oilman

we did it without using the shift hole at all, but someone later mentioned that that method worked also. Be careful under there! My friemd and I dropped the tranny and Tcase on ourselves and take it from me it HURT In hindsight I highly recommend a tranny jack/lift for this job.

the UCAs bolt onto the ball joints. As for ease of install, either replacing UCAs or Ball joints can be done seperately, or together. I think Id do them at the same time, but you wouldn't be saving yourself any time over doing them seperately.

ahh this is the best part of the whole job!!! you can reach the bolts holding the bell housing to the engine, but its harder than hell! If you have been following the instructions in the factory manual then all it takes is alot of patience. be sure the tranny and engine are rotated backwards in the frame a little so you can reach. the best approach to get these bolts is to use a universal joint and several extensions. you can also try reaching in from the gearshift hole inside the truck. Reaching these bolts may seem Impossible, but its not, its just almost impossible! :furious: good luck, and be patient! and take it from me throwing the wrench across the garage doesn't loosen the bolts any quicker.

are the door locks vacuum operated on the pathy? I thought they were, but maybe i am misinformed.

good catch on the center bore. Although the chevy 6 lug is the right pattern, the center bore on most factory chevy rims is too small for the front hubs. Ive looked into getting rims machined to fit, but the price was too much

Yeah the throw out bearing is pretty cheap, but the tranny has to be dropped from the truck which is a serious PITA. And like has been said replacing the clutch at the same time is a good idea too. Chances are that if your clutch wasa replaced by the PO then the TO bearing would have been done as well. vis a vis, if your TO bearing is kaput then I doubt your clutch has ever been changed. The clutch isn;t much $$ either, its just alot of labor to do it. My friend and I jst did this exact repair in his R50, and in hindsight the tools we didn;t have, but need to borrow, steal or buy are a bearing puller/press; a slide hammer; and a tranny jack. The job can be done by you on the cheap if you have a garage, a good supply of tools, someone to help you muscle the tranny around, and alot of patience.

HEAT!!! If you get the bolts a nice rosy red and then let em cool so you dont brand yourself that will help alot. PS what gen pathy is it?

DITTO! If huge horsepower was so important, then why is the 4cyl toyota so popular? Since the question is "factory off-road ability" I think the wd21 has it 2 or 4dr. mines a 90 4dr so I like that setup best. I have my rear seats out off the truck cause the bolts rusted out of the body, and with a nice little flatbed I built in there i could almost lie down and get a good nights sleep, almost. That being said I would like to see a 2006 doing its thing off road. I think it might give the wd21 a run for its money, but the second you even think about modding anything the wd21 is the clear winner.

Sounds like the root of your problem is inadequate backspacing on your rims. I believe it should be between 3.5 and 4" My 33s hit the frame like you mentioned but only at or near full droop. I cant think of any suppliers, but I bet some searching of toyota websites might be helpful since the bolt pattern is the same.

Im with Vsicks! Take that damn thing off! but if you really want it on there then fix it, but that being broken has nothing to do with your steering being sloppy or out of alignment. In my state we have to go through an extensive vehicle inspection to get a sticker. Components like sway bars HAVE to be in place if they were factory. However I took both of mine off and all mounting hardware and now you'd never know they were there.

So I run 33x12.5s on my 90xe. The steering is wasted! I knew this would happen with the big tires, and now I am ready to upgrade. I know Calmini makes a steering kit and Ive heard of L+P, but dont know where to find them. Are there any others? So if you are running tires like mine and have upgraded your steering, post up and tell me what you have, how you like it, what you wouldve done different. Thanks -S PS please include a weblink to suppliers. Nothing is worse than when someone tells you about this great product they have but not where to find it. :help:

I think eberybody missed something in the first post> He said he was "climbing a mountain" the excess load put on the engine will cause the exhaust to get super hot! Maybe he was pushing the old girl up the mountain to try out those new header and see what kinda HP gain he got outta them! Lastly unless you are standing still, the flow of air up and around the exhaust manifold/headers will keep the heat from radiating to the floorboards opf the car. What I think is most likely is he has an exhaust leak that is spewing hot exhaust against the fllorboards and heating them up. I know of several pathys of this era which have had recurring problems with this kinda leak, and the resultant smoking carpet. Right under the drivers foot is the most common spot. I would look for an exhaust leak before even considering a plugged cat. besides if the cat was pluged how would the engine breathe? it would run like crap and not get hot!! On the topic of fire extinguishers: dry chem is extreamly corrosive to electronics. sure they work great, but you can forget about saving that nice new head unit and cd changer you just installed. and dry chem isnt terribly efective against class A fires (paper/wood/carpet). If you are going to go the trouble of having multible extinguishers I would throw a CO2 entinguisher into the mix. thats my .02 take it or leave it

if you search in the garage section there is an article somewhere about how to tell your ratios.

do you have any pics of the forward plate under the oilpan and exhaust? could you email em to me?

