Goosevf_1 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 Yea, I understand all that now. Its not a matter of him cranking the down. I believe the bars are sagging as the adjustment has been fully turned up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I just can't see how one side would sag that much, and the other wouldn't. I've also never seen a Pathy riding that low. The only way for it to do that without the help of a hack mechanic or a Sawzall is if the T-bar splines failed, either where it mates to the lower control arm or where it mates to the adjuster. The PO may have tried to adjust it back up (maxing the adjuster), but if the splines are indeed stripped, there's no amount of adjustment that'll fix it--the bar will just spin in whichever end is stripped. Same thing happened to this guy: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 I haven't seen the front or rear anchors strip out but I did split the whole lower control arm on my 87 hardbody one time which caused the pass. front to drop down, luckily I had 2 stage torsion bars so the secondary adjuster prevented the tire from eating the fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Was gonna get going on the starter today. Looks like both bolts have been sheared. Typical nissan. Sounds like the engine is coming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 both the starter bolts? If the bolts did break, they thread into the starter so maybe you can get the starter and bolts out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Nope, no Im just an idiot. Although your post made me realize my idiocy. Im used to aircraft startes where the bolts run in at the flange of the starter, not the other side. Took me about 15 mins to get it out once I figured it out, went through the front. Didn't have to take the idler out, just had to hold my tongue the right way to get the right wiggle room to pull it out. Thanks for your help gentlemen, much appreciated, now just to fix the torsion bars :S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) Im trying to take a look into what could be the issue with the starter. Looked at all the wiring as it came out and it seemed ok. The one thing I noticed was a small (20-18GA?) orange wire that was stripped but not attached to anything. The power wire and the small wire with the spade connector to the solenoid are intact and look undisturbed. I couldnt see anything immediately that it could go to, and after checking the FSM I couldnt really find anything obvious. This wire is with the bundle of tied wires running to the starter, does anyone know what this is supposed to connect to? This may be the root of the issue. Unless I mistakenly pulled the wire off the oil pressure switch...? Im not sure. Edited July 16, 2014 by Goosevf_1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Could be the oil pressure switch wire, look to the left of the oil filter and see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 The power wire and the small wire with the spade connector to the solenoid are intact and look undisturbed. This wire is with the bundle of tied wires running to the starter, does anyone know what this is supposed to connect to? IIRC you only have the two connections at the starter, the main power and the solenoid. The third would have to be the Oil Pressure Sender as there is nothing else down there... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) The small orange wire is oil pressure switch. I've seen them disconnected more often than connected on older pathy. Easy fix . As for your torsion bars you just need to re index as it's called. I would re index both sides if it were me but if you are only sagging on one side you could get away with just doing the one. The way I do it is this: First put a sharpie mark on the torsion bar and a corresponding mark on the anchor to show original orientation. Crack the upper 19 mm nut (on the stack of two that lock down the torsion adjustment bolt) and just twist it back a thread or two until it again lines up with the nut below it. Then stick the 19 mm wrench over top of both the upper and lower nuts on the back side of the torsion adjustment bolt; this let's you crank on it without ever having the clamp nut come down on the lower nut. Now loosen the torsion adjustment bolt all the way out until it drops out (if your threads are clean you can lube the length of threads and use a ratchet to get started to make sure no threads are galled and then use an impact to spin it out as there are a LOT of threads to crank through with a ratchet). Once the bolt is out you can tap on the anchor towards the rear of the truck to drop the anchor off the back of the torsion bar. You can then shift the anchors torque arm down away from the vehicle 2 or 3 splines. This will leave the anchor much more room to tension the torsion bars. Use your sharpie marks as reference. Then just slide the adjuster bolt back into the anchor and put the two nuts back on the top and spin it back to tension. You will notice now you have much more adjustment before the anchor bottoms out into the crossmember. I usually do both sides when I do it just so I know down the road I won't have the same issue again. I eyeball and make sure both anchors are pointing at close to a 45 degree angle between the crossmember and the torque arm before I replace the adjustment bolt. As long as no threads are seized or galled the whole job only takes about an hour. Although getting each side back to exactly the same height can take a bit more trial and error as you have to load the suspension with movement/braking to settle the torsion bars after you lift the truck off the ground. I usually jack up the front, make my torsion bar adjustment that I think is adequate, then drop the front end. Fire up the truck and drive forward while hitting the braked a few good times to load the front end. Then check height measurements from a solid reference point on the truck. Then keep repeating this until 1. I have the height I want and 2. The height is the same on both sides. Once that is all done then you can set the camber with adjustment shims/washers behind the upper control arm and then take it for a toe alignment at the shop. Your pathy will never have rode better! Edited July 16, 2014 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 the rear torsion bar anchor should have a "C" clip on it holding it in, you need to remove that before the anchor will come off the bar, also I would put a jack stand under the frame so when you loosen the torsion bar adjusting bolt the truck doesn't come down on top of you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Well there's your problem... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 I would say so ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 the rear torsion bar anchor should have a "C" clip on it holding it in, you need to remove that before the anchor will come off the bar, also I would put a jack stand under the frame so when you loosen the torsion bar adjusting bolt the truck doesn't come down on top of you. forgot about the c clip! Thanks harbody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Well there's your problem... Oh, well, now you are just being technical! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 At least its an obvious problem. Not one Ive got to chase around lol. Can get a new one, using that as a core for $160CAD. Not bad at all. Now for the torsion bars. Gotta get my hands on some jackstands first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 I'd mail you mine because I now have a truck that I can get under without having to jack the damn thing up to be able to fix something. But Canadian Tire is having a sale on this week for 2 ton jackstands with locking pins: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/michelin-2t-axle-stand-0090029p.html#.U8lC8pSrrm4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Thanks for the thought! That's a damn good price, might have to make a trip there today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 Well there's your problem... yea, you might want to wipe that oil off your solenoid. Other than that, I'd say you're good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 I may also need to re-tap the anchoring bolt holes. felt a little galled. :s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 So I got my new starter in and works like a champ. Now that I actually got it to start, Im noticing a hesitations when starting. There is a lot of cranking power, just has a little trouble catching. It runs really well once its been started, no indication of stalling out or running rough. Just wondering if anyone has an idea where to start looking for this issue. Ive read that it could be a dirty maf sensor or a fuel delivery issue. Does anyone know of any common fixes for this sort of thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) How long since the fuel filter has been replaced? Have you checked the ecu for codes?? When you turn the key to on but do not start the vehicle, do you hear the fuel pump turn on and prime the system right away? Edited July 28, 2014 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 I didnt think I heard the fuel pump. I was listening but couldnt really hear it. I know some vehicles are quite quiet so I wasnt really sure. Is the fuel pump accesible or is it a tank drop scenario....I checked the cap and rotor, and plug wires. Need to thouroughly clean the engine before i take plugs out but the tops looked damn near new as did the rest of the ignition system. May look into the fuel pump this evening if I can find the time. I know that is one of the more expensive parts to replace so that wouldnt be much fun. unsure about the filter, vehicle is new to me with no service records. Thats cheap and could probably be done regardless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) the top of the plugs being clean means nothing, pull the plugs and look at them. You may need someone to turn the key to "on" while you lay under the truck to hear the fuel pump. To get to the fuel pump there is a access panel in the rear cargo area under the carpet. Edited July 29, 2014 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Youre a gentleman and a scholar. Ill get my brother to help me. Also, get off my a** and clean the top of the engine so I can take the plugs out I realize un-seeable problems are just that, but Im assuming (and would hope) that if someone were to replace distributor cap, rotor and plug wires, they would at least have the brain to do the spark plugs as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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