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02_Pathy last won the day on January 13

02_Pathy had the most liked content!

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About 02_Pathy

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    NPORA Veteran

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2002 Pathfinder LE, OME HD up front w/Gabriel Struts, Bilstein 5125 shocks (33-185569) LR 9449 rear coils, light bar and CB antenna with Uniden 520xl with a PA, Falken AT3W's 265/70R17 with stock rims and spacers, Amber light grill mod, retrofitted swing gate for full size spare.
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
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  • Year

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  • Country
    United States

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  1. That's a super good idea. I work on Acuras professionally and when we do engines they drop out with the subframe and we use kinda the same trick. We use old subframe bolts, cut the heads off and cut a notch in them so when we are lowering the car onto the subframe we can get it positioned correctly and don't have to mess with trying to lines the holes up. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk Also for dropping the subframe, if you have spare trailing arm bolts for the pathfinder, they're the same thread pitch for the rear subframe bolts and act as a guide for about 3-3.5 inches down Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  2. For the most part you really have to take everything out that the manual says to do unfortunately. The only thing that I deviated from the manual was that I just unbolted the alternator and hung it using garden wire to have more room and I didnt even touch the power steering pump. But if you want to drop the whole pan, you have to drop the subframe and hoist the engine so it stays in place just so you have enough room to take it out. I just used the harbor freight 1000lb capacity support bar that sits on the inner fender. Also if you do drop the pan, on reinstallation I bought some thread rod that were the same thread pitch of the pan bolts and threaded them into the block as guide rods to slide the pan back on without smearing the rtv everywhere and making sure the pan goes straight up and seals. Also cut some slots in the threaded rods as well so you can take them out with a flathead if you do go that route Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  3. I just dropped my transmission and oil pan to replace the oil pan seal and rear main seal. On the rear main seal there is a channel where the rubber upper pan seal goes into where you do goop it with RTV and sandwich it between the oil pan. I removed my whole pan and replaced the front and rear seals as I'm already this far I might as well do it right now then have it leak later down the road. Although you do have to remove quite a bit of things to get the whole pan off. Also if you take the pan off theres 2 o rings inside that you'll need to replace as well. I just ordered the Felpro RMS that comes with a new retainer and the oil pan gasket set that came with the 2 seals for front and rear as well as the o rings. Best of luck with the pathfinder! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  4. Making slow progress due to work but finally got the oil pan off and with@TowndawgR50 swinging by and giving me a hand. Upper oil pan seal was broken in half so explains why it was pouring out. Getting the pan off was surprisingly easy as the RTV wasnt really holding it anymore as well as the RMS. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  5. Yeah its definitely a nightmare come true for me lol Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  6. Alright it's been a long time since I've been on here but the rig still exists in my life but now I'm addressing the huge oil leak I've had for a year or so and always put the job off to the side as it's somewhat a big one for a $20 part. Upper oil pan seal is completely shot with the RMS only weeping just a little bit of oil. Had to remove lots of large components to get the tranny out like the front diff, exhaust, drivelines obviously and other tid bits which add up time. So far got the flex plate off and called it a night and hopefully will resume next weekend. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  7. I took apart my manifold 3 times for various jobs such as the power valve screws, coolant crossover pipe and valve covers and I've used both OEM gaskets as well as the Mahle complete set and the Mahle imo looks very similar to the OEM gaskets and I have no issues with them. Here's a link to the gaskets and they also have Felpro which is fairly reputable as well. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2002,pathfinder,3.5l+v6,1431960,engine,intake+manifold+gasket,5424
  8. I can say that the drive by cable is very controllable and predictable and in 4lo I can feather the throttle and not lurch forward, I have driven several drive by wire vehicles and the response is definitely not like a drive by cable and in my dad's '19 Trailhawk it is extremely terrible, you keep adding throttle and nothing happens then all of a sudden power comes out of nowhere and you launch Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  9. You'll have more room to work with if the tires are off and the rig on jack stands, that's how I did mine Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  10. I used a superstrut bar and held it to the rack via u bolts and used that to mount the side lights and used auxbeam tube clamp mounts for the front and back pods on the rack Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  11. Ome hd coils with 1 inch spacer and nrc9449s with 33 185569 shocks Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  12. My buddy has a '18 Ford Raptor and it has 4 undercarriage cameras (front, sides and rear) and the quality of those is decent and gives you a rough idea on what obstacles are in your way. You can also tie in all of those cameras and it gives you a "360°" view when parking to show how close you are to other cars and such. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  13. I dont think they make glass fog lights for an OEM replacement for the R50 Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  14. Hm that is strange, since we both have an '02 when I swapped everything to LED's I never had that issue with the cruise control shutting itself off. The only thing I did was install the new blinker relay to stop the hyperflash of the blinkers.

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