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Stupid EVAP Code


DJ Dank
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Boy talk about timing. I'm in Seattle for the holidays and thats when I always renew my tabs. This year I'm required an Emissions test.

 

On the way there this morning, my SES light comes on! :angry: Its the usual P0440 Evap Emissions code. Been getting it off and on since I've had the vehicle and after a few days it dissapears. Its been months since I've last had it lit.

 

Its Friday and they close in a few hours. I won't be able to get back there until Tuesday due to the holiday weekend, and I head back to Spokane on Tuesday too...GRRR.

 

My plan is to disconnect the battery and hope that it will turn off and not come back on during my 20 minute drive back to the Emissions place.

 

'Effin EVAP Code... :(

Edited by DJ Dank
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Ok things are not good. Its Tuesday morning about 1:30am...I'm leaving in the morning sometime for my 4.5 hour drive back to Spokane.

 

Well I disconnected the battery on Friday after I failed the initial attempt. After an hour or so, the SES light was cleared and I thought I was all good. WRONG. I made it there just in time on Friday before they closed for the weekend but when they hooked up the OBDII sensor, it said that my Sensors were not ready. :angry: They say it takes about 2-3 days or about 50 miles of driving to set their "readiness."

 

Well tonight, I guess the sensor achieved "readiness" as the SES light came back on. :(:(:(

 

Soooo my question is, can I just change my address to a non-emissions county address? Even after its on record that I've failed my 1st test? Do I have to show some proof of address? Just wondering how easy it really is to go this route? *edit* after some browsing on the WA DOL site, looks like you can do a change of address online...interesting...

 

Right now the only choice I have is to drive back to Spokane and hope that the SES light turns off before the END of the month!!! :X :( Get an emissions test in Spokane, fax it over to the parents here in Tacoma and have them go get my tabs and mail them to me. :confused:

 

Can someone verify for me that although my car is registered in Pierce County, I can go to Spokane county and get my emissions test there and fax those results back to Tacoma since I'm on such a time contraint.

Edited by DJ Dank
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if it works the same as california (a quick call to your local DMV office will handle that).. your emissions test goes directly to the DMV computers.. which means wherever you smog yer pathy it automatically shows up... my pathy is registered to my brothers address because here i live in the corridor of car theft capitol of CA and insurance is more.... ;)

if/when you call the dmv just tell them you are gunna be outta town when the smog is due so can you smog it in the county yo will be staying... ;)

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You should be able to get a smog test in any county that requires it, regardless of where your car is registered. As long as it is registered in an county requiring an emissions inspection, you will have to get that done. You can register the car to a different address, and if the new address is not in a emissions-regulated county, only a safety inspection is required regardless if you just failed.

 

As far as the readiness codes- that is accurate what they told you.

 

Why don't you try and find the evap leak?

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I've been through the same thing DJ.

 

Though, in VA they don't hook up the OBD2 scanner if there isn't an SES. SES isn't an automatic fail either, they run the codes and if its something non-emissions related, they'll just be like, you've got such and such a code, might want to get that checked out.

 

I just hook up my OBD2 reader while waiting in line and clear the codes....heheh.

 

As far as finding the EVAP leak, I've spend about $1100 replacing the entire EVAP system on my truck to no avail, I still get the damn codes. Things I've replaced:

 

EVAP canister

EVAP Vent Control Valve

EVAP Purge control Valve

hoses and lines

fuel tank

fuel filler neck

fuel filler hose

gas cap

fuel lines

 

It's imposssible that it's still leaking unless there is a defective design someplace. I think that there is a problem with the sensors which trips the codes.

 

DJ, do you smell gas above the drivers rear wheel when you have the code?

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I've been through the same thing DJ.

 

Though, in VA they don't hook up the OBD2 scanner if there isn't an SES. SES isn't an automatic fail either, they run the codes and if its something non-emissions related, they'll just be like, you've got such and such a code, might want to get that checked out.

 

I just hook up my OBD2 reader while waiting in line and clear the codes....heheh.

 

As far as finding the EVAP leak, I've spend about $1100 replacing the entire EVAP system on my truck to no avail, I still get the damn codes. Things I've replaced:

 

EVAP canister

EVAP Vent Control Valve

EVAP Purge control Valve

hoses and lines

fuel tank

fuel filler neck

fuel filler hose

gas cap

fuel lines

 

It's imposssible that it's still leaking unless there is a defective design someplace. I think that there is a problem with the sensors which trips the codes.

 

DJ, do you smell gas above the drivers rear wheel when you have the code?

Yeah its frustrating as hell. I am about to leave for Spokane right now. I'm about to start the car up and if by some miraculous act of god the SES is off, I'll go smog it now! LOL. But I doubt it.

 

I've been reading up on this for a while and dealing with this for a while too...digging up all of Vengie's posts about his EVAP codes...I swear every hit I got in doing a search for "evap", "canister" and "purge", Vengeful was in the post. LOL. I may just go to the junkyard and try to find a canister. I remember I got p0440 along with p1448 at one time...the Vent Control Valve.

