oilman

if you say you have some coolant under the valve covers, than i think coolant is getting into the oil. why you dont see it there is because it gets boiled off and then burned off through your pcv valve. your upper rad hose is superhot cause its full of steam. have you burped the emgine properly? start it cold with the rad cap off and the rad full. when the tstat opens it will suck coolant into the engine and the rad level will drop, fill it back up again, and put the cap back on. be sure to wear glasses when you do this hot coolant is no joke as to the oil problem, sounds like a head gasket to me. good luck

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tranny rebuild = $1500 custom 350 swap = $5000 plus parts sure swap it out, but what makes you worry about the motor with 200k on it? have the compression checked, hell you could probably get a reman vg30 with a warranty, and tranny installed for like 4000 that said Ive got an 89 gmc with a 350 for sale, you could use it as a donor vehicle

pics?? you mean it's inside the fender?

I've heard about the vibration issue, that they settle overnight and when cold, then are rough up to running speed. Between that and issues of overheating, I guess I'll stick with radials. The Pathy pulls multi duty as daily driver, driving hundreds of highway miles on long camping trips, as well as dirt duty. Those tires are probably better suited for a dedicated trail rig. Thanks guys. well dont let me talk you out of it. its amazing how much difference changing from an AT tire to an MT, or an MT to an extreme traction time like the swampers. you'll go places with the aggressive tires you could never go with ATs. if you can swing it, use 2 sets ATs for everyday stuff, and something a bit gnarlyier for when you go on the trail. in the long run its actually cheaper, cause you'll get better life out of the ATs and better gas milage too!

get your rig outta there, even if he does do the work now, it will be just to get you off his back, and I doubt the work will be done right. I'd call a lawyer, and if you have given this guys any money at all file a civil complaint. dont even think about the better business bureau, they are a private organization and really have no power whatsoever. if the guys is a member of the BBB, than you can log a complaint against him, but if he is not a member than they cant collect or spread information about him. file a complaint in court if you have givin this guy one cent, even if it was for something that he did actually do. But get your truck outta there!

bias plys dont last as long, and heat up more than radials, this is caused by the threads rubbing against each other as the tire flexes. as a result they are more prone to overheating failure from improper inflation at high speeds. radials are stiffer, and give a better ride like 88 said. I looked at those LTBs they are super aggressive, and they are bias ply. SS LTB from the super swamper website

my friend had a 95 with power locks, and when it was cold out the doors would lock when you slammed the door shut. a real pain if you had left the keys inside. he kept a hide a key in the spare tire

I really ment to say 31X10.5's you might fit those with just the jgc/tbar lift. but in looking at tire sizes, dont just go by what they are called, look up the specs for each tire design. some "31s" actually measure 30.2 and some measure 31.7. BFGs are notoriously smaller than the sidewall says they are. and when you start going wider be prepared for more steering problems trying to turn those huge meats. in the very least i suggest an idler arm brace. and if the truck is a salvage that you are fixing up, why not add a body lift? I thought about not doing it, then I thought about just 1 inch, then 2, but in the end I went with 3, and am glad I did. if you go with a 3in body lift, and a 3in suspesion lift you could fit some nice 33's for off road and then some blingin 22s or even 24s for the street. its not really my look for a truck, but what the heck. any look is cool if it's done right

thats very likely for the shaking. as got your brakes, you may have damaged them somewhat, possibly a brake line is leaking, or your e brake cable got caught on something. check the ebrake cable for obvious damage, it hangs inder the body then forks to each rear wheel. if your rear brakes are old enogh they may have fallen apart inside. that happwend to mine off road once, but of course they were 14 years old

a product you might try is "Ice and water shield" made by Grace. It is a roofing product that is used in the valleys of roofs here in new england, but I am sure there are similar products nationwide. basically it is a rubberized sheet with a super sticky adhesive on one side. it comes on a roll 3 ft x 50ft I think and im sure you can find it at a home improvment store. the adhesive has a strong smell to it, but i'd imagine that would go away pretty quick. as for price i'm sure it is cheaper per sq foot than dynamat. Ive never used it for sound dampening, but seems like it would work.

yeah they are oil-sorbant pads, most auto shops should carry them. I used to work for an oil company and we had tons of em. sometimes they are called hydrophobic pads.

precise1 sorry I wasn't trying to include factory rims in my comment about chromes. thats where I started. what I meant was the look of a new flashy set of AFTERMARKET chromes, and aggressive offroad tires. just looks silly. Ive known several guys who run large "quiet giants" on chromes rimms on the street, but then have a set of off road tires on different rims. and for what its worth, my current off road tires are mounted of chevy factory alloy rims, cause they were free, while my on roads are mounted on my old black steelies that were too narrow to fit my 33x12.5s. hope this clarifyies things

so you put that stuff on the dw, and then wash it off into the drain right? thats a great place for it. I bet you park over the storm drain when you change the oil on your car and just let the old oil go right down. out into some stream and then on into the ocean. hey the oceans just like a big toilet that flushes twice a day anyway. mineral spirits is just a superlight oil, so of course it degreases heavier oils. te best way to degrease a DW is with speedi dry. put it on and let it sit, sweep it around several times grind it in. with a little time and energy moving it around, it will suck old oil right out of concrete. and if you really need to degrease something, joy soap works great, or those bottled degreasers at the auto store, those are nontoxic too, really just soap.

