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*Updated: 01/17/2022 6:54PM PST

Mr. Pickles

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Everything posted by Mr. Pickles

  1. The moment we'd all been waiting for...
  2. Welcome! That a good deal on the Pathy, and that's also a SWEET car!!! I hope you'll go for toys for the Pathy (SAS or not), but we'd understand wheeling that rig as it is (with some real tires!). Happy playing!
  3. Nice, yeah 5112 sounds right for Rancho, but I heard the same schpeel from the local 4WD shop that they also make the Pro-Comps. Apparently while there are many brands of shocks, there are just several companies that *make* shocks and then rebadge them. I wouldn't worry much about popping out your springs. I've run mine for 5+ years and stretched them to the point the tire is below the body and frame, with no issues. I've also heard of guys adding in some simple tabs at the spring mounts bottom and top, just something to keep them in place.
  4. Packie, you better be there! Tell them you broke your truck, then show up next time covered in dirt. On a side note, Nov 7th sounds interesting. I may be up, gotta see about things. This should be fun Sat.
  5. Mine are pretty mild. I've got visions of muscle cars and toys, but my regular go-to is either a clean '84-85 RX-7, or more likely a 280ZX Turbo. I know, I know, but these turn a certain COOL button for an 80's kid, they have potential, and I could turn wrenches on them. Plus there are LOTS of toys available to push them over the top.
  6. My first question is why? *notes pic of car wound out making little fart flames* My second question is......... why?
  7. Check the starter again, just in case, though I know its a pain. I've had one that tested fine one day, then I put it back in and nothing, took it back and it tested bad the next day. You can *tap* the starter casing too with a hammer or wrench, that may make it work/not work, but its a bandaid and won't work for long. After that, go to wiring if the battery is fine. My truck has 175K miles, and over the years I've had to replace the + battery cable (to vehicle and starter) and - as well due to age, big stereo, lots of lighting, all of the above. All told, its maybe $40 total and some time. I also had something go bad in the ignition circuit about 2 years ago. I'm not sure what, but even with the new cables, good starter, etc. it still wouldn't start. I traced the ignition circuit back to the firewall, then when that was fine, I tore the steering column apart and started at the ignition and went back. No go, everything tested fine that I locate. I ended up re-wiring directly from the ignition, bypassing the Interlock switch as well as the rest of the wiring and started fresh from the column and wired directly (fused!) to starter. Its not exactly ideal, but it's held up fine so far. Just a thought.
  8. Happy bday man! Long time no see. *Tipping back an adult beverage in your general direction*
  9. Ditto on Summit for the kit. I believe mine was Permacool brand. Slick gave me the part # that I can't seem to recall, but I mounts to our truck's filter location, and then the relo adapter takes a basic small block Ford V8 filter, meaning added oil capacity (an oil change now about 4+ quarts... which is a good thing) and you can find the filter anywhere for CHEAP. (other brand/make filter sizes are available of course) Mine is mounted right on the passenger side fender behind the battery. One of the best mods I've made on the rig for sure.
  10. I'm in. Probably not for camping, though. If you're not familiar with Belfair/Tahuya area, there is gas at the Safeway and I think some other options, and there are the basic essentials there. There's a Napa on the outside chance somebody has an oops, but that shouldn't be a problem. There is camping too. Tahuya info Cya
  11. Just in case you're wondering, that/those Pathy's are not Mr. Jim's. Mine is the one on the left. This was taken few years ago at Evans Creek ORV area, WA near Mt. Rainier. A side note though, my first trail run in my rig was with Mr. Jim & co. See ya soon Jim!
  12. This is what I have, not too great but you can trace the lines.
  13. Damn. I was out of town anyways, but I had written off the NW threads cause i thought they were deleted or something, so I haven't checked. I didn't notice they were moved inside the US thread (yes, I've been out of the loop). Keep in touch next time, Tahuya has been an old favorite mellow fun run.
  14. WTF?!?! JIIIIIIIM! Scott, let me know if i can be of assistance too. This is BS.
  15. Holy cow, I got off topic. Just for your notes... my Pathy has PIAA 40 series (old, $40 on feeBay) driving lights with PIAA 55 watt bulbs which I haven't had to change since i bought them like 5 years ago, along with Sylvania Silverstar headlights (for now) in stock housings, but I added a relay and new wiring to bypass stock for the headlight circuit = BRIGHT light. As far as the lights go, "bright as hell" on your end doesn't necessarily = good on the road. Its the light's housing that focuses the light's output into a useable beam.
