Camelfilter

I got it re-registered & it passed Mass inspection today. Link to Craigslist add: http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/3836795910.html

Fair condition-KBB lists trade in value at 2000$, private party sale at 3000$. (That KBB list is for a 2000, mine is a 1999.5.) 2800$ is a fair and reasonable price IMO.

Adding: It also has WARN manual locking hubs.

Yeah-good idea. Also has bolt on rocksliders 2/3 years old on it. Cross posted to NICO. ?Price- not sure, hence the feeler. Haven't done any research on that- and am kinda busy with job/apartment/movers quotes etc.

Howdy just a feeler: am thinking about selling my 1999.5 Pathfider SE. Moving back to Oregon, and maybe not have the time to deal with tire kickers etc...I have a '13 Titan as my DD, and the Pathy is not used at all now. Original owner, have 2 sets of Nissan Wheels. Winter set is mounted with studded snows (plenty of life left ?3 seasons use) still on it. Summer set has Toyo Open Country TA upsized, maybe good for a couple more seasons. Has 112K miles, due for timing belt. No CEL. Has OEM swing out spare tire carrier (rare option), I've never personaly seen one with it in this body style- just pictures of others. Has OEM brush guard with Hella "black" driving lights. Has HID yellow fogs. Has rust starting to creep up on the usual Pathy places-fender guards/window trim. Had strut mount recall done 2/3 years ago. Level 2 on one side (?drivers side) and less level on the other side. Had gas filler tube done at same time. Replaced rear springs & shocks last year. Have new lower rear sway bars with bushings not installed, will include. Car is located in Dedham MA, registration expired, inspection is good thru end of month. Pictures are in my previous posts (I think?). Ideas, anyone local want another one? Thanks!

I agree, looks nice! Mind that if you remove the fender flares, you might find find a bunch-o-rust. Esp if it was allways in New England.

Thanks for sharing. Folks spend time helping others, and some would like to know if that time was wasted or not.

I'm currently debating installing a brush guard on my new (to me) Titan. I have a one on my 1999.5 Pathfinder & think it looks pretty good. Dealer installed option, so ?maybe a teensy bit better than current knock offs. The one I have has the hoop around the headlights, but not the 3 bars directly acrossed the headlight. Mine is powder coated grey & the drivers side headlight used to bother me. Caused me a little bit of distraction while driving because the headlight would light up the brush guard hoop a little bit. Taped a piece of black rubber there (bike innertube), and no more reflecting distraction. As good as a real bumper? No way. Damage multiplyer? I had allways thought so myself, but a recent thread on another board makes me think otherwise. Obviously depends on the type & speed of a crash/impact.

Ditto...

From what I understand: You are correct, folks who use the WJ coils use an adapter for the bottom seat.

I think mine we're the sway bars- the little suspension bars in the rear. One wasn't even bolted anymore, so was clunking when I came to a stop, then clunked again when I started again. It was really bizarre because I could feel the "clunk" in the brake pedal. I was thinking all kinds of things- brake pads, rotors, front suspension slop. I couldn't figure it out...local tire shop found the problem and changed out all the sway bars (again the little bars, not the big control arms which cause the death wobble). My terminology might be off, hence the description... I bought a pair of the lower control arms w/the bushings allready installed. That's a project for springtime.

Check on the rear suspension also. I had a bad clunk I thought was coming from the front, turned out to be the rear.

Ditto-iceman: pictures please!

I could be wrong, but i don't think you can conveniently insert them in the front. You would likely have to remove the strut assembly, and if you are doing that you might as well put a new spring in (either OEM or lift).

The foglight relay modification lets you use the foglights with the headlights off. They will turn off with the key out like the headlights do, depending how you do the modification. I thought we had sticky here on how to do it, but I didn't see one.