Also called a track bar by some people, the panhard rod is in the rear of the axle. the sway bar is U shaped and connects to the axle with rubber bushings and to the frame with vertical rods. I have both of mine off with 6" of lift. and the truck does sway! but you get used to it just corner slowly. also if you are running wide tires your sway is not as bad without the bar, compared to near stock width tires and no bar. Even with stock shocks you will notice an improvment. the disconnects are a good way to get the best of both worlds, but drilling the holes is a PITA. The directions are wrong about the size of the hole needed it actually needs to be bigger than specified (sorry I cant remember how big, but I think it's 5/8"). Get a good drill bit and go SLOW and oil frequently.

Check all the connections on the starter something could be loose also inspect the wires for damage from the arcing, then check you battery connections, and make sure they're clean and TIGHT. If it's still a no go then I think you just bought yourself a new solonoid. you know they'res a reason tose filter wrenches have rubber coated handles. good luck

so with this set up you get some slip as long as you are coasting not powering, is that correct? love the concept!

So I have built my pathy about to its limit with stock axles. I have a 3 in suspension lift and a 3in body lift and am running 33x12.5s. The twi major problems I am facing are that the stock steering is wasted ( I knew that would happen), and the rear brakes cant stop the truck and I keep blowing the adjuster out of the shoe. First. I know I can get an upgrade for the steering, but is this just a stop gap measure? maybe its time for a SAS up front. Second. What about the rear brakes? has anyone run into this problem before? anyway I can upgrade the drums to discs. I have tHought of swapping this axle too. I run original gears so the brakes get a real workout going down hill. To do an axle swap I thought of two possible donors. a dana 30in front with an 8.8 in the rear, or dana 44s from a wagoneer. Any ideas? I have hit critical mass with my pathy, I dont neccesarily want to go bigger, but I dont know if I can maintain this size with reliability.

Well, I do want to lift the back end of my pathy, but I found out thru the forum that you can lift the back by adapting jgc springs, that's what I want to do. From what i read you can get a 3" lift in the back, but I want to have a 4-5" lift in the front though, and since I'm on a budget then I need to save the most money I can for lifting my pathy!!! with the UCAs you can get 3-3.5 inches of lift in the front, or less if you crank the tbars less. youcant gwet any more than that really cause there just isn;t room to droop, never mind that the cv joints and tie rods cant handle it. why do you want to lift the front so much, and not the back? you may want to consider replacing your old torsion bars too, they could be sagging causeing you ride to be way low in the front. CALMINI.com is a good place to look for some really nice kits, but they are $$$. but worth it from what I hear. if you need more than 3" of lift, than your only real option is to do a combo body suspension lift. thats what I have done ad have about 6" of lift all around. I went with the 3" kit from 4x4parts.com, and have not been impressed with the front UCAs. the torsion bars are nice, and they were cheaper than calmini, and the rear springs were nice too. I want to change out the UCAs with the superlift ones, but cant justify spending the money again. :furious: if I were to do it again I would go with the calmini kit, but it wasn't available when I did my lift. dont forget to budget for new, longer, shocks when you are pricing out a lift. using your old ones will not give you enough droop. good luck

odd break, sounds like it got hit right there by something. and definately have it welded.

im guessing a chafed wire somewhere.

rad caps come in different pressure ratings, did you get the right one? so where is the coolant going? you dont see any leaks, or smell any coolant? what happens if you start it and let it run without driving will the coolant disappear? if you cant smell it and its not leaking out on the ground, id think it must be burning off in the exhaust. so ids there steam there? not to insult you, but you did put the tstat in correctly, and not backwards right. and you are using the right mix of coolant and water???

manual/auto?? been off road lately? it its manual, you might have a stick up there. if its auto, the cable might be out of adjustment

some pathys had a switch on the console that says "sport/cruise" or something like that. it was for electronically adjustable shocks. mine doesn;t have it, but since you have that at both shocks, I'd guess yours did, but when the shocks were replaced, the wire was cut. the system wqas pretty useless from what ive heard

i'm with you, I went searching for fender flares. so to cover all my bases I entered "flare" cause if someone wrote flares it would contain flare, well I was returned one thread that didn't even contain what I was looking for