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chev alternator in my '88 3.0!


octanevortex
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For the past few months, my alt. and my a/t temp light have been glowing on my '88. Voltage checks reveal below 12 volts @ idle.....alt. r/r time I guess! Local parts houses get around $100 or so exchange for these remans. So I decided to get a chev v-8 alt. and throw it on instead (pt#7126). This is a real common one that puts out around 75+ amps, so I figured that was enough. I've got power everything, stereo, what not, so I didn't want something weak. I owned a '94 Altima that I did this on sucessfully, but the pathfinder is almost like a factory replacement! Now, the install: no new brackets, I believe you have to swap out one bolt( it's been a little while since I did this, mind you). You must rotate the alt, i.e; remove the 4 alt case bolts and turn the alt to the next set of holes. DO NOT forget to hold the brushes up when rotating the case. Anyway, bat term goes to bat term,ground to the case,of course. And there are 2 terminals on the chev alt marked 1 and 2 . The Nissan alt harness also uses two connectors. I wish I took notes on this one, everybody, as to which wire goes where. But I remember it wasn't hard to figure out (do a delco remy alt terminal i.d. search) that's what I did. No need to swap out the pulley or fan or nothin! I got this alt on sale with a lifetime warranty for $17. And seriously, it took just a little over an hour to do.

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That sounds like some great information. If you can would you please post some pictures? And maybe the color code on the wires and which terminal each goes too (that would be very helpful)

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Swapping in the Maxima 90 amp alternator is bolt-in too.

Hmmm I think I might do one of these that since I'm planning on adding a 60x4 rms amp, a 200x1 rms amp, and some Hella driving lights from a BMW. That and my alt already has problems when I have my lights, stereo, wipers, turn signal, and heater on...

Edited by SC88Pathy
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I don't remember what year, but it seems like it was 90-up or so. They're about the same price IIRC.

Thanks, I 'll have to keep that in mind when I change it out next.

 

Crap deal about the forums though, Id like to P... The d*ck who screws people around like that.....

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You mention two terminals, so I am assuming you are referring to the super common 70's/early 80's SI series alternators? These were the ones with the mounting ears across from each other (180 degrees apart). In the mid '80's, GM switched to the larger, more powerful CS series - which have 4 contact connectors and mounting ears about 120 degrees offset.

 

If so, this could be way cool.... I have a pumped up 150 amp version collecting dust on a shelf in my garage!

 

I'll have to check it out, and if it looks good and I go for it, I will take pictures!

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Dohhh... I guess some of the CS series also came with 180 degree ears...

 

So the case cosmetics and connector style (2 spades = SI, four smaller contacts = CS) appear to be the real identifiers.

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I got my 3 Quest alternators for $75 total. They were all out of wrecks from a junkyard and each of them had less than 20,000 miles (basically new!). These were the VG33 125A version.

 

This is slightly less than bolt on, but I modified all three alternators so I could swap them quickly. No, I'm not willing to part with my spares.

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I got my 3 Quest alternators for $75 total.  They were all out of wrecks from a junkyard and each of them had less than 20,000 miles (basically new!).  These were the VG33 125A version.

 

This is slightly less than bolt on, but I modified all three alternators so I could swap them quickly.  No, I'm not willing to part with my spares.

this is the first time i hear you say that.. did you post up a writeup about it somewhere on here?

 

BTW. awesome mod octane.. thanks for sharing. welcome and enjoy your stay!! :clap: :cool2:

 

WAVEY

Edited by mzxtreme
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I just swapped in the 1990 Maxima 90 amp alternator. Only issue is swapping the pulley, which I forgot to take off my other pulley and ended up grinding the new pulley into a V.

Do you get to use the same belt? Or do you have to switch to a longer belt like with the Quest alt swap?

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More detail on the chev alt swap....I am referring to the standard "old" gm alt. that is probably laying in your garage somewhere, one bat term, and two spade connectors. On my original post, I mentioned rotating the alt case. This is, of course, to make the wiring easier and safe from the exhaust. So, as you look down at the G.M. alt (with all 4 case bolts removed), you would want to rotate the front half of the case (the one with the fan and pulley) counterclockwise until you reach the next set of available holes. You don't need to remove the fan/pulley/nut to do this, but you may have to gently pry the 2 halves apart. Which in turn, will make the brushes drop. So just make sure to use a paperclip/wire to hold the brush/spring assy. up until you've rotated, secured, and tightened the case bolts. I used the stock Nissan belt adj. mechanism, however, I think I drilled out the little adj. block slightly so the fact . chev alt. bolt (that comes with every reman/new alt) would fit. I've been running this $17 reman for 6 months now on my '88 VG 30, and haven't had as much as one squeaky belt or dead battery! This is one way you can get back at overpriced import parts and have a reliable cheap alt that won't take a lifetime to install!! You gotta try this one!!

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Cool! It sounds like I will be definitely pursuing (and photographing) this!

 

It sounds like you are referring to the very common 10SI version of GM alternator. If it is a metal fan behind the pulley, it is 10 SI. If metal and plastic composite fan (looks more like a disk) then it is the (usually) higher output 12SI. Both came in many outputs, from about 50 to well over 100 amps, 63 amp versions being extremely plentiful. They all look the same, so you need to buy from a reputable place to know what you're really getting. In general, the later the model, the higher the output - because electric radiator fans and power everything became more common. If you're going to a JY to find one, look for early 80's FWD tranverse V6 engined cars with high trim levels (power everything) as most seem to have had around 100 amp versions. And transversely mounted engines almost always have electric radiator fans, V6's needing very high power ones.

 

As an aside, the 10SI came with all 4 versions of clocking from the factory over the years - 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock - so it should be possible to do this swap without even needing to re-clock if you find the right alternator. For reference, the clocking refers to the location of the 2 spade terminals relative to the the thinner and threaded mounting lug as viewed from the rear.

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