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*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST

Which Suspension lift package?


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Which Suspension Package should I go with?  

171 members have voted

  1. 1. Which Suspension Package should I go with?

    • AC 2" lift, GR-2 front struts and Bilstein Shocks for the rear, Nissan strut mounts
      34
    • AC 2" lift, GR-2 front struts and Rancho RS9000X Shocks for the rear, Nissan strut mounts
      23
    • AC 2" lift, GR-2 front struts and Rancho RS5000 Shocks for the rear, Nissan strut mounts
      12
    • AC 2" lift, Rancho front struts and Rancho RS5000 Shocks for the rear, Nissan strut mounts.
      11
    • AC 2" lift, Rancho front struts and Rancho RS9000x Shocks for the rear, Nissan strut mounts.
      20
    • OME HD ($$$): OME HD Springs, OME Shocks, OME Struts, Nissan strut mounts
      67


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You don't have to replace the shocks, but since everything else is 'new' most folks do them at the same time. Any shock will work. I like Emu's, they are pretty stout.

 

I really don't know how much lift I have now that the Emu's are about 3 years old. The rear does sit higher than the front, but levels out when I'm loaded for a trip. It certainly does seem like the rear, empty, gets closer to 2 inches of 'lift' than the 1 inch Emu states. Up front I'd say 1 inch is realistic. Mine may be lower from the TJM bumper, or maybe the coils have fatigued more up front since they are always under load (engine weight).

 

The spacers that Rocky Road sells are NOT 9/16, as advertised - they are 1/4 inch, steel, cut to fit the top of the strut tower. Not the greatest workmanship, but at $30/pr delivered it was way easier than trying to fab a set of one-off's. I haven't put them on, and probably won't until I get the winch. The extra weight of the winch is when I think I may want the extra 1/4 inch up front. With R50's, if an odd aftermarket part comes out I usually buy it figuring they may not have the demand for a continued production run.

 

I can post a picture, but they aren't much - just a steel spacer painted black with 3 holes drilled in it.

 

m.

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Problem is I have to get a shop to install the suspension because I will certainly screw everything up and don't have a floor jack or spring thingy.

You know, some people would take this as a chance to learn and buy new tools ;)

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Don't replace your stock shocks unless you have a lot of miles on them. I actually switched back to stock and like the ride much better. The Emu shocks, while tough enough, are a bit too stiff and bouncy over smal bumps.

 

I like the way the truck absorbs road imperfections while still being stiffer than stock due to the Emu springs. The stock shocks do a better job of controlling the springs.

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I for one love the new corner abillity I got from the all OME set up....and HARBINGER...I did just what you said...took a day and bought some new tools! I previously had shot rear shocks, so maybe I have no idea what the stockers would have felt like but I am content anyhow.

 

I am sticking to 2", I def got 2 in the rear and the front was only 3/4" for me, so adding the 1.16" steel strut spacers in the front got me to a total of about 2" overall...the heat is on now since I have a taste of lift though...I am trading out the 30.?? inch 255/70/16's for a set of 265/75/16's to get myself that other 1+" upper!!! P...

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Correct me if I am wrong, but going from a 30x9.5 (metric) to a 31x10.5 only adds

1/2" of clearance depending on tire pressure... right?

 

Nonetheless, I am also looking at 31s for my next set of tires, and can't wait to see

what they look like with the OME springs! :cool2:

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Correct me if I am wrong, but going from a 30x9.5 (metric) to a 31x10.5 only adds

1/2" of clearance depending on tire pressure... right?

 

Nonetheless, I am also looking at 31s for my next set of tires, and can't wait to see

what they look like with the OME springs! :cool2:

It actually takes away from clearance by 1/2" on the inside of the tire and adds 1/2" ground clearance at the bottom and takes away 1/2" fender clearance if that makes sense.

 

31"X10.5" are a good choice of tire :aok:

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Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference

255/70-16 7.0in 15.0in 30.1in 94.4in 671 0.0%

265/75-16 7.8in 15.8in 31.6in 99.4in 637 5.3%

 

I am going to gain about .75" in height, which is good enough for me....unless you guys think that a bigger tire would fit (doubt that) and in that case I would indeed get that!!! ;)

 

I am going with the Bridgestone AT REVO's, they do make them larger but I had serious dobts that I could get them to fit and be able to use them at such a larger size.....can I call the 265/75-16 a 32"???