I was using PIAA bulbs for a while. They "look" like 50 or 80-100watts or somesuch when on, but only use a bit over OEM rating. They were VERY bright, but also short lifespan. At the suggestion from folks here or over on NICO-I then did one of those plug & play HID kits. 35Watt, slim ballasts. I got the yellow color ?3000K, and also put some vinyl film over the foglight glass (looks just like shoes & socks above). I had to do some dremeling to the OEM plastic socket for bulb/wire fitment, but that was about it. I did the foglight/headlight-relay modification & run them all the time. Kinda like daytime running lights during the day, and with my headlights after dark. They work great! The yellow color also works excellent for when I need them as fogs in inclement weather. Much better than a "white" light in my opinion. I did have an issue after I first installed them with them being a "greenish" color. The company I bought them from sent replacement bulbs no problem, and they work fine now. I bought them from V-leds, but I think they have since discontinued selling HID's.

Nice pics, thanks for sharing. I want that snow over this way! On the tires: Did you get them siped? I had mine done when I bought them, hasn't increased wear (as far as I can tell). Most of the sipes are gone on the tread towards the sides of the tire. Still has them on the middle tread. Watch your front strut clearance if you ever run chains. Mine could clear (barely) when I test fitted a set. Likely would have been an epic fail if I had to drive on them over a pass, extended drive on ice etc.

You may or may not have an issue with the tire hitting the bottom of the front strut spring holder thingy. You won't know untill you fit them. I say give it a try with one. If it clears you are good to go. When new mine barely cleared, but did. My 3 season tires are Toyo 275/70/16 and I clear the strut. Nice tires, I bought mine out west at a Schwalbe. They weren't sure if they'd fit either, but they did. Also the tires last a long time-I think I'm on my 6th year with them now, and I also drove back acrossed country on them. I have only been swapping them out in the winter for the past 3 years. Worst case if they don't clear the strut, use a spacer set up front. I'm not a big fan of spacers, so just take extra care checking them if you do.

Keep them, looks sharp & they are functional. Consider making the tops stickey if you haul folks around - especially kids/elderly. They are really slippery when used as steps in the rain/snow. I gave mine a couple coats of Plasti Dip, and they seemed OK for my brother when he was on chemotherapy. The Plasti Dip also helps there appearance, as mine got an "instant" rust film from road salt. Also, consider welding them on, I haven't yet. But would like to.

Looks good & great price...Nice! There was a recent thread around on how to conveniently mount a spare up on a rack. Recent Craigslist finds of mine: 2 "tri spoke" wheels for 100$ - I'll now have a spare on my swing out that matches my winter wheels! Bought a $500 espresso machine for $50. I'm VERY pleased with that find!

Looks good, thanks for sharing! What kind of shocks & struts did you use?

If you do go with them please post up how it works out...they have a nice rear bumper I've been thinking about...

I swapped out the passenger side spring & shock yesterday. Also swapped out the spring isolator for the aftermarket one as scdesigns had suggested. MAN that aftermarket one I have smells awfull!!! Must be the rubber/plastic they use, but mine smells like it is leaching gasoline or something, they stank up my kitchen untill I triple bagged them... My OEM spring isolator (aka rubber donut) was still intact, but is all mushy-like a wet sponge... I wonder if the spring isolator started out soft, or just got that way over time? Ride seems safe and is markedly improved! I bought Raybestos springs, seem to be OEM equivalent. And KYB gas adjust shocks. Might get to the drivers side today, and the trailing arms (if i can get the hard wear ). --a bit of an extra expense untill I do a spring lift, but safe! I'm not prepared to tackle the front suspension now anyways...

- I had a pretty bad scare yesterday doing 35mph (in a 40mph zone) and all most lost control! Rather than scotch taping my suspension I just bought new springs, shocks & trailing arms off rock auto, pretty good price... My folks are visiting in 2 weeks and might borrow my Pathy - not worth the scare (or worse). Hopefully the new setup will be safe untill spring. Then I'd like to go for a 2" spring lift. I'll see if anyone would like the regular springs on here or over at Nico for shipping cost. --I'm just now wondering if I can get by after a spring lift with the same shocks (KYB GA), or it they would have to be longer?? Also I'll have spare trailing arms I can put better bushing in for the lift. Not the best timing, but better safe than sorry! --Also thanks again for the tips...

Looks great! Nicely done. Any dings / chips from mount & balance?