 

Now is the VCV part of the canister??? I can just swap out the whole canister? I believe reading in a previous thread that those suckers aren't cheap?

 

I just hook up my OBD2 reader while waiting in line and clear the codes....heheh.

 

Thats different than disconnecting the battery and lettingthe readiness monitors/sensors reset? I mean I can DO that? I tried that previous and wasn't able to get a complete test so I have to restest.

 

So I'm outta here. I'll be back on when I'm back in SPokane later today! Thanks for the help and replies guys and gals~~! :)

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Using the OBD2 scanner is basically the same as disconnecting the battery and leaving it off for about 15 minutes. It resets the ECU and all the sensors. It does show them as being NOT READY, but like I said..VA doesn't check if there's no MIL indicator.

 

Yes, DJ, you are correct, the VCV is attached the canister. The EVAP Purge Control Valve (Not to be confused with the PCV Valve!!!!!!!!!!!!!) is under the hood - your PDF Factory Service Manual that you can find right in the R50 section will have a nice diagram showing you the locations and the whole EVAP system in detail. Nissan did something stupid with the R50s and the EVAP system is not EXACTLY the same between any of the 96-99 model years. There ARE some interchangable parts. For example, in 97, the EVAP canister was mounted under the hood, but in 98, its behind the drivers rear wheel.... :huh:

 

Good luck, and hope everything works out for ya bud....I've given up on trying to get rid of it...I actually think somethings wrong with my truck when the SES Light ISN'T on...LOL.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well folks, I believe my EVAP issue my have been solved! :crosses fingers::

 

Ended up being one of the vacuum hoses connected to the canister was bad. So the shop I took it to, diagnosed it, replaced the vacuum hose, reset the MIL, set the readiness monitors, AND took the car to the emissions place themselves and passed the test for me.

 

Excellent service IMO. Spokane guys, I went to Tune Tech, on N. Monroe. Took 2 hours total, and I paid $50. I'm OK with that because I was thinking that I was going to spend over $150 so that I'd qualify for the Emissions Waiver. In WA state, if you spend at least $150 in diagnostic/repair fees, AFTER your initial test fail, you can get a waiver which is the same as a PASS; regardless if the problem was fixed or not. Just as long as you spend $150 at an Authorized emissions repair shop. :blink:

 

I thought they would say that I would need this and that and it would total up to at least $150. But instead, they got me to pass the emissions test by actually fixing it! :clap:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I THOUGHT the problem was fixed...It was fixed long enough to pass my emissions but today as I was driving, the SES light came back on!!!! :(:(:angry::angry:

 

They hold told me they had replaced a vacuum hose. Hmm..I'll have to take it back there and see what they're going to say now. :contract:

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Well I THOUGHT the problem was fixed...It was fixed long enough to pass my emissions but today as I was driving, the SES light came back on!!!! :(  :(  :angry:  :angry:

 

Welcome to my world! WAVEY Though, my SES light has been on for so long, I think something's WRONG when it's NOT on...hah.

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  • 1 month later...

Digging up an old post...

 

Virginia has changed their emissions requirements, and all they do now is hook you up to the computer to make sure there aren't any emissions related codes while the sensors are ready. I was unaware of this, and used my scantool to clear it out and, naturally, the sensors weren't ready when I went in to get my truck smogged. I thought they still put the sniffer in the tailpipe, I wish they still did, because I pass that with flying colors....stupid EVAP!!!!

 

Also, I've got an O2 sensor code which would fail me, and an idle control malfunction code which would fail me. The knock sensor wouldn't fail me.

 

DAMNIT!!! :furious:

 

Well...it looks like I'm just going to be registering the vehicle in Arizona. Though Phoenix has emissions requirements, too, but at least I have until the end of July to fix the problem. :idea:

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Man that sucks Dan. You're in the same boat I was over Christmas. Well I just got back from a 1500 mile trip to Yellowstone/Wyoming yesterday and the car drove great. Usually on these long trips, the SES light will come on at one point during the trip.

 

But its been 3 months now and NOTHING! I think I might have correctly diagnosed my EVAP problem. Only took 3 years! The guy pulled the Vent control valve off from the evap canister after removing a couple of bolts, and then if you look inside you'll see the Valve mechanism which moves up and down to vent the gas.

 

Spray some wd-40 in that baby and you're good to go! All those mud and water crossings got the valve stuck.

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  • 4 years later...

I need to get my '97 emission-tested, so the SES light and the p0446 code that have kept me company for 4 years have to go. Are the EVAP/Vapor Canisters for '97 interchangeable with those from 98-2000? The pricing on a few sites makes it seem like they changed canisters for a couple years, then went back to the '97 style for '02-'04. Any suggestions you can give would be appreciated, I'm about to get in under mine and take a hacksaw to the frozen bolts holding the valve to the canister if no amount of bolt de-freezer does the job.

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i skipped a lot of reading...basically all of it...check this....on the EGR you should have 2 valves...there is a small valve between the 2..i bet that rubber hose is broken in half...i chased it forever and actually found it when i did my engine pull out of my 95 and put it in my 87

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