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More lug nut and stud drama, please help...


ferrariowner123
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So I went to take my wheel off today to make some minor tweaks to my headlight arrangements and I was successful only at removing one, shearing another one, and the other 4 turn a 1/4 turn and then completely stop, even with my impact they will not move!

 

And now, the wheel is making a bad sound, like the tire is going flat, but I get no vibration in the steering, I just here the speed dependant knock, it freaked me out, and I really don't want to drive the car, plus I cant take the wheel off until I order new wheel studs and nuts.

 

So I can probably figure out the noise but the stud issue has me completely puzzled at what the heck is happening. I replaced the whole car with brand new, OEM studs, and gorilla lug nuts. Original quality with a good brand. I'm so confused. Someone please shine some light on this...

 

-Kyle

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Are you putting the nuts on dry or with oil/grease?

Do you start them by hand, and to what torque do you seat them?

With what do you remove the lug nuts?

 

There is something basic that is being missed here, I have only ever broken/replaced one stud... ever.

 

B

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Put then on dry. When I take them off (I have them rotated by discount tire) it's always started by hand. And rarely tightened with impact.

 

I torque them to Spec, as provided by DT, 105 ft lbs with my husky brand torque wrench.

 

Almost always removed with an impact

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Well i dont think your issue is over tightening because im a spaz about my tires falling off never happened to me but has happend to my uncle ...3 times haha so i always get them where with my weight (200-215 depending on the day) on them they dont tighten any more

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Yup, these are what I bought,

 

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-71127

 

I just bought some random Raybestos from rock auto so I can get my rig back on the road as soon as possible.

 

I torque mine to 105 ft-lbs. Same as what discount tire does.

 

Would putting some oil or anti seize help?

 

-Kyle

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Shouldn't have to use anything on the studs, normally the only way the lug would not unscrew is if the thread was messed up or the lug was cross threaded. Since your studs and lugs were both new that shouldn't be a problem.

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weird, I've had lugs start to come off than all of a sudden stop or start to turn hard, than when removed they were stripped to hell, this was when I installed tires way back. Never had a problem with my own, never use torque wrench when tightening them. If I do use the torque wrench I always go a little more than the minimum, seems like when ever Discount tire puts them on when I go to remove them for what ever reason, to me they seem too loose, even though they are torqued to spec. I don't kill them when I put them on though.

 

I guess you could use some antiseize on the studs, just read where people have been doing it for years with no problems

 

Only way I could see them getting rusted on is if you had water getting inside some how

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You shouldn't use anything put pent rating oil on the studs if they are rusty. It sounds like Discount Tire messed them up last time they rotated the tires.

 

Some GOOD penetrating oil, heat, and loosen/tighten a little bit at a time like a sticky spark plug. If that doesn't work, get a bigger gun, break them off, and replace the studs and lug nuts.

 

Oh. You didn't use stainless lug nuts and studs did you?

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^good point, similar metals have a greater propensity to gall.

 

Put then on dry. When I take them off (I have them rotated by discount tire) it's always started by hand. And rarely tightened with impact.

I torque them to Spec, as provided by DT, 105 ft lbs with my husky brand torque wrench.

Almost always removed with an impact

Avoid any tightening by impact. Do a firm snug in the air, beat with a deadblow, rubber mallet, then firm snug again. Lower and go to full torque in a criss-cross pattern (always when tightening)

 

Spec for 1998 is 87-108 ft/lb. Do you know that your torque wrench is properly calibrated? Try going with 90 ft/lbs and see what happens. Check torque after 10-50 miles of driving.

 

Being removed by impact can be part of the problem, the heat/friction from the speed makes things more likely to gall even though that alone shouldn't cause it. Try removing them by hand...

 

Yup, these are what I bought,

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-71127

I just bought some random Raybestos from rock auto so I can get my rig back on the road as soon as possible.

I torque mine to 105 ft-lbs. Same as what discount tire does.

Would putting some oil or anti seize help?

-Kyle

Again, you are torqued on the high side, and could be far more depending on the equipment. Verify this...

 

Oil or grease should not be applied, it creates a greater torque. I imagine anti sieze would do the same, but might have it's place where rust/corrosion is prevalent but I'd imagine you have to adjust for it. I've never needed to, so I'm not sure. I'd imagine you'd torque light, and you could try it on 1 lug to test.

 

B

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Almost every shop in the country buzzes lug nuts on and off with an impact and rarely have a problem. It's easier to cause yourself one if you don't stop when you sense anything odd, for sure.

 

Something else is awry here...

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I tried torquing light, I did 80 once just to see what would happen, when I bought my rig into have it rotated (same time we have been referring to) apparently I was missing 2 of them. So yeah, maybe I'll do 90 or 95 and see what happens?

 

I did not buy stainless, nuts, I don't think, check the link I posted, I'm fairly sure it said steel, I was thinking similarly with the metal differences, should I just order some OEM ones and see what happens? Could my new noise be at all contributing?

 

-Kyle

 

Something is definitely awry, I'm tempted to stick my gopro on my head, and give you guys a first hand look at what is happening to the front right and show you how I normally take off my tires.

Edited by ferrariowner123
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shouldn't need special studs or lugs, stainless or anything else, people take their lugs off everyday and don't have the problems you are having, don't know why you are having the problems you are.

 

I never use anything on my studs, I don't torque them with a torque wrench, I thread them on by hand than tighten in the star pattern than go around one more time to make sure they are tight, never had to beat the tire with a rubber mallet and never had any problems removing them. Never had a wheel come loose either.

 

Had a stud break one time when Discount tire was doing something on my former dakota, they broke it removing it.

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You don't need anti seize. Even here in rusty Ontario I never have a problem with stuck lug nuts...I would do what B says and make sure your torque wrench is working right. I never used one for the longest time, only used the factory tire wrench and never had a problem. I only bought a torque wrench when I did my tranny swap last winter.

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I never rout a wheel on withOUT a torque wrench and suggest anyone to do so PROPERLY, though people who rely on impacts and the german torque spec do help keep my fridge shelves covered.

 

For your noise in the wheel, once you tried taking the wheel off and the lugs bound, were you able to get them back to actual tight again?

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Maybe there's a really confused tweaker in your neighborhood who thinks your lug nuts are left hand thread.

 

Is the wheel damaged at all around the mounting holes? All I can think of is that the wheel's not seating right, or the lug nuts are bottoming out on the studs, and the wheel's knocking the studs around.

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