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Everything posted by zakzackzachary

  1. I've been working on diagnosing a similar issue with my 3.3L. Sometimes, almost randomly as far as I can tell, after I first start the engine it'll run rough- stumbling like a misfire. Letting it run a bit, or if I just start driving, it'll go away pretty quick and then idle fine. I haven't yet narrowed it down, but it sounds similar to your issue. I had a knock sensor code, but it went away after I changed out a bad O2 sensor, so the knock code was connected to that thankfully.
  2. Okay so update. Me and @PathyDude17 started chatting and it appears there's more differences in rear shock mount placement and required lengths than I originally thought! Pre-facelift has an upper mount that is slight up/away from the top of the spring mount, and a lower mount that is about in line with the axle. My 3.3L post-facelift has an upper mount like pre, but a lower mount that is dropped below the axle. 3.5L post-facelift seems to have an upper mount closer to the top spring mount and dropped below the axle. We're going to try to gather some picture examples and put together a separate post about it. Just another example of all the minute differences between models...
  3. I have LR 9449's which are just the stiffer version of the 9447's and currently use Bilstein 33-185569. I do have the tire carrier on the back which adds some weight, but I've never had any issue with my bushings or length of stock brake lines yet.
  4. That looks awesome and provides a ton of attachment points, great job! I thought I'd be building one out of extruded aluminum one day, but that's definitely more pricey. Same idea though.
  5. My nose is burning from all the bleach we use at work now. #essential

    1. PathyDude17


      Same. Spraying down golf carts with a 5:1 water bleach mixture that has to set overnight

  6. I'm a bit outside of the Seattle area and it's the same. Everyone seems to be doing a good job with social distancing/sheltering other than for grocery shopping/walks. I'm still working, both from home and having to go in to support unfortunately. Happy to have a job that's flexible though, some aren't doing as well with the shutdown of non-essential businesses.
  7. Looks great! You Australians have some great options available to you. I don't think we have the LOVELLS front struts available to us in the US, but I've heard good things. YOu have a 2001 with a 3.3L? I thought 2000 was the last year for the facelift+3.3, but maybe I'm wrong. For HID headlights a guy posted up on here his projector retrofit and with our basic headlights it looks really straight forward. I might look into that one day. Welcome!
  8. I brought my PF in and they said, "It's not bad enough for them to warranty." It's pretty annoying. It'll retract like 1/10 times but usually I manually feed it back in.
  9. Another option to try is penetrating oil and an impact wrench if you can get one. New ones shouldn't spin as freely as the old loosey goosey ones, in my experience.
  10. I personally bought KYB replacements for: 54302/54303 (strut), 54050M (strut bellow), 54320 (strut mount + spacer it comes with), 54325 (strut bearing came with mount), 54040BA/BB (nuts came with mount), 54056X I replaced the top bolt with a Moog camber bolt for added adjustability. Then for everything else I re-used the OEM stuff. So I didn't use an OEM bearing, I guess only time will tell if it'll last.
  11. Nice job! I did this once before on a 7th generation Honda Accord and it was a pain in the butt. This looks honestly really straight forward for our Pathfinders... I might have to add it to the project list!
  12. Welcome! I'm @GrizzlyPath on instagram too. I'm over in the Kitsap peninsula area.
  13. Alright homie. There's a few threads on this forum that have more detail, including my personal build thread you can check out. Long story short, the KYB replacement stuff is all totally fine and will go together exactly like OEM, except that KYB item 54320 is different than OEM. KYB item 54320 comes as a two part piece that the above schematic doesn't show. Basically there's a metal tube that comes out of that part and extends down to engage with the strut when assembled where as the KYB unit has the part and the metal tube separate. It's super super easy to assemble, but you just have to remember to put the metal tube spacer onto the strut prior to putting item 54320 on when assembling. And that's it.
  14. I appreciate that Josh! It's been a fun mild build. It'd be a long haul, but if you ever make it out here we'll make sure it was worth it! There's some beautiful spots out here for sure, coming from AK the mountains are a bit less intense here, but having the fire roads makes them so much more accessible which is great. I lived in Huntsville, AL for a while and visited the Chattahoochee and base of the Appalachians, which I see you're just south of. There are definitely some beautiful areas out there, and amazing driving roads if you have a street car- just not the super big peaks like in the West. I'd love to go back and cruise the Blue Ridge Parkway again one day.
  15. Wow, I have NOT been updating this. My life has been insane lately so I've mostly been lurking. Not a whole lot has changed with the rig other than a new basket-light set-up. The rest has been maintenance and using it! Met up with a bunch of the NPORA PNW guys and did an overnight near Mt. Adams- After that little shindig I decided I wanted to change up the basket lights. I built some custom brackets for the side lights, and then swapped in some round front fogs. I always liked the "classic" round fog look. Wind noise is up, probably eats at my minimal MPG, but it's fun for now. Went out with a buddy to play around in Tahuya ORV, about 20 min from my house. I've got lots of pics and vid, but I'm on a time crunch. I might add them later otherwise they're on my instagram @GrizzlyPath I basically have a 1/4 mile driveway so once a week the Pathfinder is the Trashfinder- Random- Testing the light set-up. Pretty good floodage and I love the side/rear lights. I may need a spot for forward though. The trails get dark. Always fun when you run into a stock one. If you want more misc pics/vids definitely scroll through my Instagram. You don't need an account to view on a computer, unsure about on a phone - GrizzlyPath Instagram
  16. I need to keep an eye out for a t-case skid plate, but on a lot of the vehicles it's hard to even see under there b/c they remove the wheels and set the vehicle on the ground
  17. Did you make sure to assemble the KYB front struts with that little 1" metal spacer dealio? (I'm just checking!)
  18. Welcome! Looking forward to some pics of your setup.
  19. Welcome to the forum! Lots of great knowledge here.
  20. Pretty sure MTG meant spacers on top of the front struts. But still, spring lift is recommended over a big spacer lift like 2".
  21. How do you blow out the charcoal line? The charcoal boxes are in the rear near the spare tire right? And if I recall, the vent is a tube that points down?
  22. Welcome! Hopefully one day you can stretch the legs of Leaky Susan and get on some dirt. The 88's appear to be a great all around little truck. Looks like Oklahoma City!
  23. Welcome! I lived in HSV 2016-18. Loved that city. I look forward to seeing pics of your rig and maybe some local exploration missions!
  24. I would not recommend trying to use a Hi-Lift off the step mounts. They're rounded and don't really stick out that much. Just overall not a good anchor. I've seen people do it off the hitch. But if you're new to a Hi-Lift definitely do some studying, and maybe practice with someone who's familiar. They're useful, but also super dangerous. In many circumstances a solid bottle jack, or even scissor jack, can get you out of a pinch. Just my $0.02! Once you get sliders a Hi-Lift would become a lot more useful.

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