Duffman Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 ARRRRRRGGGGGGgggggg!!!!111+1 Sorry, just needed to ventm its 11:00 and I got the easy side off, the lower y connecter is practicly made of rust and I cant get any thing out, and I almost lost a finger trying to start on the drivers side (the hard side). Mabey tomarow moringing things will be better....pray for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 **gets down on her knees and PURRRRRRAYYYYYYS to the Pathy Gods** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I don't know about praying ot the pathy gods but with a reciprocating saw and a handful of bi-metal blades and you will see the light of day. Hack every thing up to the flange connection for the pipe with the O2 sensor. It all trash anyway. Wear some safety glasses or better yet goggles there Pizanio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duffman Posted July 19, 2005 Author Share Posted July 19, 2005 hey thats not a bad idea..... brb! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duffman Posted July 19, 2005 Author Share Posted July 19, 2005 anyone have any advise on taking off the lower drivers side manifold bolts? I can feel them and put a socket on them but I dont have room to turn them, tried a 4", 12" extension. I was thinking a deep 12mm socket? Is the EGR line that goes to the drivers manifold completly removable? The bottom that connects to the manifold came out alright, but the top piece wont budge and I really dont want to break it! The Any who have done this without taking the engine out, I would love to hear you methods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Yes.. the EGR valve is completely removeable. I took mine off. Depending what ehaders you're installing.. I had a LOT of trouble getting my EGR valve back in.. had to do some tweaking and bending.. think old age had a lot to do with it though... I have Thorleys btw.. and best to lay on the ground for those header bolts towards the back of the motor.. that's where I was.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacoman Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Installed thorleys about a month or two ago: Getting the manifold nuts is a pain that has to be worked through. An air rachet helps. Some are easy with deep sockets some not. Used wobble sockets and universal joints. Just take it easy. I think I spent at least 12hours on the entire installation. Changed studs. All came out easy. None were broke. Don't trash the intermediate tube with the o2 sensor. New one from Nissan is listed at $700. Checked a couple of places. Napa sells a replacement tube with the wrong size bung for the O2 sensor for about $50. I had to grind the heads off the bolts with a die grinder. Took about 1/2 hour but I saved it. The slip joint at the "Y" was leaking and making some raspy noises and buzzed when cold. Tied gooping with some silicone monkey @!*% (technical Navy term). No help. Wagner has a stainless fitting that fits perfecty on the joint. Includes the step at the slip. High quality. Includes sealent. Solves problem. Purchased for $11 at Summit. if you can't find it I will get you the part no. I was surprised how much it quieted the sound down. Check the clearance between the brake lines and header on the pass side. They were awful close. I put in a shield. Suckers get hot. Brakes are important. The improved perfomance was noticable. On Snoqualmie Pass Hill in Washington state max speed increases from 75 to 85. That is at least a 15% power increase. Posted speed limit did not change. Mpg increased about 1 or 1.5 mpg. Gets between 17.5 and 19 mpg mostly freeway driving. Also put a borla catback setup (found one real cheap on the internet on closeout) and new cat after driving around with just the headers and the old exhaust. Little too loud for my taste. No noticable improvement in either power or mpg. Kids think it sounds cool. Dissappointed. Stick with stock unless you like the sound and the stainless steel construction. I don't check the forum much. Contact me by email if you want. That is all. Tacoman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Oh and another thing my '91 with a M/T I had to dent, yes dent or deform the the down tube (pass. side) past the bell housing since it was soo close to it . I was afraid of heat sinking the bell houseing and trashing a bearing. The EGR comes completely out. To reassembble mine, I cut the tube and used high temp hose and a couple of hose clamps to make the circuit complete. Careful bending that tube it's probably old and brittle. I don't know what you have for hearder gaskets but the trash that came with mine are in file 13. Get some good Fel-Pro or equilvant exhaust gaskets. Mine were gray graphite colored and I think they were Fel-Pros. You don't what to be going back in to swap out header gaskets now do ya? And like tacoman sez don't trash the intermediate tube if it's in good shape. Tacoman throwup the part number for the trick stainless clamp. That noise is extremely irritating. I don't want to weld the slip joint for I fear a clutch job isn't too far around the corner. I'll roll 150K by friday. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacoman Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 M The part number is Walker (said Wagner earlier) 33 230 Walker Mega-Clamp 2" HD SS Clamp. 2" is the diameter of the basic tube, not the flaired lap. The actual clamp is about 4" long. They have two types; a lap joint and a butt joint. The part # is for a lap joint that fits Thorley's. Tacoman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Thanks Tacoman. I'm running Pacesetters. I'll post once I get it regardless of if it solves my fugitive noise or not so that others can be in the know. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duffman Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 thanks for all the tips, a univeral joint socket and deep 12mm did the 2 that were hardest. The pasenger side is on and loosley bolted, the driver side is cray tight, holy hell. Ill spend tomarow on that, everything else is alright, the mid tube wasent cut and the sensor is fine. Thanks for those tips taco man, I appreciat it? any tips on the drivers side install? the horn is out and the airfilter is off, anything else that would aid instalation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 So any of you go with dual exhaust? I'm looking into headers and wanting to go with dual exhaust. I'm also wondering if I should run the pipes out the side just in front of the rear tires or not. I'm not too sure if doing that will interfear with the rock sliders once I get some? With some of you doing all this work yourself, (which I would love to do also) are you having to bend some of the piping yourself? I'm sure I would have too if converting over to dual exhaust. Have any of you bypassed the cat and ran straight threw to the mufflers? If I do the dual and the all new piping, would I have to have an O2 sensor in both pipes? Thanks for all the help and info everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 Mr. Jim put on Pacesetters, and had his flow out to dual exhaust. He had a shop do the work for him, but took lots of pictures and did a write up. Available Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfather99 Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 What is the stock exhauste pips size for a 92 pathfinder, i know 2.5" is the best but what is the original size it comes with stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 I have 2" out the back of the CAT on my 95xe and from the looks of it, its stock. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted July 29, 2005 Share Posted July 29, 2005 For those running Pacesetter pipes like me, you can rest asured that the clamp that Tacoman suggested for the Thorley pipes will work just as well for the Pacesetters. This clamp is the sweeeeeeeet. I wish I would have stumbled upon this when I did my original install. For 20 some odd bucks additional for two on a complete exhaust job stem to stern it's well worth the purchase in my opinion. M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted July 29, 2005 Share Posted July 29, 2005 I saw a recomendation from someone else who went with pacesetters to put 2 gaskets on each side to help seal them up better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted July 29, 2005 Share Posted July 29, 2005 GG, I ditched the manifold gaskets that came with the headers and opted for Fel-Pro's. One per side. I haven't had any leakage at the head/header flange. But I have had reoccuring leakage at the slip joints for the Y pipe. I tried the two mufffler clamp trick at these two joints with little success. This band style clamp applies more pressure over a wider surface area than a traditional muffler clamp. It's to early to tell if it will hold up under normal/extreme driving conditions but it looks a darn site beefier (is that a word) than the muffler clamp. Wagner, Walker who ever the manufaturer is suggests 50-70 foot pounds of torque on the 5/8" grade 8 bolts. Now that's what I'm talking about! Try that with a muffler clamp and you will either break the u-bolt or cave in the pipe. M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted July 29, 2005 Share Posted July 29, 2005 Why not weld the joint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 29, 2005 Share Posted July 29, 2005 So you can take it off later just in case. What if you need to do the clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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