oilman

He's right! driveing without a clutch is something every manual owner should at least try to learn. It really isnt hard, but if its your only option and youuve never done it before, you will have a hard learning curve. Downshifting is a little tricky, but manageable.

if you are considering LSD or a locker up front to increase traction, then I assume you have or will upgrade your auto locking hubs to manuals, because if you didn;t the extra force applied by locking the front end will destroy the autos. With the manual hub setup you can completely seperate the wheel from the diff. so your comment is wrong you can weld the front spiders and the only time you will notcie the effect is when the hubs are locked. agreed steering will be difficult on any kind of hard terraign.

like he said there are reams of info and opinion on this topic on this board. But I'll give you my .02 real quick Stay away from automotive customizers (4x4parts.com) front upper control arms, the geometry is not very good on them, but I do like their rear coils very much, they are niuce and spongy for great axle articulation. If I were to do my lift again I would use the front UCAs from superlift, with the rear coils from AC, rancho 5000s like I have now, and torsion bars I would source somewhere. Keep in mind that if you do go with a lift and get over 31x10.5 tires you will need to consider steering upgrades. enjoy your reading.

the factory tubular steps are designed to LOOK like an off road setup, but are not designed to FUNCTION like real sliders or bars. the tubes will crush like a beer can if they touch rocks. That said if you just want the look, then go that route.

shavings in the manual tranny is not uncommon. have a magnetic drain plug installed so you can monitor how much shavings are actually showing up, and have the tranny overfilled with fluid. There is a TSB about low tranny oil levels in the garage section. heres a link.http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621&st=0

running 3 qts low for 800 miles is what caused it. It you are just now noticing the black mark above the exhaust pipe then I would say for syure that you didnt start burning that much oil until you heard the loud knocking and went to your mechanic. You might be able to get a crate reman engine instead of rebuilding your engine for close money. A factory reman is always preferable over having someone do it for you. Those engines are built in a factory with all the necessary tools by someone who does several of them a week, as opposed to the local shop who rebuilds maybe a couple engines a year, and maybe doesn;t have the right tool handy. I dont know about availability of the 3.3 as a reman, but I'd check into it before I had someone do it. As to your earlier question about oil weight that will last longer, go heavier! like 20-50wt. Unless you live in cold conditions, in tha case just keep alopt of oil handy. and as mentioned there are lots of additives to slow oil consumption.

did you come up with this notion all by yourself, or did you get bonafide advice that the tx10 will handle the gear lube

steering wont be nearly as bad as having a locked front end, but like was said I think the only time youd really notice a tendency to go straight is if you were powering through a fast turn :oops:

front locker for the pathy???? do tell!!!

I'm pretty sure the R50 calls for ATF in the t case. but all gear driven cases call for gear oil usually

I get my pantie in a twist whenever I try to use that search function. -bounce- Congrats on getting it to work

the noise you hear is most likeky the engine and tranny spinning that much faster. It is probobly not a problem. About which gear to use consider this. When in low range you truck will use several gears just to get to 15mph, so I dont recommend leaving it in D, cause this will cause the tranny to shift excessivly. I suggest starting out in 1 and if you really need that much more speed, manually move up to the next gear. Of course if you are running through mud maybe you want to leave it in drive.

I think this is the key. If you are spinning a tire or turning or whatever then by engagind the t caseyou are trying to mesh gears that are spinning at different speeds. I have never experienced the problem described when going into 4HI, but like said I always try to do it while moving slowly straight and although i'm in gear I am not really on the throttle

Is there an echo in here?

HMMM BDS lift: No UCAs No price... I wonder what they want for just the coils. and the max tire size is the same as what you can fit stock. Id say not worth it, that msuh lift without new UCAs will eat yo ball joints whoops, just realized the question was about r 50s... well my comments still hold true about the wd21.

whenever you increase tire size you decrease braking effect because of the longer lever arm created by the larger radius. there are lots of tricks you can try to fix this, but slotted rotors and exotic compound pads dont really increase your initial bite on the rotor, all they do is reduce fade caused by a buildup of heat and gasses between the pad and rotor. so unless you want to upgrade to larger diameter rims and larger diameter brakes, then just learn to downshift and use the engine to control some of that weight. I run 33s with stock brakes on my 90xe, and stock gears. the only brake problems I have experienced are when crawling down a hill. and the real fix to that problem is just lower gears, not bigger brakes. If your braking is really awful like you say make sure your rears are working right. I blew out a slack adjuster in a drum and it caused the proprtioning valve to send all fluid to the front brakes leaving me with no rear brakes.

