Macrow Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 So just last week my 1995 XE Pathfinder started driving almost as if it was in Limp Home except for my Rpm's would go up to 4000 - 5000 & it acted as if it was stuck in 3rd gear wouldn't shift into any other gear. The next time I went to start so we could take it over to a friends house & have a good look at it. While sitting at the light once it turned green giving it gas we moved nowhere so pushed it into parking lot to look it over didn't see anything out of the ordinary. We started it back up & wouldn't you know we were able to drive it again still like stuck in 3rd with hight rpm's. got about 2 more miles when it then started losing all power & didn't want to move anymore. So tried shutting it off & turning it back on again which once again was able to drive it got it the next mile to my friends house. Checked over everything tps checked out ok spark plugs got changed out, mass air flow checked out, had a code for the o2 so put a new one in, vacuum lines seemed to be all in tact, distributor looked ok , Inhibitor switch wiring had an exposed wire looked like it may have gotten melted a bit got that all cleaned up & fixed. checked for any other codes & got 55 so nothing there got it to flash codes on dash from E-at power which flashed 16 times all the same with none flashing with a longer pause then the rest. Which if I read it right says the all the same flashing ran it's test & everything checked out. One thing I did notice while it was sitting at idle if you would apply pressure to the breaks it would bog down so I tried to pump[ the breaks while in park sitting at idle everytime i applied to breaks the idle would bounce around almost to where it just died. Figured it was then best to trailer it back to my house since I was bout 70 miles from my house started & drove on & off trailer ok once got in the garage at my house began to double check everything again from wire connections, vacuum lines, tested MAF, TPS, checked spark plugs, distributor, Starter. What I found after the look over was on the wire coming off distributor it was showing a tiny bit of the wire & on the starter notices the wires going into connector was broken & exposed fixed these issues. Checked for codes again still 55 & same thing on dash with 16 flashes all identical so checked out there. Timing belt & water pump have been switched out 40000 miles ago. Decided to call it a night to clear my head then the next morning go to start it up which when started idled for maybe 2 minutes then just died. When I tried to start back up it was as if it didn't have any power & would barely turn over. Let sit for about an hour went to start again same thing idle for 2 min then died at start back up same thing as if no power barelt wanting to turn over. I check the battery & it was sitting at 12.9 let sit for a bit start up same thing again only this time when started & at idle all of a sudded speedometer jumps from 0-100 then down to 0 & it dies. Won't start back up again. Check battery which was showing only at 20% so put on charger once charged start back up same thing again at idle speedometer jumps from 0-100 then down to 0 & it dies won't start back up Same series of tests only watch the battery level at start up when turning key over battery drops to 10.7 then bounces around from 11.4 12.9 up to 13.7. Decided to take battery in to test it along with alternator both checked out come back hook everything up try to start same thing speedo jumps all over then dies heavy smell of gas this time around. Try to start again it tries to start but just won't start comes close but nothing. I am lost on where to look now any ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backpacker Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I was going to say sounds like a transmission problem but the last bit makes me think it's not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 I was going to say sounds like a transmission problem but the last bit makes me think it's not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk That's what I had thought from the start of everything that has happened but I had been leaning away from it being the transmission as well. It had been running the best it has run since I bought it from the shop next to where I was working at the time so then for this to happen out of the blue when she has been runnigh so good just has me stumped. I am going to try & get a video as I start it to help with what exactly is doing & then will post it up here. When uploading a video do you do same as if it were a picture being uploaded? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 Here is a link for the video of what is going on when try to start her Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backpacker Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 That's what I had thought from the start of everything that has happened but I had been leaning away from it being the transmission as well. It had been running the best it has run since I bought it from the shop next to where I was working at the time so then for this to happen out of the blue when she has been runnigh so good just has me stumped. I am going to try & get a video as I start it to help with what exactly is doing & then will post it up here. When uploading a video do you do same as if it were a picture being uploaded? Yeah I believe so. I uploaded a video a few weeks ago and I'm pretty sure I did it like a photo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 Yeah I believe so. I uploaded a video a few weeks ago and I'm pretty sure I did it like a photo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk cool i got it loaded on here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Boy that's weird. I don't think it's any sort of mechanical problem that I can think of. I would think a bad sensor would show a code. Check and see if there is a TSB on something like this. Sorry I can't offer any ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 Boy that's weird. I don't think it's any sort of mechanical problem that I can think of. I would think a bad sensor would show a code. Check and see if there is a TSB on something like this. Sorry I can't offer any ideas. Yeah it is very strange actually & I have been going through evrything since I got off work earlie in the evening. Which I still have not been sable to find anything wrong or even signs of something. I have checked all the TSB's & have not found anything for this kind of issue. Back to digging for more info & a solution to this so she is able to be back on the road again. No worries on not having any ideas on this I have mentioned it to a few other friends which they all have just scratched there heads on what itt could be as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 I am kind of thinking it is a control issue. Either bad inputs (sensors) into the ECU, or a failing ECU. Do you know anyone with a running pathfinder of a similar year that you could swap ECUs and see if that works? