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In Canada at least, you can buy used airbags if you want, its just body shops can't put them in cars for repairs especially for insurance jobs.

Desert rat is a great shop. Mail order or at the brick and mortar

The locker will only lock while under load. If you maintain or let off the throttle, or push in the clutch, it unloads and allows the wheels to have different speeds. It basically acts like a ratchet and will let the outside wheel speed up in turns so you are not fighting the turn. Hit the throttle in the turn, and it loads up and locks the axle so the inner tire is forced to try and turn faster than it normally would. One of w things will happen, either the grip will be high enough that the truck will plow straight in a turn, or the inside tire will break traction and either make a lot of chirping/squalling, and or snap the back end out when the outside tire breaks free as well. One reason I disliked daily driving my truck on snowy city roads. Other reason was I just knew some idiot without insurance would hit me. With a manual transmission, you will find the LockRight pretty easy to live with in all reality. Just a bit of a learning process, then you won't really think of it, but will love the extra traction until you find that a locker like 4wd is great at getting stuck deeper. But then again, getting stuck is part of the fun. At least for me it is, it adds interest and knowledge. We tend to learn more from our mistakes than when coasting after all.

Dinner time update: So I’m apparently not getting OME HD coils for the front. I ordered through Bilsteinlifts.com because their website said they had 2 in stock. After a few days of nothing shipping I reached out them and a few days later they said ARB is backlogged through July. I spent a few days calling vendors who claimed to have stock to find out by phone they don’t actually have any on hand. Ultimately switched to 2” AC lift coils since those are actually in stock. Should get those Wednesday. Anyway, today I started working on the trailing arm bushings This morning and I still haven’t finished. I chose the upper driver side trailing arm to start with. I removed the sway link that’s in the way and started hammering away with the corded impact gun. Trailing arm bolt wouldn’t even budge despite several days worth of WD-40 being applied. Used an extra longer breaker bar with a wrench on the the back side of the bolt/nut to get it. Once removed, I gouged the rubber bits and put it in the vice to meet the sawzall. Started sawing with a precise cut. Flipped it 180 and started on the next precision cut. It suddenly started vibrating really bad and I cut into the trailing arm itself. I made an effort to punch out the bushing with the two cuts but it wouldn’t come out. Must be rusted together or something. Thankfully, I plan ahead sometimes and I had a set of trailing arms https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H9EL176?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title I measured the bushing sizes old vs new to see the inner diameter is 49.xx mm and the poly bushings have a diameter of 50.xx mm. Since our diameters are good, I ran the trailing arms to my nearby truck tuning shop and had the dude press out the rubber bushings from the new arms. I don’t think the dude had the right equipment because it slightly warped on of the cylinders but he got them out. I ran it home and cleaned up the inner bores with a wire brush, acetone and a coat a rust converter. Bushings push right in by hand. Feels like about 10 lbs of force is needed to squeeze them in. I put the included grease where it goes and installed the first trailing arm, using the provided new bolts. I left the nuts and bolts loose for the tightening that happens when it’s sitting level. And I ran out of daycare time so that’s all I have. Hopefully I’ll knock out the other three and get the rear lift installed tomorrow.

Just a heads up in case no one mentioned this to you yet. The new strut mounts and bearings should be Nissan OEM parts, as the kyb versions have been notorious for failing prematurely. The OEM ones are the only safe bet. It sucks that they are so much more expensive though.

Theres a mud hole behind our shop and just idling through you can tell both wheels are pushing you through instead of one losing traction and spinning freely. Driving on pavement is noticeably different, to me it feels like you're being pushed by both sides of the vehicle instead of the power transferring side to side. I'm not sure if this helps or not but it's a definite improvement over an open diff when it comes to traction Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

You have to unbolt the rear bolt on the back of the seat in the cargo area, then thread in the clip that connects the kid seat to there. To get the strap to fit snug you remove the head rest, then place the strap over pulling it tight then replace the head rest on top of the strap. I can put photos if you want.