I use chains on my 2wd p/u in the winter sometimes. just like studed tires you can run chains on the rear or all four. and here is the reason. chains add ALOT of rolling resistance, so if you have them in the back, they will keep the truck straight, but if they are in the front only, the back will want to go past the front, and the only way for that to happen is sideways. but off road would be a different story, cause you'll never be going fast enough to spin out (I hope) as for the t case, I bet the problem is in your hubs, the added resistance of the front chains caused to hubs to malfunction. and if ytour running 31s with chains off road I would expect some custom body work real fast

cxhrome rims off road just yells out "I am a NOOB" besides black steelies would look better on the street than rock rashed chomes

why yall pickin on this guy and his dubs? i think its a great idea, off road tires, and on road tires. I have two sets of tires and rims on my pathy, 33s for off road, and 31's for daily drivin. as for the rims fitting, nissans have some of the smallest center hubs out there, so chevy 6 lugs should fit fine if the are for a 4x4 vehicle. toyota rims would work too. the center hole size becomes a problem when you try to put Nissan rims on a toy or chevy, cause the Nissan hole is too small. as for towing, I think you would be ok. if its an auto, add a tranny cooler, and add lucas tranny oil stabilizer (really controls heat). if its a stick, be reall careful of your clutch especially on a boat ramp, dont slip it. in fact use 4lo when pulling up the ramp, makes it so much easier, and your truck will thank you. of course get out of 4lo before you go anywhere. also if you do any towing in hlly areas, I would look into some trailer brakes, and a controller. oh and to who ever: I have seen a pathy on 44s

could be a failing oil pump, or just a bad sensor, or gasoline will make its way into the oil over time especially in an older engine, this can cause a drop in viscosity. oil analysis is really looking for metal in the oil which could warn of failing bearings, even specifically which bearing depending on what kind of metal. I dont know what you are paying for that analysis, but I think it might be a waste of money. oil analysis is something used on large diesel engines, to warn of impending failures, so that the engine can be rebuilt, before it fails. most often seen on boats, large equipment, and stationary power units, where $5-$10000 dollars to rebuild is a deal compared to $50000-$100000 to replace. in a car it is usually just easier, cheaper, and wiser to replace with a factory rebuild, rather than have the local garage rebuild it himself. as far as conventional oil goes like someone said as long as you stay out of the "bargain bin", oil is oil, more money just buys you more time between oil changes. I have run NAPA brand oil in everything I own and maintain, including several diesels, and it does just fine as long as you are religious about changing it. for cars and small trucks I like 10-40 in the summer spring and fall, and use 5-30 for just a few months in the winter. but if you live in a really hot or cold climate you might want to adjust that. here in maine temps run -10F to 90F over the year

along with what was mentioned above. keep this in mind, just cause the radiatior was flushed doesn;t mean it isn't still plugged. a radiatior shop can check this by running the car and checking the radiator with a heat measuring gun to see that it is getting even flow throughout. also on an engine with a mechanical fan, if the fan shroud is not in place the fan will not draw air through the radiator very well when parked, but air will flow through when being driven. I had an old truck like this, had to have the heat on full whren in traffic to keep it from over heating, but on the highway ran right at temp.

yeah the front hubs and or bearings would be my guess, along with bad tires, but cupping or scalloping can be caused by bad bearings. if you regularly do water crossings with your pathy and the front hubs get submerged, water can infiltrate, leading to early failure. If you do water crossings, you have to use marine waterproof bearing grease, look for it in the trailer section, it is used mostly for boat trailers. also the auto locking hubs dont like to be "packed full" of grease. if that was done when the bearings were changed like you said, that could be another reason they arent disengaging. if you go in and out of 4x4 alot make sure you back up at least the 10 feet necessary to disengage the front hubs, if not further. on my 90 I would back up like 20 feet at least to make sure they disengaged. that was before I changed to manual hubs. I once got a new set of tires on a pickup I used to drive, when they were new (less than 1500 mi) they would set up a beat frequency ( sounds like "wow wow wow wow wow wow wow) at certain highway speeds, but it was barely noticeable and went away once the tires wore down a little. I sometimes drive with chains on here in maine on my 2wd PU, and its one hell of a rough ride on bare pavement at 30mph, so if thats really how it feels, then you have a serious problem. hope all this helps

sounds like a u joint, similar thing happened in a ford I owned, although since it happens only at hard acceleration when the suspension is under load, I might wonder about slip yoke damage, causethe u joint to bind because the appearent lenght of the D shaft cant change. 88 any idea about that?? lastly a friend poked a hole is his telescoping d shaft in a ford bronco II, it dried out and siezed, so when he accelkerated and the rear squatted, it couldn't shorten up, and caused the u joint to bind, and finally fail at highway speed resulting in the scariest experience of my life. but i suspect that that was because his truck had the d shaft hoop removed, allowing the front of it to fall down on to the ground. the hoop is put there to prevent yout pathy from polevaulting if the front u joint broke and got caught in a pot hole. (yes I saw that episode of myth busters) 88 what do you mean the u joints arent removable???? i bought a set of u joints from AC for my 90, you telling me they sold me a part i cant use?

ok well for some reason when I search "flare" i dont get any responses, but when I search "flares" I do. go figure. I did search this morning b4 I posted. any idea why the flares for the 4 doors are $150 more than the 2 door ones??

i'm looking for some aftermarket flares for my 90 4 door. i dont need an exact match cause i will be doing some trimming, and looks aren't too important. i just need to keep the mud out of the air. lastly something soft that will flex if i rub it against a tree is a big concern for me. thanks. I looked at bushwacker, but they dont list flares for the wd21, only the r50

i dont know where you got the 3 inch idea. 1 inch is fine, even as low as 1/2" is ok. that 1/2" will give you over an inch of lift most likely. good luck. also after you reindex the T bars bounce the front end and take it for a spin around the block, then check again, sometimes it will changs a little.

well I got it to telescope, but it wasn't easy. after letting it sit in PB for about a day I was able to hammer it out, but i had to take it out of thew truck and put it in a vise