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 I was thinking possibly the Transmission Control on the passenger side behind the rear paneling. Ido have an extra ECU which came out of another 95 XE & was only built 2 months after mine. I will check that out tomorrow after work & see maybe if that fixes the problem or not. It's late now & I need to get some rest. Will let know tomorrow what I find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 There's a limp mode for the engine and a limp mode for the trans. Sounds like yours was in the trans limp mode. If the idle bounces whenever you hit the brakes, that makes me think your brake booster might be borked and making a massive vac leak, though for that to crop up at the same time as everything else seems unlikely. The last bit with the speedo bouncing around is odd, makes me wonder if the speed sensor might have an issue (which could be what put the TCU into limp mode). The speed sensor in a '95 is electronic, but it's just a reed switch, so I'm not sure what would make it fail like that. From the video, it looks like your dash clock is out too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 did you try wiggling the connector on the top of your MAF? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 There's a limp mode for the engine and a limp mode for the trans. Sounds like yours was in the trans limp mode. If the idle bounces whenever you hit the brakes, that makes me think your brake booster might be borked and making a massive vac leak, though for that to crop up at the same time as everything else seems unlikely. I did notice this morning that a little bit of my brake fluid has been leaking out of the reservoir would that in turn be due to the brake booster going bad maybe? The last bit with the speedo bouncing around is odd, makes me wonder if the speed sensor might have an issue (which could be what put the TCU into limp mode). The speed sensor in a '95 is electronic, but it's just a reed switch, so I'm not sure what would make it fail like that. From the video, it looks like your dash clock is out too. I do have another speed sensor as well not exactly sure how to get the other one out though? I know it is back by the transfer case & has the connector that plugs in & then the 1 or 2 I believe 10 mm bolts on it which which mount it ny transfer case. When I tried to remove it to switch out I was unable to last time. Do you know is there something I must do to remove it like if I need the rear end of the ground or something? Since it has what looks like a gear on it not sure if there is a trick or something that needs to be done to get it to pull out & be removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 did you try wiggling the connector on the top of your MAF? I did try wiggling the MAF connector on it when it was running before & didn't notice a difference at all. However now it doesn't even stay at Idle long enough for me to try again to see. It now just does what it shows in the video & that's the longest that it has stayed running for lately before it dies again which doesn't allow anytime for me to be able to check again unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 There's a limp mode for the engine and a limp mode for the trans. Sounds like yours was in the trans limp mode. If the idle bounces whenever you hit the brakes, that makes me think your brake booster might be borked and making a massive vac leak, though for that to crop up at the same time as everything else seems unlikely. The last bit with the speedo bouncing around is odd, makes me wonder if the speed sensor might have an issue (which could be what put the TCU into limp mode). The speed sensor in a '95 is electronic, but it's just a reed switch, so I'm not sure what would make it fail like that. From the video, it looks like your dash clock is out too. Yes, the clock on the dash is out it lights up still but does not show the numbers anymore I have tried changing the bulbs out from my back up cluster that I have out of my old 95 pathfinder but still just lights up with no numbers showing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Try unplugging the maf sensor and then starting it. You won't be able to rev it past 2 or 3k rpm but it should still run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Smell your transmission dip stick. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) Update:Going to switch out the VSS just to narrow things down on possible causes of my issue & because when I went to look at this as you can see the one circled where the 10mm bolt goes through was cracked completely off so needs replaced no matter what.So I am a bit confused on which VSS need for my 95 XE auto 3.0 4x4 Pathfinder in the picture the one circled is the one that came out of my current 95 which has 20 teeth the other cam out of my other 95 XE auto 3.0 4x4 Pathfinder which was built 2 months after my current one I am driving & has 18 teeth on it. What I am confused on is they both have 235 / 75 15's on them so why would they have different VSS & which one is right or are they both wrong & which one would I need to order because the part store couldn't figure this out either.Also looking like it could also be my CMPS that has gone out on me as well which could be what is causing it to now only fire up for a real brief moment then dies & then doesn't want to fire up anymore after that unless it sits for a bit before trying to start again.If it is my CMPS I would need to replace the distibutor as a whole but wanting to make sure that I am correct on this? Edited January 20, 2017 by Macrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Try unplugging the maf sensor and then starting it. You won't be able to rev it past 2 or 3k rpm but it should still run. I am not able to do this yet because it currently won't even stay running for more then 15-20 seconds if I am lucky if it even starts at all for me thinking it may be my CMPS causing some of the issues at least that is what I am thinking currently but still looking further into this though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Smell your transmission dip stick. