Jump to content

Megaton

Members
  • Posts

    104
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by Megaton

  1. I've checked my HID's in an oncoming situation and found them to be no more annoying than some factory HID's. The glare isn't bad. Yes they would be better in a projector housing,but we all know how difficult it is to change over.If I thought they were unsafe I wouldn't use them. My experience with them,so far has been good.
  2. In my post above I said I had a 97 XE. My mistake, I have an LE. There's a bit of a difference between the stock XE and LE wheels. Sorry.
  3. I recently installed 31x10.5r15 General Grabbers AT 2's on my 97 XE. I used 15x7 wheels with a 3.75 backspace. General recommends a 7in wide wheel minimum for that size. I have minimal rubbing on the front plastic splash guards. I love this setup but my only concern is that they stick out about 2 inches from the fender and I wonder if they will rub the fender at full suspension compression.
  4. 01Pathmaker,I thought of the same thing but there isn't enough clearance inside the housing of a 97 for a 1157 bulb. The LED arrays are shorter but I will have to check for clearance. The twist in bulb holders are much larger for the turn signal than for the marker so that hole would have to be enlarged. Thanks everyone for the input.
  5. I know some of you guys with winch bumpers have relocated your turn indicators to the marker light. Could you tell me how it's done? The lenses on mine are cracking and getting water and debris in them. I plan on a winch bumper in the future so I need to do it anyway. Thanks for the help.
  6. Yeah,we have the same problem with R50's. I don't know about modifying a hardbody bumper, but if I was close to TAG I might try them. I would get it unpainted so I could check the welds. I would also make sure that the mounting brackets tied into the subframe instead of just attaching to the unibody crush cans. The last one I saw for a R50 on this forum only mounted to the crush cans which made it almost useless for winching. If you're not going to use a winch it might be Ok,but with me, overkill is under rated. I think TAG would be Ok if you watch them. Good luck!
  7. You don't have torsion bars on that model,but you might want to change the bushings in the rear links and panhard bar. If you don't have the"death wobble" at highway speeds they're probably OK,but it's a good upgrade. I used poly bushings and I love them.
  8. One other note. EMT is galvanized. When welding something galvanized you must remove the coating with muriatic acid or the fumes generated can be deadly! There are videos on YouTube that show how to do this. I used a length of 1 1/2 in PVC capped off on one end filled with acid to dip in in. I used the same filled with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid on the part. After the coating is removed the part should be primed pretty soon or it will rust.
  9. You'll need about 100 feet of emt conduit(whatever diameter you choose),8 90 degree elbows,and 16 connectors(I bought the contractor pack of 25 cheaper than 16 individual connectors). I bought a tubing notcher but you can smash the ends flat in a vice if you want. It's up to you how big you want it. Of course,the bigger you make it the more tubing you'll need. I'll try to post photos when I learn how to do it(I'm an old dog so it's hard for me to learn new tricks). Get it how you want it then weld it together. That's were I am now.I just haven't had time lately.
  10. Well duh (on my part). Since I made my safari rack out of 3/4 in electrical metallic conduit,your solution will work perfectly. I've been trying to think of a way to use the existing track to mount it. I guess the answer was so simple it plum evaded me. Thanks AkPrecision. I just love this forum!
  11. I just came from the Bilstein website and they say p/n 25-186307 is no longer valid.As a matter of fact, they say they are not making any shocks for the 97.Curious.
  12. Can anyone tell me if KYB p/n 335015 and 335016 (struts) are correct for a 2 in lift? I wanted to go with an OME suspension but it's cost prohibitive. Thanks.
  13. I think it's a good and cheap start. My torque converter was shuttering when it locked up and sometimes it didn't want to go into high gear. The Seafoam corrected those problems.
  14. I think it's worth keeping.Is it automatic or manual? If an automatic, change the fluid and add some Seafoam for A/T. That might be all it takes to fix.
  15. I'm kinda a stickler about securing items inside a vehicle. After 18 years of law enforcement I've seen some pretty ordinary objects become deadly projectiles. In an accident I was involved in, a screwdriver from my toolbox I had all the way in the back was stuck in the dashboard(This was the demise of my 95 Pathfinder). I'm going to mount my Hi-Lift and pioneer tools to my roof basket and the other recovery gear in an ammo can that is bolted down. I'm working on plans for a drawer storage unit for the back. I guess I'm kind of ocd on this stuff. Just some thoughts on how to be a little safer.
  16. Thanks! Maybe I can move up in the sucking order.
  17. I know I'm sucking hind tit on this one, but is Path15 and the group buy still good on this?
  18. No need to apologize.I guess we've all been punch from overwork at one time or another. If you ever want to get rid of a WD21 clutch pack let me know. I have been looking around here and they seem to be scarce at the moment. BTW, Duke 90's ride looks great. Great job guys!
  19. Hawairish,you have come through again! Great info. I think I'll go with the Lokka up front and,since the stock breakaway of the WD21 is acceptable to me,change my ring and side gears to a WD21 LSD for the rear. It seems like the most economical and easiest way to go.Again,thank you so much.
  20. Hawairish,I checked out your "differential adventure" and your efforts are appreciated more than you know.Transmissions and diffs are black magic to me.I'm a mechanical cave man (some say I'm a cave man period).I have to have the work done by a mechanic so I have to be specific with what I tell him to do.If I have the differential disassembled and replaced a plate with a disc on both sides,would this work? I'm looking for the same results that you have.Not to tight to bind the drive train but tight enough for better offroading.Please forgive my ignorance of this subject.You are a godsend. Thanks.
  21. Great info guys! Many thanks.So I guess if I get a LSD repack kit I can use my differential and tweak it to a higher breakaway?
  22. I know it's probably been hashed and rehashed here,but I don't have time to use the search.I'd like to have the info all in one place.I have a 97 LE with AT,gear shift 4x4,and LSD.I'd like opinions on what is out there other than ARB air lockers(at least affordable ones).Lokka looks good,but only the front is available.My car is a daily driver but I would like it to be more capable off road.I'm going to use 31x10.50 tires so stock gears should be Ok.Thanks,Tim.
  23. Hawairish, would a panhard drop bracket benefit a stock or modest (2-3 in) lift with articulation? Thanks.
  24. I'm in the same boat! I'm going to go with a modified xj Cherokee bumper. Any way you do it, you'll have to fab brackets that tie into the subframe where the tow hooks are.The mounts for the stock bumper are to weak.There are some good photos in CDN_S4's build thread of the brackets you'll need.You could mount a winch platform to the brackets and cut the stock bumper to fit.It depends on how much fabbing you want to do. Good luck! Tim.
  25. Has anyone tried 235/85r16's (31.7x9.3) ? Using a 16x7 or 8 with a 4 in backspace? It seems to me this would work and keep trimming to a minimum. Yeah they're narrow but my stock tires are pretty narrow and they do a pretty good job. I'm looking to get as much ground clearance as I can on a 2 in lift.
×
×
  • Create New...