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I guess this is more of a general suspension question, but what else should be replaced while I'm swapping out the springs and shocks/struts? I know manual hubs are recommended. I think I saw that AC recommends a camber kit to go with their lift.

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It goes on top of this piece, and I believe that I have it upside down in the picture...XPLORx4 are you out there to help with this one??

 

In fact I am almost positive that that is upside down on the shock in my pic!! The lipped edge sits inside of the rest of the assembly that pivots on top.

post-7-1137385437.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Still debating between AC and OME...

 

The four OME coils will cost me a total of like $310 shipped; the AC will be $450

shipped if I include the camber align (is that needed for the OMEs?). The question:

will the 1" difference between the two setups be worth the extra cash?? I am in

doubt that it is...

 

Anyways, 98Silverpathy, your setup is niiiice. Where did you get the 1" strut

spacers and how much were they? And will they require the manual hubs for

CV joint protection?

 

P.S. This is a very informative post, too, perhaps it could be pinned with the other

lift options topic...

Edited by dkpath96
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The AC vs Emu decision... definately a tough one! Incidently that poll is misleading because I haven't heard of anyone running the Emu struts yet, most have KYB w/ Emu coils.

 

The question is: how much difference does an inch make? If you have skids/sliderz I think you can get through the same trails with either coils, but you may be driving on the sliderz more. It would be fun to follow an AC pathy with an Emu pathy and see just what situations the extra inch actually allowed passage. I went with Emu coils because the difference wasn't enough to overcome the topping out issue, and at the time my pathy was seeing more hwy miles. I felt the Emu suspension was easier to deal with since my state has been proposing inspection laws that prohibit lifts on ABS vehicles (still in discussion). And it seemed even with the AC lift I was still limited to 31 inch tires. Ground clearance at the axles is what ultimately limits you off road, and since that measurement stays the same, I went with Emu's and full skids/sliderz. Now that I have Goodyear MT/Rs I notice better performance because that is one fantastic tire.

 

The AC lift will increase the approach/departure angles slightly, which is always helpful. And you'll get the extra inch at the rocker panels, which is helpful in deep water or snow, but your A-arms and pumpkin hieght will remain unchanged.

 

The whole lifting thing - always chasing bigger tires - there is a saying 'Locked not Lifted' which suggests a locker will go alot farther than a lift in actual off-road performance. That is the reason the 1960s Land Rover Classics traversed most of the continents roadless terrain on 29 inch tires.

 

I've gone wheelng with jeepers who simply said there was no way I would be able to make it up the trail, since they all had 33-38 tires. Well, I did make it, and they were surprised. It took more time to pick a line, and few tries at some obstacles, but I enjoy the challenge. It makes you a better driver, and you learn how to work within the limits of your vehicle. Incidently, that day ended with me towing the biggest jeep out for 20 miles on dirt roads when he broke it.

 

The camber adj bolts - it aligned fine for 2 years with the Emu suspension, but this winter the shop installed camber bolts to align it. I don't really understand why that is, perhaps the coil fatigue, but it still puzzles me what would wear to make that needed on the 3rd season.

 

I do have the spacers from Rocky Road - called 'trim packers' and they are only about 1/4 inch tall. I haven't installed them yet - I'm putting a winch on this season and will do new Emu coils and the spacers at that time, to help offset the weight of the TJM and M8000.

 

Whatever coils you get, they will probably be due for replacement in 2 or 3 seasons of trail use, so you can revisit it in the future. Maybe by then we can jump to a 4 inch and 33's.

 

m.

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I am running all EMU and couldn't be happier. I can't imagine being able to get any more control out of the truck itself. The "wow" and "Flutter" if you will is amazing, taking those 25 mph off/on ramps at 40+ is amazing.

 

The spacers were custom made local and the want a ton to make them...they are 3/4 inch plate steel...retail $160. I should have just had them burn out a set of 1" instead of using theirs plus the trim packer.

