyurethane and oil shouldn't hurt them but they won't honor their warranty because they were used on an off road vehicle. So I'm trying Ricochet polyurethane technologies part no. N8 N9-90 BLU. Anyone else use these? I will give periodic updates. By the way, I think I got the oil leak under control.
  9. You might want to check the drains also. They are located in the front corners of the sun roof recess and drain down the A pillars. Just run a stiff wire or equivalent down the drain to open it. Test it by pouring a little water into the drain and watching to see if it runs out down at the rear of the front fender. I had a similar problem and after I cleaned the drains the leak went away.
  10. I don't have any photos but the cut off line is a little ragged but acceptable. Apparently the glare isn't too bad because I don't get " bright lighted" by opposing traffic. As Rosie said we have faceted glass lenses that focuses the light. I don't know much about how they will work with clear unfaceted lenses.
  11. I got a set from Kensun at Amazon. They are Chinese but I've never had any problems with them in the five or so years I've had them. It includes everything you need to install. A basic understanding of wiring helps. I've had no problems with opposing traffic either. I really like the difference they make in inclimate weather.
  12. This is great! I've been waiting for something like this for a long time. I bought a JCR DIY off-road bumper some time ago and haven't done anything with it yet. I would pay for a blueprint of this bracket. I know that's kind of old fashioned but it would work for me.
  13. FIDO. F@#k it drive on.
  14. Sorry I was talking about front bumpers also. I would like to know if there are any rear bumpers DIY or otherwise out there that would work for an R50. So far custom built is all I've seen. I don't have the skills to fab one or the money to have it done.
  15. I bought a JCR off-road XJ DIY bumper. I haven't assembled it yet because of time restraints. My reasoning behind the purchase is,rather than buying an expensive bumper and cutting it up to make it work, I can modify it as I assemble it. There are some good videos on YouTube on how to build it for the XJ and make some mods. I just need someone to build the mounting brackets because my welder won't weld the heavier steel needed to make them.
  16. BOHICA . Bend over here it comes again. Usually in reference to visiting a dealership or garage.
  17. I put 31x10.50s on my stock sagging suspension but I mounted them on wheels with a 3.75 backspace. There was minimal rubbing on the plastic splash guards and I could live with that. There is no rubbing after the lift. There is a little tire poking out of the fender well but some Pacer fender flares covered that.
  18. The site rgallant posted is where I got mine. One of the p/ns for the struts is for the left and one is for the right, and of course you'll need two shocks. The R50 has coils at all four corners. Get new Nissan strut bearings also. Unless the other suspension components are bent, broken,rusted badly or dry rotted can be reused. A competent tire shop should be able to do the work for you. Oh, and after the lift you might need camber adjustment bolts for a proper alignment.
  19. Hello and welcome to NPORA. I'll try to answer some of your questions. Your rear differential should have a sticker on it telling if it's a LSD. I recently installed an OME lift using their HD front springs and MD rear. I used KYB GR-2 front struts (p/n 335015 and 335016) and Bilstein 5100 series shocks(p/n 24-185509). If you use the "trim packers" as suggested you'll need to replace the bolts on the top mounting plate with longer ones. I made that mistake and I'm eventually going to have to replace them. You might also check your sway bar bushings, end links and steering rack bushings if you have any oil leaks at all. Those bushings catch the oil and it deteriorates them. Replace with polyurethane if you can. I hope this helps.
  20. Useful information. Now for Plan "B". As soon as I come up with one. Thanks everyone.
  21. I, like a lot of you, have rusty rocker panels. I found what might be a cheap repair on YouTube. Expanding foam is used to backfill the area then tiger hair or equivalent is used for the final contouring. My question is, if the rocker is sealed up with foam will it cause drainage problems and start rust in a different area? I plan on coating the inside of the rocker with an internal frame spray to convert the rust and prevent more. I also have rust spots around the rear wheel wells that this might work on. Any feedback will be appreciated.
  22. I saw a YouTube video from a German company called spaccers.com that has strut extensions. I don't think I would use them personally. It seems to me they would allow the suspension to droop to far and bind the cv joints. It would help eliminate top out but that doesn't seem to be as hard on the struts as over extension is on the cv's.
  23. Update on the R50 snorkel. The one I had on my wishlist is no longer available. I did another search and the only thing I came up with is the ARB safari snorkel. So much for a cheap factory made snorkel. I guess I'll see about making an exhaust pipe one and buying a pre-made hood.
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