headpeace Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 I found some JGC coils today for cheap at a jy. My question is when I lift the front with the torsion bars should I put ball joint spacers in as well, are they necessary? Will the lift cause early failure of my CV joints? Any help is appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 17, 2005 Author Share Posted March 17, 2005 I got my JGC coils today, Ill cut em tomorrow, now I see about the 3 inch diameter thing, anyway wish me luck , Im sure Ill post more soon, and pix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardwaretoad Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Run a search for something like "AC balljoint spacers ruined my..." posted by 88. It goes into detail as to what these can possibly do to your parts. Some people have had no problems with them, others are another story entirely. You'd be better off getting aftermarket UCA's to get things back to a resemblance of proper angles, than the spacers used in conjunction with your stock arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 17, 2005 Author Share Posted March 17, 2005 thanx hardware, ill try that, Im hopin I can do this w/o UCA's; ya know , for the $ aspect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 You can go with stock UCA's and your CV joints will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 17, 2005 Author Share Posted March 17, 2005 should I be concerned with the ball joints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardwaretoad Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 The problem isn't with the CV's, it's the BJ angles once you crank it up, which the spacers are supposed to fix. 88 ran into problems when, by using them, it tore the sh!t out of one of his stock UCA's. Whether or not this was an isolated case is up for debate... Yes, you're increasing the working angles of the CV's when lifting, but not enough to cause excessive wear or binding on them. You're limited in lift (2-2 1/2" or so) by the stock UCA's ability to keep correct geometry on the bj's. From the things I've read, the spacers are not the way to go to correct this once you get up in the 3" range. Save for new UCA's ~ you can use the Superlift ones for the H/B truck, and they run around $260 or so I think. I'm surprised 88 didn't chime in about the spacers, he wrote about it on every Nissan board that I go to, including this one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 hey hardware, I appreciate the reply; heres another, if I get the UCA's will I still have to crank the torsion bars, or do the aftermarket UCA's somehow lift the front by themselves? also just out of curiosity, why havent u decided to lift? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 also hardware, if I only intend to go 2" would u personally, if it was your path, be concerned with the bj's, using stock UCA's? Thanx for all the advise man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardwaretoad Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 (edited) Aftermarket UCA's create no lift, they only correct your BJ angles to prevent wear & tear. All lift in the front is done with either torsion bar adjusting and/or reindexing. Try cranking them first, if they max out before your desired amount of lift is reached, they've sagged too much. You'll have to reindex them first then crank 'em up. There's threads about both here, look at the "pinned" topics in the "Garage" section or just do a search using those 2 words in it... :type: There's nothing to worry about AFAIK that cranking them up a couple of inches will mess with any of your stock parts. Higher than that & you run into the Bj thing, extra wear on your other steering components, etc. Take your time, make sure it's level, get it re-alligned to avoid tire wear, and enjoy... I want to go the whole 9 yards on mine at one time. Calmini SL and steering kit, 3" BL, Thorley headers, 33's with new wheels, etc. I've had mine since it was 2 years old & it's served me well all those years being bone stock. It wasn't until I started frequenting this and other Nissan boards that I realized just how much more capable it could be. I'm not working right now due to some "family" problems, so it'll just have to wait. Not going to empty several thousand out of my SEP-IRA so I can send "ooh & ahh" pics of my killer mods, ya know? -thnkboutit- Edited March 18, 2005 by hardwaretoad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 I hear ya hardware, I completely understand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 You'll be pleased with the JGC spring/t-bar adjustment. It's about the cheapest lift you will get, and should net you 2-3". I have my truck set up where the UCA is about 1" from the bumpstop and I have seen no hint of problems... Be sure to measure and photo before and after !!! Enjoy. Bernard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 will do precise, and thanks for all the help guys, oh yeah this is propably stupid question but I only cut off just enough to make the JGC a 4" diameter right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 Yup, this link has more than enough info on the installation. http://www.damagedreality.com/fordcoil.html Good luck and post some pics!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 When you crank the T-bars you are still staying in the stock range of travel for the CVs since the bump stops limit the travel range. If you do the crank and add low pro bump stops on the top, BJ spacers or aftermarket UCAs which allow greater down travel you may start getting into binds in the CVs but even then it's only at moments of extreme flex that it may bind. The part I would worry about most is the Tie Rods since the more you crank the T-bars, the more of an angle the Tie Rods are put at. Once again still in their stock range, but not made to run at that angle continuously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 hey grim, u think 2" would tweek the tie rod ends too much, I just put some new ones in about six months ago and would like them to last a while, I put in some moogs, a friend told me they were the best, preciate the advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 another question for the experts, will aftermarket UCA's correct the angles for the CV as wellas tie rod ends? or just the BJ's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 oh yeah, whats the purpose of the extra rubber piece on the rear springs? :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardwaretoad Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 (edited) Just the BJ's. A couple of inches shouldn't adversely effect your tie rods too much unless your hitting the trails on a regular basis. The higher the lift, the more stress you'll be subjecting your parts to. That's why there's kits from Calmini and L & P to beef up the steering links, etc. Tire diameter can play into as well. Also depends on how hard you hit the trails. Some cruising on a backroad out to your fave waterhole for some fishin' isn't going to be as hard as trying to climb a 4.5 rated boulder-strewn trail... -thnkboutit- BTW, Moog makes fine parts, I've used them for years... I'm no "expert" (or profess to be), just a veritable sponge when it comes to researching what others have done or ran into... Edited March 18, 2005 by hardwaretoad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 thanx harware, I don't normally do rock crawling so thats a plus did u see my other post about the rubber piece, spacer thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardwaretoad Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 Not so much a spacer as it is an isolator... keeps the rattles down. You can install spacers there to gain lift though. Some lift kits do exactly that rather than going to the expense of manufacturing coils... :contract: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 I got ya, just kinda extra cushioning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 Im thinkin I'll do the front (t bars) first just to make sure I can get the lift I want (1.5-2") before doing the JGC's, then tweek from there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 You'll be fine Bud ! Just cut as little as possible off of the JGC springs, the rubber mat is to help dampen vibration from the drive train/rear axle and probably helps seat the springs. Just make sure to clock the coil end in the lower seat... You will see what I mean when you are there... I understand your concern/caution, but don't be too shy; it is VERY easy and darn near fool proof. It's NOT darn fool proof so dont go there... Really, it's easy, shouldn't damage anything and you will be happy. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted March 19, 2005 Author Share Posted March 19, 2005 (edited) wow thats huge, let me try to fix that well i tried guys, all i could get was 1" on the front before gettin .5" from the bump stop, that just got me level with the back, I dont mind bein 1" shorter on the front but if I got 2.5-3" on the back then I'll be 2.5-3" shorter in the front and look like a, well I dont know but stupid lookin Im sure (jacked up)(no offense) pssd.gif , quess Ill wait till another day when I can afford some better sh!t, likesome calmini UCA's, new torsion bars, and new ball joints for the new UCA's, etc......, the list goes on I assume, thats not even touchin headers, oh well heres some pix , quess I should takin one more, the b4 from the same distance as the after, Edited March 19, 2005 by headpeace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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