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msavides

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Everything posted by msavides

  1. With My 94, it just kept flaking off. I decided to sand off the areas that it was flaking. and used White Durabak bed liner over it. a year later there was a spot that started flaking under the durabak and the dura back came off with it, but it was just one spot. so I touched up the area with the durabak again. it has been fine ever since and it has been 2 years. I paid $900 bucks for it so I did not mind using bed liner on it. It looks better than having grey primer spots all over it. It has taken some shopping carts and they just bounce off without leaving a scratch.
  2. My 1991 still to this day has no problem. My 1994 had the flaking paint down to the primer. Both of them white. I know in the 90s they did not use a clear coat on the white paint. I think the EPA made them change something about how they painted vehicles around that time. I noticed quite a few Vehicle from all different makes and models having that issue around that time frame.
  3. I wish I knew. Mine is the same way, after 3 attempts at replacing them at the junk yard. I am beginning to think it is the Gauge or perhaps a marginal voltage regulator behind the dash. My fuel dummy light still works so as long as I am not too far from a gas station I start heading to one when I see the light. I generally go my the Trip odometer to tell me I am getting close to the light coming on.
  4. Be very careful with the sending units. after all this time they are very fragile. the flexible contact that rides up the fuel level contact can crack. when they are pulled out they are subject to damage just setting them on their side.
  5. I believe there is 2 different fuel tank sizes. 17 gal and 23 gal. My best guess after wondering around junk yards that SE had the larger tank size.
  6. is this per chance a California model? I could be the EGR is clogged.
  7. Just remember there are different size tanks. and different dash gauge levels, make sure you are getting and XE for and XE and and An SE for an SE. I made that mistake and noticed the height difference when I pick one up at pick n pull. Then I got one where the gauge worked but the fuel light sensor did not.
  8. Flat spots on the the starter motor. That is the biggest issue with Remanufactured starters. If you can find an auto parts store that still has some new ones I think it is worth the extra to not have to change out remans. Most of the time they just replace the brushes and the flat spots are still there. The last time I found a Brand new one from Rock Auto and it was only $20 more than the reman, and I did not have to send back the core. They may be drying up though.
  9. Good thing you caught it when you did. More that Likely you flywheel Teeth would have gotten damaged, The you would have had to pull the transmission, replace the flywheel, resurface/replace the pressure plate and possible replace the clutch.
  10. yep, firsts order of business to replace my Manual transmission. 2nd order will be to get my Tie rod Ends replace then alignment.
  11. Yes you are correct on the sensor being in the T-case. I have only ever dealt with the complete Transmission and T-case together. This will be my first time having to swap out the T-case onto the junkyard Transmission. This will be my 4th time removing/replacing the Transmission. 1st time was to replace the original Transmission (bearing whine from being underfilled) replaced with NOS Nissan that came with T-case 2nd time was to replace the rear main seal. 3rd time was to replace the clutch after getting contaminated water on it from doing water crossing. (the backing plate was missing the seals) Already paid for the 97 transmission and waiting for them to tell me it is ready so I can pick it up. Apparently it is tested and guaranteed working. Just got a call from the junkyard. they said they pulled the plug on the Transmission and they said it has some chunks. so they are going to have one brought from another location for me to pick up.
  12. I have a 1991 Pathfinder, My transmission has been popping out of 2nd gear for some time now, I also have a transmission fluid leak that I have not been able to find. I looked into local shops and nobody wants to rebuild it. I have been looking at online wreaking yards and found one close by. I think I remember that the same transmission was used from 1990 through 1997. I want a newer one as I want the fill plug in the proper location. If any one in southern Oregon has any Transmission shop in mind that may want to rebuild my old one That would be preferred rather than a taking a chance on a Junkyard Transmission. I would appreciate any feed back on compatible transmissions. I know that 1994 and up switched to a electrical Speedo sensor. But I know I can just swap my cable driven one in place of it.