 

Camber alignment...that's a tough one. I did get warn hubs to shut off the cv joints...they are fun to replace pssd . I had to do one anyway just shortly after the lift as it were. I don't think that the angle is very bad, but I had saw a signifigant raise in MPG after changing the hubs.

 

The shop that did mybrakes for inspection when I got the truck jammed the entire assembly on....too damn tight. When you put on new bearing seals in the back of the rotor and bearing assembly you are to torq the whole thing down to like 70 ft/lbs then back it off and hand tighten...they missed the second half of this so there was gobs of resistance up front. By changing the hubs, rotors, bearing seals, grease, and installing all of this the correct way, my wheels spin many fold easier than they did. This allowed me to see that 14-16 in town and increase to 19 highway. Since I bought my 265/75/16 REVO's I have seen a drop in economy but that is yet to be completely measured.

 

This week I m replacing a ball joint on the pass. side then next week it is going for an alignment. I will ask my guy specifically what he thinks of the camber issue.

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herm and 98silverpathy,

 

Thanks for the great posts! I also do mostly commuter/highway miles (until

summer rolls around, then it's trails) and am leaning towards Old Man Emu.

 

For the both of you - after the break-in period, were you still seeing around 2"

of lift in the rear, 1+" lift in the front (no spacers)?

 

And what would be the problem of stacking two 9/16" spacers - or are they not

made to allow that?

 

My stock coils are giving me an axle to fender height of 19" front, 20" rear, in case

you need some reference...

Edited by dkpath96
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My spacers from Rocky Road measure 1/4 inch, not the 9/16 they advertised. I don't see why you couldn't stack them. They are cheap to buy, I think mine were $30 shipped.

 

I did a quick measurement (center of hub to fender lip, no flares) and my rear is 21 and front 19.5. I have a TJM up front and about 250 lbs of gear in the cargo area. The front coils have settled down, I think they are getting tired - when I eyeball them they appear pretty darn compressed just sitting still. I've been lurking on some Land Rover and Land Cruiser boards and it seems people do replace the Emu coils every 3 seasons or so due to sag.

 

The other variable is twofold - I measured it parked on an uneven surface, and it's cold here - below freezing. I'll see if I can find level ground, like a car wash bay, and see if it measures the same.

 

I don't know what to make of the relative differences we see in pathy suspension measurements. I see other stock R50s in parking lots that look lifted, but they aren't.

 

I'll do new front coils and the 1/4 inch spacers as part of the winch install.

 

m.

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Totally agree,

I have ssen pathys that look lifted and are not, but when you gt up on them with a lift the difference shows up quick then!!

 

Disagree with the 1/4" spacer ditch the crap and get some made and get about 1" or greater like 1.5"...with Warn's of course. You can definately bolt 2 together I did bolt my Rocky Road trim spacers and my 3/4" spacers together to get that 1"....I used grade 8 hardware all the way around so it will probably snap and not bend first but, the area in the strut towers sees more turning than flex....Ihope that somone more skilled in off roading like VENGE or XPLORx4 chimes in.

 

Venge had his uni body tear a little so I would think he has a strong idea of how much flex goes on there!! HELP!!!! :help:

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98Silverpathy,

 

You wouldn't happen to have a blueprint or template or something for those

strut spacers available on paper, eh? I have access to a metal shop and a plasma cutter

that would do a nice job at making those spacers. My only other option would

be to buy one from Rocky Road and use it as a template...

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Thanks Entropy98, that's cool that your pathy is on the Rocky Road site.

 

I just ordered the OME front HD springs, rear medium springs, and a set of the

Warn manual hubs!! I can't wait to get everything and start building up my pathy.

 

NPORA forums are PRICELESS! :aok:

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Has anyone installed the HD springs and the spacer from rocky-road yet? I am curious to see how much lift is actually accomplished, and see what size tires will fit? I am unhappy with my decision to install medium OME springs up front. I purchased them about a year ago before they came out with the 1.75" lift. My pathy looks like a drag car.

Thanks guys...

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I did the same thing and resorted to buying the HD coils later. Wish someone would have told me before I bought them the first time. I know that 98silver pathy did that set up and leveled it out nicely. About the tires i would still say that 31's are about as big as you can go without doing some major trimming.

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