iLLlegal Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 yeah so I just picked up some 0/1 gague cable a couple weeks back to do the "big 3" wire upgrade..if anyone has heard of this its upgrading your original wires (or just putting bigger ones in with the originals) that will go battery negative to ground, alternator positive to battery positive. and alternator to ground. as everyone one knows the alternator is in the best spot possible to do this upgrade pssd so to help me along...does anyone want to tell me what the best rought to get to my alt would be. :confused: thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 From underneath the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 Pull the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 and take ur carbon canister off the mount its on, u will see why Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iLLlegal Posted March 4, 2006 Author Share Posted March 4, 2006 when you mean from under the truck...like take off my skid plate. cuz that thing is welded on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deej Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 when you mean from under the truck...like take off my skid plate. cuz that thing is welded on Then refer to this \/ Pull the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 0/1 wire is WAY overkill. 4 gauge would be a lot more manageable. You simply don't need the 0/1 for a stock 60 amp alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 I have my own special method for the alternator removal.... First I take the drivers side wheel off for easy access at the bolts and such. Then I take the rad fan and shroud off, and I remove the alternator going forward and then up. I found the method to be quite simple, especially since it saves me the hassle of lying down on the muddy trail which is when those things like to fail. Taking the fan/shroud off is less than 2 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 when you mean from under the truck...like take off my skid plate. cuz that thing is welded on why Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 I can't speak for iLLlegal but I had a friend one time who did the same... One can only shear the bolts of so many times before getting tired of extracting them and finally fixing that problem forever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iLLlegal Posted March 4, 2006 Author Share Posted March 4, 2006 0/1 wire is WAY overkill. 4 gauge would be a lot more manageable. You simply don't need the 0/1 for a stock 60 amp alternator. well I have already bought the 0/1 at a pretty decent price..overkill mabey...but w/e i have the stuff and im gunna use it . and + i think im gunna go to pick n pull and see if i can find one of them nissan vans alt. I like the go through the wheelwell idea ill have to try that! thanks. as for the welding. I have no idea why anyone would do that. i could always phone the previous owner..cuz he is my dads friend but "shrugs" i dont really care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 Cut the welds off your skidplate. Remove the alternator (takes less than 5 mins.) BOLT your skidplate back on, chances are if you wheel your truck hard, it won't be the last time you need to get that sucker out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 i'm guessing the 1/0 is for big amps, etc? do a quest alternator while your under there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 With my BL I can reach right in over the wheel and through the gap to access mine easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramithepimp77 Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Wish I had my BL when I switched out 5 alts in a month! No BL + Monster hands = NOT fun taking out the ALT! Rami Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 1/0 is used for very high current applications - It is rated for 245 amps continuous, or 150 amps continuous if fully enclosed. I am uysing it in Frankenvan from the main battery to starter, and from the main battery to house batteries in the rear. 4 AWG is rated for 135 amps continuous, which is why it is commonly used with big alternators - like the Nissan Quest. FYI, 8 AWG is 73 amps. Good enough for stock alternator! If you need to run the wire more than 5 feet, it is a good idea to go one size larger to avoid excessive voltage drop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 THANK YOU for starting this thread! After my entry last night, I got to thinking. I had no idea what size GM used on Frankenvan, so let's check it out. Only 8 AWG! And it is equipped with a 110 amp alternator. And the wire runs from the alternator on the driver's side of the engine across to passenger side and into the densely packed MAIN wiring loom, and then back across the firewall and finally to the battery. On the driver's side. At least 6'. The 8 AWG would be barely adequate with stock single battery in good condition as the alternator would almost never be asked to put out full current for more than a minute or two. But my alternator could be asked to recharge 5 batteries concurrently. That could result in quite a bit of heat being generated in the main wiring loom. Not to mention significant voltage drop! So I decided to fix it. Went to loosen the attachment nut and the wire terminal broke when I touched it - it must have been flexed back in forth several times in it's previous life to be that weak... So now it is a piece of 4 AWG welding cable DIRECT to the battery, about 2' long. Fully exposed to cooling air. Mucho better! -bounce- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 i'm guessing the 1/0 is for big amps, etc? do a quest alternator while your under there To bad you dont have a big amp(or any amp) to actually use that wire, eh? seriously tho, no use in getting a 110 quest amp if your gona run a big amp soon(say like a Orion 2500D, ya know, somthing that LMT would love) and your stock alt in fine. to much work for no benifit.save the money for an amp. but anywho, your gona find that 1/0 is gona be a HUGE PITA to snake throug the engine bay. HUGE! specially if its welding wire. I used 0/2 for my amp install, ran it from the batt across the bay to the drivers side(fallowed fire wall) then inside the passanger compartment. PITA! never mind tring to snake it in the front of the motor. cut that skid off the front. if you have A/C I unno how your gona get the alt out without goin from the bottom... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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