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Entropy98

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Everything posted by Entropy98

  1. Spacers were some of the first ever made and where done by a shop close to home. I will just reuse the nuts/bolts. So what is going to be the strut that is build stronger and can take a beating? KYB vs. Gabriel? We wheel multiple times a year in Moab so it takes somewhat of a beating. Hence the STRONGER option would be better. Thanks, Tyler
  2. I guess the next best question is what is going to be the best replacement option for a vehicle that gets wheeled regularly? Is KYB the way to go or should I consider Rancho, or Monroe?
  3. Sorry but is the Excel-G the same as the GR-2. Looks different to me and I want the GR-2. I have been happy with them for the last 6 to 7 years.
  4. I have not been on here in forever but am planning on replacing my struts soon. Was wondering if I could get some info from you guys. 1. Part number for the KYB Gr-2 struts driver and passenger side. I don't want to get stuck with the Excel-G strut that they have now. 2. Other than the strut mounts/bearings, are there other parts that are suggested that need replacement. 3. I have one inch spacers on top of the struts. What is the size and length of the Grade 8 bolts that are used? I could figure this out when replacing the struts but I don't want to have to run anywhere to pick stuff up during the job. Thanks for the help in advance, Tyler
  5. I will be doing this soon. Does anyone have a link to the video mentioned in the previous post? Any heads up also on making the job easier would be appreciated as well.
  6. So with the symptoms I think that I am going to change the MAF sensor. Is there going to be any huge difference between an Auto store MAF vs. Nissan dealer MAF other than cost? If there are no significant differenced I am going to get a MAF sensor from somewhere other than the stealership. Thanks,
  7. So the code reads P0100. Checked the MAF, and cleaned all of the grounds that I could find. One of the vacume hoses could have potentially been letting air in, so i tightened the hose clamp so there was no play. We will see if that helps. That is unless anyone else has any ideas.
  8. So recenly my engine has just shut off while driving on the freeway randomly. Once the engine is to temp the RPM's will jump around and almost stall. I have changed spark plugs, coolant, belts (one of the pulleys chirps at start up), and cleaned the MAF and the intake filter. The check engine light came on and had three codes. 1. Open or short circuit condition 2. MAF/VAF sensor failure 3. Faulty ECM Ideas on where to start?
  9. Yeah I have all the PDF files of the service manual, and have looked at them extensively. Today I pulled everything apart, and have decided to take the baffle plate attached to the axle shaft to a company with a press. They will replace everything in the bearing cage including the grease seal, then press it all back onto the axle shaft. Unfortunately I have to wait till Monday to get this done. While I am at it I am also going to relace the oil seal as well as all the brake components. Thanks,
  10. Hey I have not been on the boards for quite sometime, but I need a little help/advice. I think that the rear pass axle bearing grease seal is leaking causing grease to get into the rear drum. Because of this there is no breaking power in the rear pass side. I am planning on replacing this my self and am looking for some heads up if anyone has done this before. Can I just pull the axle shaft, and replace the outer seal, or do I have to pull the bearing cage and replace/repack everything inside? Thanks, Tyler
  11. Not brake fluid, and slaves were replace with the brakes.
  12. Thanks, I am right outside of Charlotte right now. You should check out my pics on PhotoBucket (link in profile). On the 16th of this month we will be moving back to the great state of Utah. Anyone with any info on the possible axle leak?
  13. So I replaced the rear drums and shoes last month and did not feel that I gained any breaking power. I know that it would not be much, but did not feel much of a difference. So I pulled the rear right drum off and it seems that I have grease/oil that has covered a portion of the drum, and about 3/4" of the shoe. If I have a leak from the axle how involved will it be to fix and what parts will I need? I cleaned it up with break cleaner, put it back together and am going to look again tomorrow to see if there is more grease/oil that has leaked out. Thanks, Tyler
  14. Go big or go home. 32" all the way!!
  15. Sweet!!! Thanks for the fast responce will do it tonight.
  16. LSV Spring? What does it stand for and were is it found? I will give it a try.
  17. Not to change the subject but I have a question. Ever since upgrading to 32" tires braking has decreased as would be expected. I changed the rear drums and shoes recently which helped to improve braking, but I still feel that it is lacking (even replaced all of the brake fluid). If I were to upgrade to the brake lines mentioned above am I going to see a significant improvement? I do understand that braking performance is going to suffer with larger tires, I am just trying to gain as much braking power back as possible. Thanks,
  18. Well the job is done and it was not as bad as I thought. One of the shoes was not attached to the backplate when I opened it up, and on the other side the cylinder was leaking like a siv. No wonder I had no stopping power. The springs came off easy, and I ran through 2 cans of brake fluid. Ended up having to buy new drums, because one was warped and once turned was out of spec. Replaced both cylinders while I was at it. I would recommend to anyone over 100k, replace your shoes if not every working part in the rear braking system. Thanks for the info!
  19. Does anyone know of a good write up for drum brake replacement/overhaul? I think that I am going to do the project this week, and have never done this before. Anything that I should watch out for or know about before starting the project? Will be replacing all the parts with the exception of the drums which I will be turning. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Tyler
  20. Thanks, I will post up pics soon.
  21. The link that showed the offset automatically put 285/75R16 in as a default. I know that would never work with the AC lift. 265/75R16 is what I plan on running. The exact dimentions are 10.5" section width, and 31.9" radius. The problem is test fitting when I am buying online. Don't know how easy it is to return if the wheels don't work. I am assuming that these would work better? 4.25 BS
  22. So I think this might be the one. Can anyone difinatively tell me if this rim will work with 32" tires and still clear the strut. This should suck the tire in a bit because of the backspacing/offset. My link 2 I also found this link that helps to explain how offset and BS works. Calculator
  23. I am planning on getting some black steel wheels like the ones that I have now. The reason for the switch is that I am getting new tires and the tires I want only fit the 16" rim. 1. What are some good sites that I can get some cheap wheels from? 2. What is the closest backspacing that I can do that will barley clear the strut with 32" wheels. 3. Any one around NC that would like to buy the wheel/tires that I have on my truck now? Goodyear MT/R 32x11.50R15 with about 40% tread. The wheels that I have now stick out a bit more than I would like. I think that they are 4.25" BS. Tyler

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