Megaton

I got about 280k out of my trailing arms. Wait on replacing them. When you do , go with polyuethane bushings upper, lower, and panhard rod. That's a permanent cure for the death wobble. Best regards, Tim.

I got about 280k out of my trailing arms. Wait on replacing them. When you do , go with polyuethane bushings upper, lower, and panhard rod. That's a permanent cure for the death wobble. Best regards, Tim.

Great build thread! It has given me some great ideas. What did you use for the tire rack? 2x4 rectangular tubing? What did you use for the hinge? How did you lower your cargo rack? You're right, it does look much better. All in all ,a terrific rig. I hope my build turns as well as yours (when I get the money to do it) . Thanks for the inspiration! Tim

Boy I really mauled that last post . Sorry. I'll try again. I think the solenoid he was referring to was the thermal element. I do have a shiney new throttle body under the hood whether I needed it or not. I cleaned the MAF with alcohol and the TB with TB cleaner. It was running fine before I cleaned them. I did it as PM. I guess no good goes unpunished:-) Any way its running fine now. Thanks again , Tim.

Almost makes me want someone hit me! Great looking bumper. You say its a custom made job? Any blueprints avaiable? Thanks, Tim.

Mechanic said it was the fast idle solenoid and the only fix was to replace the throttle body. I had it done at a cost of $400 and its now running fine. After a week of driving without it self correcting I was at a loss. I was hoping it was something I could fix myself but I'm really not much of a mechanic . Thanks for the input and Merry Christmas everyone!

I recently cleaned my throttle body/ butterfly and mass air flow sensor according to some posts I've resd here. Afterward, I have a strange pulsing idle. The engine runs smoothly , no roughness or missing. When its started cold it goes to fast idle then it goes into this pulsing idle. When put into gear (at) it goes into fast idle again and really wants to take off. I had it put on two different scanners and the parts guy said it gave no reading at all. Like it was'nt even connected. Weird. Idle air control valve? Help me out please! Thanks, Tim.

I know this is an old thread but I recently cleaned my TB and MAF sensor and have had idle problems ever since. I was'nt really having any problems before, but they were dirty so I decided to clean them. Now I have a surging, rythemic idle. When I put it in gear ( AT) the idle stops surging but it shoots up to high.( tach isn't working rpm unknown) When I went to the parts house to see if there was a trouble code , their reader could not get any codes. They said it like the car was'nt giving any signals . Weird. I hope y'all can help. Thanks , Tim.

From my research at this forum and online, the only company that is producing R50 bumpers is tactical armor group. I have heard that they are unreliable and their quality is questionable. Also from my research,I gather that a modified xj bumper will work. The mounting points are suppost to align but custom tie-in brackets must be fabbed. The bumper is also narrower than the pathy's. Dirtbound offroad and rough country both offer DIY xj bumpers for under $500. That might be the way to go since it has to be modified anyway. Smitty-built has a nice xj bumper at a reasonable price also. Ihave not tried any of these options yet so if anyone more knowlegeable can correct me ,feel free. Best regards, Tim

Welcome neighbor! I live over by Lake Cumberland.This is a great forum, I've learned a lot from it. Sounds like you have a pretty radical ride going there.Although I have a R50 , I"ll check out your post when I can. Again, welcome, Tim.

97 LE 4x4 Wheels: stock 15 x6.5 Tires:Goodyear Wrangler 235/65 r15 No lift. My wish list: OME 1.75 in lift. 235/85r16 tires. I would like to do this w/o using any wheel or strut spacers. The 235/85r16s are 31.7 x9.3 ins so maybe there would'nt be a rubbing problem using 16x7 bs 3.75? I don't mind a little plastic trimming but don't want to have to cut metal. Any thoughts folks? Thanks, Tim.

Be sure to put a little anti-sieze compound on the plug threads. It makes removal much easier. Best regards, Tim

As this is my only ride, I needed to get it back on the road asap. The only hubs Tirepros could get overnight were Warn premium at $210 ( their cost) which is about $30 higher than on Amazon. I called in some markers and Tirepros helped by letting me make payments so things are working out OK. The Warn hubs might be overkill for my purposes but I should'nt have to worry about breaking them. Thanks for the info.

Yesterday I took my pathy to Tirepros to have my axles installed. We found the autolock drive flang was siezed onto the axel. The mechanic said he had never seen this before. The flange will have to be destroyed to remove it. I guess I'll have to go to manual hubs sooner than I wanted to . I'll scrape up the money somehow. When it rains.....

Welcome and best regards from a neighbor in Kentucky. You will find any and all info you need at this sight , you just have to ask or search.

Thanks for the input everyone. I ordered the cardone select from rockauto. The parts guy at autozone said theirs were cardone select but he wanted $20 more than rockauto. The Rockford boots sound like a good idea. I will probably get a set for when I need to replace worn ones.

Thanks for the input everyone. I ordered the cardone select from rockauto. The parts guy at autozone said theirs were cardone select but he wanted $20 more than rockauto. The Rockford boots sound like a good idea. I will probably get a set for when I need to replace worn ones.

Did you use new hangers? Maybe new ones would be stiffer and not move around so much. (The rubber hangers I mean.)

Time to replace front axles. I haden't engaged my 4wd since last winter so I thought I'd check it. The chattering was incredible! It has me concerned. Any advice on replacements? Are the ones AC offers for $97 better than the autozone $70 ? I would like to upgrade if I could because I plan on doing more offroading in the future. I also plan on a lift kit, taller tires, manual hubs winch bumper,etc., as funds allow. The advise and info I've gotten on this site so far has been invaluable. Thanks!

I found some of the threads. Great info! Thanks Rebelord.

Is anyone making R50 bumpers? Tactical armor group is the only place I've found lately.I've heard a lot of bad things about them but they have a slick website and some of the videos I've seen show a really good product. The base price of $ 500 is also appealing. Some of my local welding shops have looked at images of what I want and say "no I won't do that" or "yeah , it'll run about $1500" Sometimes its so frusterating , I wish l'd bought a jeep! ( Just kidding:-)

I just got my car back from the shop. It's an unbelieveable difference! I got all the parts (2 piece poly bushing set for upper and lower trailing arms plus hardware and panhard rod bushing plus hardware) from 4x4 parts for around $275 shipped. The only problem I had was with the garage. A " 1 or 2 hour tops " $200 estimate job turned into 26+ hour $330 job. I could'nt do anything about the time it took, but I did persuade them to stick with the original estimate. Next on the "to do" list is the strut mount rust recall. Best regards to all ,Tim

I have just secured the funds to fix my pathy's death wobble. Without you guys and NPORA I would still not know what caused it or how to fix it. None of my local garages could determine the problem or how to fix it. I'm going with poly all the way. I have found a garage willing to do the job since I'm to old and fat to crawl around under cars any more. Thanks a lot!

I had the same problem.I could hear the AC drain because it dripped onto something hot and hiss. The frame around my sunroof is made of fiberglass and it is broken and missing in some places.Since I don't use my sunroof I used gorilla glue duct tape around the seams and that seems to have solved the problem.It might not be very attractive, but it's cheap and quick.