  16. I can't seem to find pics, but my 3" or so suspension lift is similar to Bonez, and then I later added a 3" body lift too. Ditto to the comments on cranking the torsion bars. If you want to go pre-running, I'd suggest aftermarket t-bars for the extra strength. The body lift would probably add too much top-heavy weight, though I'm sure you know that. You may run into tire rub though with just the suspension lift, so you might look into some aftermarket bump stops. As far as T-bars, I went to with Sway-Away if you're interested, and there are others. I've run them flat out a couple times on logging roads along with Rancho 5000 shocks, upwards of 90mph, and have jumped several times fooling around, and all is good. You can get the same lift though by re-indexing the T-bars, as has been discussed, though I can't comment on performance or longevity.
  17. Nice duct tape. I would recommend on further exam, just cutting in like this, and removing the stock stuff and installing grade8 or such regardless to match the block lift kits. Those rear mounts were a beast to align anyways, and we ended up cutting in anyways to torch and oil the captive nuts. As long as those rear mounts are securely bolted, they're fine and so is the body. My 2 cents
  18. Call me conservative, but key words here: top half; is in the process of having a Super Charger; guy can't finish; not too sure; it's had a performance shop do* some* of the blueprinting and work, but still needs to be completed. There is a reason why this person walked away, economy or work either way. Sounds sketchy and/or expensive to me without a full breakdown of what has/has not/should be done.
  19. If you are on country roads and such, have you considered buying a decent X brand fog/driving light housing (PIAA, KC, Hella, etc.), and then installing an aftermarket HID kit? I found a decent pretty much plug-n-play kit on eBay for around $55 that I put on the wife's car (in the stock Acura headlights). We've run them for 6 months and probably 8+K miles now I've tested by driving in front of the car in traffic, as well as oncoming on the highway, and its not bad at all. They are AWESOME in bad weather and such, and they light up the road incredibly without blinding other drivers (results would probably depend on the car/light housing used). I stuck with the 6000K version IIRK, its pretty much just bright white with a hint of blue, but the result was great! I'll be doing the same for the Pathy's trail lights shortly. Just a thought. By the way, my original point I didn't get to ( ) was that HID uses a tiny amount of power through the ballast in comparison to trditional lighting. Something like 35watts vs. the tons in aftermarket lighting. Here's the stock vs. mod
  20. The legal system is fundamentally flawed and broken. Enough said, I'm not going down this path again. The only thing that beats a woman against a man in a domestic situation is anyone with $$$ vs anyone. I've seen some pretty fabulous BS in my days too, helping my MOTHER along with her divorce situation with her ex + $$$. A-freaking-mazing. Corrupt, jaded... and CORRUPT are the only words that fit the US legal system.
  21. Not in the mag, I saw previous posts here. I need to replace the rear link bushings, and for the price I'm thinking I might replace the whole things maybe, we'll see.
  22. Nice, I saw your post earlier. I may actually be in the market, depends on my funding after tires and stuff coming up. I've got crap bushings in the rear links and a Lock Right and a heavy skinny pedal. You think these would hold up?
  23. Oh, this brings back memories. I also did mine alone, and took a slow long weekend with online help from 88' and others. I had some minor issues, mostly a frozen mount bolt That slip steering shaft is sketchy feeling, but its been on mine stretched out and wheeled for probably 5 years now. I put it half in a vice per 88, clamped down some vice grips on the shaft below, and beat the living !@#$%&* out of it for some extension. Nice job on the blocks and jacks, I was chilling in a parking lot with a 2 1/2 floor jack, the stock bottle, some jack stands, and the HOA president breathing down my neck. Ditto on the fuel filler and the in-line extension, that took some elbow grease. All in all, the whole thing is ok though. BTW, if you're still screwing with your lower radiator hose, I took mine and flipped it, trimmed just a little, and its fine to this day.
  24. I'm not sure on UK wiring vs US, but if you only need to wire them so they are only active when your sidelights (parking/running lights ?) or headlights are on, and if you can't locate a decent source to tap otherwise in the wire harness, you should be able to locate a parking light (this would be a side marker light that comes on before the headlights) near the light source and tap that circuit to activate a relay for your new light install. The relay needs very little power to trigger it on and power the circuit. I would avoid the headlight circuit, though.

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