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk My fluid still looks just like new & smells normal as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) My fluid still looks just like new & smells normal as well I am genuinely happy for you. Trans problems suck.. Now it sounds like you are on the right track. I'll just go ahead and tell you.. that sensor is a huge pain to get to. I had to go buy a tiny stubby 10mm wrench. Before that I struggled and screamed for hours.. I might even go buy like 3 assortments of extensions and 4 or 5 ujoints. I don't really know if it's even possible but if you can slink a socket down there from the engine bay and have someone place the socket on the bolt while you break it loose from up top... wow that'd be awesome. See what it looks like and if you can't reach it from the top then go find a short stubby 10mm ratcheting wrench. You'll be so glad you went for the ratcheting action!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited January 20, 2017 by onespiritbrain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Different tooth count is likely due to different final drive ratios (HG46/43). If the speedo was correct with the sensor that was in there, I would replace it with the same. I haven't had to remove one so I'm no help there. Fluid leaking out of the res probably indicates that your res is shot but that's about it. The one on my '95 leaked from the side where there's a little ball driven in to seal a passage. My test for the booster would be to remove the line going to it, block it off, and see if the engine runs better. If it does, then you can reasonably assume that the booster's shot and you have a massive vacuum leak. Again, though, I'd be surprised if it was just that given all your other issues. No idea what to make of the clock, though it does make me wonder about other wiring issues. Did that quit around the same time as the issues started or has that been out for a while? Could very well be unrelated. A bad dizzy could explain why engine and trans are both acting up--I'm pretty sure the TCU gets its tachometer signal from the dizzy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Different tooth count is likely due to different final drive ratios (HG46/43). If the speedo was correct with the sensor that was in there, I would replace it with the same. I haven't had to remove one so I'm no help there. Was looking on a thread here in the forums on vss & it sounded like tooth count depended on what the tire size was. I know the parts guy said in the computers there it was asking what the tire size was as well but he still couldn't find info on which one i needed. I haven't ever had to change one of these out either so I am lost on it too but if the tooth count does go off of tire size like the thread from here said it makes me think one of the two I have isn't right then beings both 95's have same size tires on them. Fluid leaking out of the res probably indicates that your res is shot but that's about it. The one on my '95 leaked from the side where there's a little ball driven in to seal a passage. My test for the booster would be to remove the line going to it, block it off, and see if the engine runs better. If it does, then you can reasonably assume that the booster's shot and you have a massive vacuum leak. Again, though, I'd be surprised if it was just that given all your other issues. Where you said your 95 was leaking at is the same area that mine is actually leaking at as well. I will have to do the check on the booster when I get everything else back together & see what the results are one I test it. No idea what to make of the clock, though it does make me wonder about other wiring issues. Did that quit around the same time as the issues started or has that been out for a while? Could very well be unrelated. Clock went out months before any of this started going on so could certainly be some wiring issues which as I have been tracing lots of the wiring to see if I notice anything bad & have found a few things & fixed the wiring that had anything wrong that was found. I am not the original owner of this 95 either but I do know the PO didn't take to good of care of it & I have done a lot to get it running good again. That & it was just sitting for 2+ years outside at a shop next to the one I worked at which is more then likely why I have been coming across some wiring issues. A bad dizzy could explain why engine and trans are both acting up--I'm pretty sure the TCU gets its tachometer signal from the dizzy. Ok, cool I was thinking along the same lines too with bad dizzy & how that could affect engine & tranny if it was bad which I overlooked when it all started going bad on me. Thanks for the help with this as well I appreciate any input I can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macrow Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 I am genuinely happy for you. Trans problems suck.. Now it sounds like you are on the right track. I'll just go ahead and tell you.. that sensor is a huge pain to get to. I had to go buy a tiny stubby 10mm wrench. Before that I struggled and screamed for hours.. Which sensor is a pain to get to if it is the one I have pics of on here that one is actuall quite easy to get to on my 95 but not sure if the ones I have pics of on here is the one you are referring to or not? I might even go buy like 3 assortments of extensions and 4 or 5 ujoints. I don't really know if it's even possible but if you can slink a socket down there from the engine bay and have someone place the socket on the bolt while you break it loose from up top... wow that'd be awesome. See what it looks like and if you can't reach it from the top then go find a short stubby 10mm ratcheting wrench. You'll be so glad you went for the ratcheting action!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Oops! I was thought we were speaking about the crank position! Well good for you again. I'm subscribed, keep us posted on your findings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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