I dont think 3.2 qts is correct. anyone clarify?

this topic has been covered here MANY times, but the search function on this board is kinda iffy. In brief your lower control arm bushings on the rear axle are worn out, that is what causes the body roll/ rocking problem. Search around in this or the garage forum and you should find lots of info on this prob. and options to fix it.

No offense pal, but ignoring that low oil pressure light is about the worst thing you can do to an engine, and while turning up the radio will make annoying noises go away, it doesn;t fix them. unless of course its you girlfriend next to you that you are trying to ignore. I see two distinct and possibly seperate problems you have. first: why were you low on oil? i cant think of any vehicle i have ever known or owned that would go from burning little or no oil to burning 3qts in 800 mi. So either you have been burning oil for quite some time and did't notice (I think this is unlikely), or your oil has been dripping out (at the filter, or drain plug, or evn filler cap) and you didn;t notice (I doubt this also since you park in a garage and say you have seen no oil drips), or (I'd put my money on this scenario) the pimply faced 17 year old getting paid $7/hr at the firestone place -alcohol- somehow forgot or neglected to put the proper amount of oil in when he changed it. He did however put enough in to create pressure at the oil pump and sensor (unlucky for you), but not enough to provide pressure throughout the whole engine (really unlucky for you) Now while your idiot light didn't come on warning you of the low oil pressure no doubt you were running with inadequate pressure on behalf of a lack of enough oil in the pan. Second: what damage did you cause? The tapping you heard and now the excessive oil burning are in my mind no doubt the result, not the cause of the lack of oil in the engine. The large puff of smoke on acceleration is probably bad rings caused by lack of lubrication, and the tapping could have been a lifter. Go to a trusted mechanic and have him do a compression check and general survey of the engine. good luck my friend. PS Ive heard similar horror stories about quick lube places ot putting oil in, or leaving the insp plug out of the diff etc etc. so if you are going to frequent these places (its ok not every body has the time, place, or know how to change their own oil, or the money to pay the stealership to do it) just be sure to check your fluids as soon as you leave.

I assume you have an Auto sounds like bad engine or tranny mounts. maybe even a torque converter problem. Post up some more info on your truck dude. year, mileage, other owners? accidents? major work???

Yes its true adding a body lift stresses your body mounts. But so does cranking your tbars stress your cv axles; your ball joints and your steering. Sure a BL is the cheaper way out, but that doesn't make it wrong. If you want a simple answer there isn't one! I read that whole thread and alot of what is said is either personal opinion, or just wrong. I liked the guy who said the other dude musta broke his tcase shifter cause of the stress caused by the BL. WTF is he talking about? sure a BL make the Tcase shifter a little harder to reach, but it doesn't add any stress to it! that said I would recommend a SL before a BL, and as a rule of thumb dont have more BL than SL, thats going cheap!

upon rereading your post I was reminded of a similar prob I had on my BMW. When I installed the cold air intake and the K+N cone filters I had to create a rubber bushing to match the hose diameters. a few months down the road I experiance the same problem you described. The problem was some of the bushing material I had used had slipped out of place and was causing a diminished and turbulent flow to the Mass Air Sensor. I also could smell that the car was running a little rich. after I cleared the mess the problem was gone. If you checked the MAS make sure you didn't damage it and that there isn;t something inside the airbox itself that is causiong a disruption or blockage. The O2 sensor is a possible culprit too.

to get the old one out you can sling it up from inside the truck, and lower it down, but to line up te new one you will definately want the right tool. The tranny/tcase combination is unweildy and heavy making it very difficult to handle. Here's a link to an affordable tranny holder for a traditional floor jack, or you might be able to rent one from a parts place. Good luck! tranny lift Check out this thread too: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6788&hl=

Sounds like a lean mixture, hence why it runs ok when cold/choked. Fuel filter perhaps.

The BL might not look as good as a sus lift, but you need to get the body away from the tires or you'll eat sheetmetal whenever you flex. Not that theres alot of sus flex to be done at the mall parking lot, if thats your thing.