  13. last time I went looking for bushings I had to get them from Bandit 4x4. Not even sure if they are still selling them though.
  14. Always wanted to take a trip up there, and check it out. It took me 5 years in Southern Oregon before I ventured out to check out just a few of the places around here. I imagine it will take me 5 more years before I venture up there.
  15. The rear trans mount is actually quite simple. you really just need to put a jack on the tail housing. loosen the bolts on the mount and then raise the transmission assembly up to give you enough clearance to remove the mount. replace it and lower the assembly slowly while aligning the bolt holes. should not take any longer than 30 mins. the front motor mounts are similar but not as easy, as there is not an easy way to take the weight off the motor mounts. I had to replace one but it was over 15 years ago and can't remember what I had to go through to get it replaced.
  16. Nice to see some recent Build threads still happening. Good Work
  17. I strengthened the door cards with non foaming gorilla glue. painted it on with a brush and let it dry. even repaired some cracking, it is worth doing for that aging cardboard that was never meant to live this long.
  18. Are you sure it is the Starter. I went round and round a few times. Installed the same starter 4 times, each time bench testing the starter and it worked. Turned out to be the ignition switch. replaced it and I have not looked back. BTW in case you did not know the ignition switch is just the electrical portion not the key portion and is pretty cheap. like $14- $20
  19. I too have had mixed results with aftermarket Half shafts. I had ripped boots and bought some half shafts off of Rock auto. I noticed with my front torsions cranked up that they were binging after install. I lowered them and got realigned and ran them for about 6 months and then cranked them back up and there was no binding anymore. I did end up grenading one of the half shafts about 3 month later 4 wheeling it hard. I put the original stock one back in after I replaced the boots and repacked them. No issues. word of advice Keep the stock ones if you are lifted in the front. They have much better angles than the aftermarket ones.
  20. keep in mind that the oil fill port is too low on these transmissions. filling just to the fill port is not enough and eventually will cause the symptoms you had with your last transmission.. the output shaft does not get properly lubricated with it filled too low.
  21. We just had a new windshield put in about a month ago. they replaced the rubber seal with a new one. probably not stock nissan but there is hope for a replacement option for you. It looks good and I was surprised that they had the windshield and seal in stock after just calling them a day in advance.
  22. 1. corrosion - the line runs right next to the battery. 2. In my case it was light front end damage plus some corrosion, the grill pushed into the receiver/dryer and it pushed back enough to bend the line, also took out the passenger head light. the corrosion kept me from being able to braze the crack shut, all i managed to do was erode the aluminum even more. after messing with it for half the day, I gave up. I cut it because I was going to use a splice kit, I am glad I didn't case the splice kit would have costed about the same as the entire new line and I may still have had some cracks in the aluminum line. and the line was not entirely round so I was not sure the splice fitting would seal around a out of round line.
  23. took line to a local Auto repair shop. they made me one on the spot. charged me $59. took it home hooked it up and put the vacuum on the system. been holding at -25 for about 2 hours. I think I am good to put the freon in now.
  24. I have been trying to find the Air conditioning line that goes from the heater box to the Receiver/Dryer. I have not been able to find a trace of it anywhere on the webs I am coming to the conclusion that I am going to have to have one custom built. If I do I want it made out of rubber A/C hose. I believe they call this a liquid line. I have found a few places that will custom build one online, however I am having a hard time identifying the type and size of the connectors on the ends. I believe they call it a swivel type end and it is female. It has a spot on it to put an o-ring on it. I am not sure it there are standard threads for A/c or it they have metric or Standard threads. I can post some pictures of the ends. From my testing I know that both ends are the same Female swivel, but not sure on the size or thread. I have tried looking up the receiver/dryer specs to try and get some clues on the size and thread, but not having much luck. My other thought was to take the line into a automotive shop that works on A/C lines to see if they can make me one, Just not sure if there are any placed around here that do that kind of work. Any input or similar experiences would be extreamly helpful. Thanks
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