Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Entropy98

Members
  • Posts

    164
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Entropy98

  1. I ran a whole can of sea foam through my enginge and one in the gas tank. Before I did it I had a tick when starting the engine cold and have not had it since. It also restored lost power. Not a ton but has a little more kick. I would recomend it to anyone who wants to clean there engine.
  2. Change fuel filter, replace spark plugs, rotor/cap, run some SEA Foam through the engine. I have done all of these things and seemed to make a little difference. I might just be loaded on crack also. J/K
  3. Sound a little more violent than what I was experiencing but here is a link that might give you some insight hope it helps. CLICK HERE I had the some vibration between 40, and 50. Got new tires and it helped a bit, but what the link says is what fixed mine. Have you experienced any front end play when you go over bumps? If so it could also be your tie rod ends getting loose. That is what my problem was.
  4. If you do cat back have them y pipe it with 2.25 inch to a single in, and 2.5 single out. Muffler take your pick I have a Magna Flo and have been happy with it.
  5. Correct!!! You can also find some spacers that you can stack to acheive 1 inch at Rocky Road. Click Here
  6. Do you mind elaborationg on the Detroit locker a little more? Rear shafts from where? What else is needed? Why has no one ever done this before?
  7. I have not had problems with my 1 inch spacers so far. I do have the hubs though.
  8. Did you end up trimming the front and rear on the front wheel well? If you have pics of what you trimmed that would be nice to see. Pathy looks good!!!
  9. So lately I have had play in the steering. Even after an alignment it has a little play in it. So the question is could some one list from the steering wheel to the tie rod every single peice that is involved in my steering so that I can start to trouble shoot the situation. it is getting old and I am ready to tear it all apart to find what is loose. I replaced the steering rack bushings, got an alignment, I do have one torn cv, and possibly a bent tie rod, but I can't see it, and that is going off what the guys at the shop said, even at that they were not sure. To me it feels like something is loose somewhere along the line. Hopefully something just needs to be tightened. So let me know so I can start the tear down. Pictures, and or a verbal explanation of parts would be appreciated. In a linear order if possible Steering wheel to the tie rods. Thanks a ton guys, Tyler
  10. With the lift it rides like a truck should. I love the ride with the lift on, before it rode like a mini-van.
  11. I have the camber adjustment bolts so there should be no problems there.
  12. Ok so I have change the steering rack bushings, repacked the bearings, had the wheels balanced, and I still have a front end vibration going on. It usually happens in the 40-50 mph range and when stopping, but does happen randomly at other speeds. I did just put the 1 inch spacer on the front end in addition to the AC lift. After the AC lift install I had an allignment done. Then I put the spacers on, and have only had the wheels balanced after that. Do you think that I need another alignment to take care of the problem, or do you think that something else is wrong? Oh yeah, when I changed my steering rack bushings, the rack it self did move (shift) a little to the drivers side and has not been alligned since. When driving on dirt roads, or hitting pot holes there is also a bit of a Kluncking noise that comes from something in the steering. Any info will help I am willing to try anything. Thanks, Tyler Help!!! :help:
  13. That looks good. For the rear shocks you can use the Kyb gas adjust I don't know the price on those but you could also but in there place the Ranco 5000 or 9000. It might be a little chaper that way.
  14. Mine were only one year old I just sold them to Alex and used that money for the AC lift. The OME shocks do have more travel than oem but not as much as the ones from AC.
  15. If you are going with the OME coils I would get the shocks that allow longer travel from AC. The struts you will save alot of money by getting KYB they are just as good if not better. I just don't know why you would want to put OME shock on with a 2" lift coils then limit your self with the OME shocks. They have a shorter travel length than the ones from AC. (i.e. Rancho 5000 or 9000)
  16. Alex will be trying some time soon. He has a one inch spacer with the HD coils and I think that he might just pull it off.
  17. I bent one of mine the other day and am wondering if I should replace it? I just used a hammer to bend it back into shape and it fit on there just fine.
  18. About the OME front coils do the HD it levels it out much better.
  19. Where are you in UT. There are a few of us that are doing a MOAB run here soon if you would like to go!!!
  20. Magnaflo is what I run and love it. About the lift here are some before and after. Oem vs AC lift. Hope that makes you decision easier!!!
  21. If you have them do a cat-back have them do a Y pipe that leads into the muffler. 2.25 in and 2.5 out. That way you won't loose any low end power. I had them do 2x2.25 into the muffler and 2.5 out. It works good and all but I did notice a little less low end power troughout the range.

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...