Savysav Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 So the other day I put in an external transmission cooler and filter for my 95 pathy with an auto. Drained the fluid, plumbed the lines, tried to remove the transmission fluid pan but the damn exhaust cross pipe (still trying to remove the bolts). Anyway, where is the refill plug for the transmission fluid? Some project pix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I added fluid through the dipstick hole. Use a funnel, obviously, or it'll go all over the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I've never seen a fill plug on an AT. But they usually have extra large dipstick tubes that you can slide a funnel into and fill that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 x3, those long skinny funnels... So the other day I put in an external transmission cooler and filter for my 95 pathy with an auto. Drained the fluid, plumbed the lines, tried to remove the transmission fluid pan but the damn exhaust cross pipe (still trying to remove the bolts). Anyway, where is the refill plug for the transmission fluid? Some project pix! Looks good! Where did you put the temp gauge? Did you plumb through the radiator still and just add the cooler, or did you bypass the radiator part? I ask because that might not be large enough as a stand alone unit... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savysav Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 Thanks for the help x3, those long skinny funnels... Looks good! Where did you put the temp gauge? Did you plumb through the radiator still and just add the cooler, or did you bypass the radiator part? I ask because that might not be large enough as a stand alone unit... B Still running through the stock cooler in the radiator. Need to get some 18g wire to get the gauge wired up. Hopefully I can get that done this weekend but then I got all my lift parts in today, so that might get delayed now...haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Just a tip on the refilling part, only add the same amount that you took out ie - four litres came out so put 4 fresh litres back in. The dipstick shows COLD on one side with a hash mark zone and on the other side it has HOT with a hash marked area. Some dipsticks may have these marks all on one side but this is how I found mine to be. Run the engine for 20 mins or just go for a drive to get the engine at proper warmed up running temperature, leave the vehicle in P and check the HOT level on the transmission - it should be near the top of the hash marked level and a nice reddish pink colour. Some of these trans have a drain plug on the pan, lucky mine has one so I don't have to get the pan off. Keep in mind just draining the pan doesn't drain all of the fluid, it only gets about half of the old out. The best way to get all of it out is taking off one of the trans lines to the trans cooler and then start up, the fluid will get pumped out at a fast rate so have a bucket under the trans line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 x3, those long skinny funnels... Looks good! Where did you put the temp gauge? Did you plumb through the radiator still and just add the cooler, or did you bypass the radiator part? I ask because that might not be large enough as a stand alone unit... B You are kidding right? Nice cooler, just like the one I pulled off a Ford Explorer. Aftermarket of course. I have used similar ones desert racing Class 5, durable and efficient. I would have mounted it in/out down though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Of course not. That one looks to be about 7.5x11" and has to be 3/4" thick to fit there without mods. I have a 6x11x3/4" mounted solo with a temp gauge and on hot days going over local passes, it would hit 180 degrees and still be climbing going down the other side. Too hot in my book! I have one I took out of a Ford Explorer, stock of course, that measures 7.5x11x3/4" that I plan to mount and run the same way; after the radiator cooler and filter. The filter will make sure the radiator doesn't clog, the radiator will warm the tranny on cold mornings and do a better job of maintaining the tranny temp with the cooler taking care of the extra heat under load. I might even install a thermal switch if that doesn't do what I want. It is worth it to me not be swapping trannys... FYI, a Hayden 9.5x11x3/4" plate style cooler is rated up to 5,000lbs, so that is barely adequate alone and not at all excessive. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-678 The one you had mounted when desert racing class 5, that was that same size on a Pathfinder, it was mounted solo and you had a temp gauge installed? What temp did it run at? Everyone has different mounting preferences. I prefer the sideways mount with the inlet at the bottom so there is no chance to trap air, but I have also read that the line pressure is sufficient to make that a non issue. I don't know what is right, but I prefer to play it safe and it allowed better esposure for both the cooler and radiator with my winch bumper IIRC. Thanks for the help Still running through the stock cooler in the radiator. Need to get some 18g wire to get the gauge wired up. Hopefully I can get that done this weekend but then I got all my lift parts in today, so that might get delayed now...haha You are welcome. Like I said above, I'm convinced that is the best overall way to do it and plan to change my system to match. It should work well... When you do get the temp system set up, please post what you did with the sender and gauge. There are a few different ways to do it, and it will help people to be able to see what you did. Congrats and good luck with the lift BTW. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savysav Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 System Parts Installed B&M 70268 (11" x 7-1/4" x 3/4"): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIGE9G Derale 13091 Transmission Filter Kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XONO2A Extra hose Plumbing Setup transmission out > filter in > filter out > radiator in > radiator out > B&M cooler in > B&M cooler out > transmission in I have the inlet into the B&M cooler on top. Do you think that's going to be a problem? We will see how the temps are when I get some fresh fluids in the system. That's only going to happen when I can figure out how to loose the exhaust bolts so I can drop the pan and replace the the filter and gasket. The temp sender unit is screwed into the cap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Thank you for that! That is quite a deal for the filter/gauge kit! I believe I spent more than that piecing it together and still had to make a T for the sender unit. Only I am a little surpirsed by the temp range on the gauge, it seems to be more for oil than ATF. You don't want to be at/over 200/220 deg for very long as it degrade the fluid very quickly! Again, there has been some discussion on the 'right 'way to plumb a cooler, and generally most people go with the inlet on the bottom or both ports on the top, but I have heard it doesn't matter as well. No instructions with the cooler? I have also heard some coolers are directional as well, so make sure that isn't the case with yours. Otherwise, looks good to me! Where do you plan to put the gauge? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Mine has both hoses at the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savysav Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 I think I'll be using that gauge temporarily. I agree the read out range is not that great. I eventually plan to fabricate my own A-pillar pods to hold around 3-4 auto meter gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 It will still work fine, I'm just surprised they included that one in the package. Why fab one when you should be able just to buy one? I recall that once the mold is made they should be able to be ordered. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31242-pillar-gauge-pod/?hl=%2Bgauge+%2Bpillar B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savysav Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Well here's the update. Installed my 3" lift, looks great rides even better. I was testing out my tranny temp gauge and looks like I'm having some pretty high temps peaking at 220 climbing the mountain roads. Going to double check the plumbing and see if I have any bends in the lines. Not sure what else it could be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Maybe a larger or second cooler? Do you have any other way to double check the temp? Even a meat thermometer would do it if you can just access the ATF. How about removing the sensor and droping it in a cup of boiling water along with said meat probe and seeing if they both read the same. In 20 years of manufacturing, I learned that if you get results you can't explain, double check the measuring equipment. Have you checked for good flow by putting the out line into a bucket and having someone fire it up for 3 seconds? It is easy to put back in if you bought that funnel... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savysav Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 I'll have to check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Reverse Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 The trans temps look normal to me. The trans is designed for the fluid to be about the same as the engine coolant. Normal temps are about 180-210 F. I know that when mine is below 150, it is not happy and will not allow converter lockup to get the trans up to operating temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savysav Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 The trans temps look normal to me. The trans is designed for the fluid to be about the same as the engine coolant. Normal temps are about 180-210 F. I know that when mine is below 150, it is not happy and will not allow converter lockup to get the trans up to operating temps. Thanks. Drove around the other day and was around 180-200. I think I'm just a little paranoid after hearing so many transmission horror stories. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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