Mr. Pickles Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Does anyboy know how Dynamat or the Scosche Accumat are made, or what they're made of? I'm pretty skeptical that they can be worth the cost typically attached. Its not gold plated. Does anybody have an insight into the make-up and composition, or to alternative materials that achieve the same goal? I've heard wise tales along the lines of light gauge sheets of lead, asphalt sheets or roofing shingles, etc. The point being, there has to be some way around several hundred $$$ to deal with the acoustics of the average vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 I was thinking of using some thick foam from a craft store. Should be easy to cut, and comes in different thicknesses. It could be attached with double sided tape. That stuff would compress a little for a snug fit behind the panel. That's just the door though. But, I probably won't do it anytime soon... I have too many other projects I want to do first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 I'm not sure what that stuff is made from, but there's another one called Fatmat that's a less expensive that Dynamat. You could do the passenger area with a few of their trunk kits. Each kit has 22.5 sq. ft. and costs under $40 as compared to Dynamat's 13.5 sq. ft for $130. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Dynamat is asphalt-based and Fatmatis butyl-based (therefore cheaper). Not sure if Dynamat is worth it since I've never tried but everyone I've heard of that's used it ends up happy...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96pfinderSE Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 dynomat is made of tar/ asphalt like statikuz said. Look in too peel n seel. That stuff works wonders. and its not to expensive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 The idea behind them is two fold: 1) to add mass to the metal panels to change the resonant frequency to a subsonic frequency, so you can't hear the panels when they "ring" or resonate like a drum head - which transmits outside noise into the car just like a speaker cone. This is the primary mode. Another cheap trick to do the same is to just stick heavy stuff (washers, scraps of metal) to the skin using silicone. 2) Absorb the ringing or vibrating energy (damping). And it does work! Cars like Mercedes, BMW, Lexus, etc are loaded with the stuff... I did my Chevy van and the Pathy. It cuts road noise in half, most noticeable by the fact we can talk at normal voice levels. Of course, now the engine sounds coming through the fire wall sound really loud... I have never used any of the high dollar name brands like Dynamat 'cuz I'm a cheap bugger... MCM Electronics used to carry (not sure if they still do) a "non branded" asphalt based sheeting for about 1/6 the price of Dynamat. 1/8" thick, very dense asphalt based stuff, good strong adhesive. Gave off a slightly tar like smell for a couple weeks when it got really hot, but no odors after that. Just leave the windows down for a couple weeks. For the Pathy, I used a high density vinyl based product - PyleMat - that was on sale from MCM Electronics or Parts Express (don't remember which it was). It was less dense, but gave off no odor at all. Cost about twice as much as the generic. I used 3 large sheets (each about 20x30" or so) in the Pathy and it was under $100. You do not need to cover every square inch of the panel - just a big square in the middle of each panel will give you 90% of the effectiveness, and getting into some of the corners is really tough! I covered about 70% of each outer door panel, and then used most of what was left on the rear quarter panels (I have 2 door model) covering about 50% of the surface area there, again, with the deadener applied near the middles of the large surface areas for maximum effectiveness. I still have a couple square feet that will go on the rear hatch the next time I pull the panel off. I think it's well worth it. Adds about 10-20 pounds and costs $100, but makes it much quieter. The keys for an easy and successful install: - CLEAN the surface of the sheet metal very well before applying. I use acetone, lacquer thinner, or pre-paint cleaner. - Apply on a very warm day onto very warm sheet metal so the adhesive is super tacky and conforms well. - Lay the damping material in the sun for a while before applying to make it conform really easily and heat up the adhesive. - Spend plenty of time making sure it is pressed very firmly to the panels. I use a 1" wide roller. Pierce any bubbles to get the air out. - Wear leather gloves to minimize sheet metal cuts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 a product you might try is "Ice and water shield" made by Grace. It is a roofing product that is used in the valleys of roofs here in new england, but I am sure there are similar products nationwide. basically it is a rubberized sheet with a super sticky adhesive on one side. it comes on a roll 3 ft x 50ft I think and im sure you can find it at a home improvment store. the adhesive has a strong smell to it, but i'd imagine that would go away pretty quick. as for price i'm sure it is cheaper per sq foot than dynamat. Ive never used it for sound dampening, but seems like it would work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 1, 2005 Share Posted April 1, 2005 Another "cheap" alternative is cork, you can buy it 1/8" thick in a roll, just cut it to size and spray adhesive it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowOSU Posted April 1, 2005 Share Posted April 1, 2005 Brownbread -- purchased on eBay, another asphalt based sound deadner. Works really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted April 1, 2005 Share Posted April 1, 2005 onother somewhat cheap is um.... Peel and Seal. It's roofing material and asphalt/tar based. that's what I used in my tin can Honda! LOL. it's not so tin can anymore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 Question here! I was thinking about getting something like this, but I'm also thinking about yanking out all my carpet and ryno-lyning(spelling) the inside. Would that stuff stick to that? I'm just thinking, why have carpet and all that unneccessary stuff in the vehicle if all it is for is off-roading? I know most of us have the vehicle as an everyday driver...Just wanted to put that out there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted April 2, 2005 Author Share Posted April 2, 2005 Question here! I was thinking about getting something like this, but I'm also thinking about yanking out all my carpet and ryno-lyning(spelling) the inside. Would that stuff stick to that? I'm just thinking, why have carpet and all that unneccessary stuff in the vehicle if all it is for is off-roading? I know most of us have the vehicle as an everyday driver...Just wanted to put that out there! From what I've read, to do Rhino Lining/bed liner, you have to thoroughly prepare the surface, scuffing all solid painted surfaces and sanding/grinding any rusted areas, then priming, all rusted surfaces. Point being, its probably going to be quite a job. But hit it up if you're motivated. I was thinking about it for my rockers, but we'll just add that to the 101 projects I'd like to do but don't have the time. Please post if you do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 When I repaired the rust holes in my rockers I knew there was no way I was going to color match the paint after the repair job, so I taped off a clean line the length of the truck and shot it with spray on bedliner in a can. I didn't prep one side behind the driver's wheel too well so its chipping from the high pressure car wash jets, but the rest is holding tight and looks good. The key to a good paint job is in the prep. Take your time and you'll get the results you want. If not, you'll end up having to doing it over again like me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted April 2, 2005 Author Share Posted April 2, 2005 When I repaired the rust holes in my rockers I knew there was no way I was going to color match the paint after the repair job, so I taped off a clean line the length of the truck and shot it with spray on bedliner in a can. I didn't prep one side behind the driver's wheel too well so its chipping from the high pressure car wash jets, but the rest is holding tight and looks good. The key to a good paint job is in the prep. Take your time and you'll get the results you want. If not, you'll end up having to doing it over again like me. Yep, spend twice the time you plan on preparing the surface to get it right. With paint in general (apparently including bedliner) the pre work and prepared surface have a ton to do with the finished product. You have to provide a clean solid surface for the product to adhere to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 The spray on liners aren't as durable as Herculiner or Durabak roll/brush on liners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted April 5, 2005 Share Posted April 5, 2005 :cool2: Thanks for the heads up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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