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Have been looking back through previous threads and thiers quite a few Ozies on here , so where is everybody from ? I'm from Newcastle in NSW .

The brake reservoir is sized for the brake system. If there is no leaks, when the fluid gets down to the minimum level, the brake pads are worn down to where they should be replaced. The fluid level sensor is a simple float with a magnet inside. When the float gets close enough to the switch at the bottom of the reservoir, the magnet will close the switch, turning on the brake warning light. When there is abs and stability control systems, those lights will turn on also because the low fluid level is indicating that the brake system requires service. That said, the floats tend to turn on the lights a bit early, I suspect it is because the average driver will ignore it for a while. That has been my experience as a mechanic anyway, people tend to put things off until forced to deal with the problem. Usually it gets more expensive as well. All the 90 to 95 WD21s for North America had rear ABS. A primitive system, but it does work as long as the brake systems are functional.

Yeah it's a pretty sad story. For sure makes it to where you dont pick up any hitch hikers. Got awhile to get into there, just got into Oregon and headed up to Portland. Trucks getting pretty good has mileage.

Hi, I just purchased 2001 QX4 in January. The car was in decent condition but I performed the maintenance just for peach of mind. Here's some items that needed work on mine: -Oil Cooler Leak - Needs a new ring seal. <12 dollar part that you can find on amazon and a 15 minute job. -Replace all differential fluids and transfer case fluid -New coolant, air filter, & oil change obv -Replace trailing arm upper/lower - pretty easy job -Cam position sensors were throwing a code - replaced both 160 dollars and 10 minute job -Rear Glass Struts - lot of people don't notice that this, 30 bucks on amazon 5 minute job -Replace the serpentine belts - bought the 2001 pathfinder specifically to avoid timing belt issues -New coils in the rear, struts in the front, and shocks in rear when lift was put in -Replaced brake pads in front, new drums and shoes in rear, regreased the wheel bearings and then added warn hubs -Replaced interior lights with LEDs both roof lights and lights behind center console & clock -Added refrigerant -replaced fuel filter - cheap part and easy job as its an in-line fuel filter so you don't need to remove the fuel pump at all -Replaced the spare and got new AT tires and wheels all around - Future Plans -Oil Leak from Valve Cover Gasket - plan to fix in the future but advisable to replace Knock Sensor, PCV valve, IACV gasket while you're at it -Coolant hoses and water pump - keeping spares and waiting until failure -Adding a hitch for a tow point -Rocksliders -Probably upgrade from 31inch tires to 32 Hope this is helpful.

just barely used the sliders today, and found this difficult obstacle, which highlighted my need for a locker. With how the trail approaches this 2-3 foot step at a 90* angle, I couldn’t keep all of either my rear or front end perfectly in traction. I feel like a front locker would’ve pulled me right over. I’ll have the money here to swing one soon, but I’m worried about install-I don’t think I can do it myself

Looks to me like the rust started between the panels where they overlap. It's tough to protect metal when it's sandwiched together like that. Dirt and water wick in between and the seam rots from the inside out, and the rust that forms is bigger than the steel was, so it forces the seam apart. Seam sealer might've helped, at least for a while. I don't know where Nissan did or didn't put seam sealer on the R50s, but I don't see evidence of sealer in the pictures above. Engine heat and bracket placement probably didn't help, but IMO having an unprotected lap joint in a wheel arch was always going to cause problems.

Removing the shim will help with the positive camber. When you crank up the torsion bars it lift the front which pulls the tierods in closer giving you neg toe. You can do a diy alignment to get thr alignment closer to spec until get it professionally done. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

That does seem to be a poorly placed bracket. My theory is heat cycles from the cats/manifolds on the other side. Apparently this causes frame issues on old Explorers. I'm sure it's an unfortunate culmination of lots of things. I wonder if anybody from the southwest has had strut tower issues? I can't imagine just salt/snow is to blame, or else lots of other parts of the vehicle where it could collect should be showing rust.

Lift it some more and it will get rid of some of thr positive camber. Cut down the bumpstop until youre new low profiles come in. Drive around a bit with sandbags or weight in the back to help the springs settle in the rear. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I installed camber bolts on mine to correct negative camber because of the way it looked and it worked very well. It also raised the front of my vehicle up about an inch.. I can’t tell you if slight camber causes your tires to wear on the edge. I imagine they would wear a little more but not a lot. I can tell you that tie rods, control arm bushings, and wheel bearings will eat tires alive. Especially mud terrains.

Not to thread jack just trying to give a quick answer. No camber plates, camber bolts should be fine from my understanding for these vehicles. Camber is a large wear angle for your tire as it determines the size of your contact patch. For reference search: camber gang on google too see exaggerated instances on how negative camber leaves less tire touching the road. Pretend these slashes are your tires Neutral camber: I Negative Camber: / Postitive Camber: \ With neutral camber your entire tire when driving straight is on the road, but when cornering it shifts to an edge. With negative camber when driving straight you are riding more on the edge of your tire but flatten out in cornering (on my track car i run negative camber so it grips better while cornering) Typically when running camber you run a bit "less negative"(or more positive) camber on the driver side to correct for the road crown. Your vehicle will pull to which ever side is less negative. I do not remember the pros of running positive camber as my main focus has always been sports cars. Also i hear rock auto is the best place to get the camber bolts

Looking forward to seeing some updates here soon and actually seeing this truck just in general. Awesome build!

I am desperate for pictures on these "clips" and or how to go about it. I've removed all the screws and don't know where to even go to now. They are not looser, there is NOTHING defined so that it looks like a clip or whatever... I an staring at it, looking and listening and nothing and not even google has ANYthing beyond vague 10% of the job info. I just want to inspect for rust and clean the @&#33;*%.