MrEviLDeD Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 OK, well all of my goings on and such were for naught. The inspector said that there is so much wrong with the pathfinder that it isn't worth fixing. He gave me a little list, like CV boots, and a severe shake in the front end. Something about the rear seal leaking and that is leaking so much oil. I haven't seen it drip even one drop of oil. Said something about some of the metal fuel lines have been replaced with rubber and that isnt' allowed.. I made a really bad choice picking up the other pathfinder. now I am about 2500 more in the whole with purchase, travel and expenses and parts etc and have two useless pathfinders.. This completely is completely devastating. I apologize for wasting any of your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) WOW. Pardon my over-reaction. I have however gotten the actual report back. I had not actually read it out and seen what had failed before I posted. Just responded to the guy saying that everyting was wrong with it and not worth fixing.... Everyone please excuse my poor behavior. Following is a list of things that are failed: Pre-Inspection: CV Join Road Test Result Vehicle Wanders or Pulls Driveability Notes: Vehicle wanders and pulls right - bad vibration/pulsation in front end (I have no idea what that means) Lamps: Lamps (general) Daytime Running Lamps Notes: Daytime running lamps inoperative-requires diagnosis and/or repair Exterior General: Bumpers Notes: Rear bumper rusted through-improper repair performed Under Hood: Battery Accessory Belt Drive System Fuel System Oil Leaks Notes: No proper battery hold down-belts cracked, improper fuel lines, major oil leaks(requires diagnosis) Steering and Suspension: Wheel bearings Notes: Excessive front wheel bearing play Tires and Wheels: Tire condition (my own fault, I had two new ones to put on but they were out of town) Notes: Front tires separated and wobble Under Vehicle: Bumpers Engine Drive Axles / Propeller Shafts Fuel System Notes: Rear bumper rusted through and improperly repaired, major oil leaks(required diagnosis and/or repair), both front CV boots torn, improper fuel line repair and improper routing Thank fully some of it actually passed, 119 point inspection this one was... WOW.. The fuel line wasn't my patch but seems to be that whoever had the truck replaces the steel lines running to the back with rubber ones.. Regarding the tires I had two good ones just didn't get a chance to pull them to put on the pathfinder before the inspection. The ones on there looked pretty good.. Anyhow.. Seems to me almost a pretty easy list of things to fix with the exception of the rear seal and or finding out where the oil is leaking from. He said it is "wet" but I haven't seen any oil drip from this vehicle. I was warned by the fellow that I bought it from that the rear seal was a little worn as well as the CV Joints and the used conditioner to keep things together.. Should have thrown some in before heading over... and given the engine a good wash.... Saved myself some trouble... With that said. Again everyone I apologize for my childish behavior. I will always love pathfinders and some of you guys have been simply awesome here at NPORA. I will fix it! Cheers Edited February 25, 2014 by MrEviLDeD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 For the bumper, put the one from your other pathfinder on. CV axles should not fail an inspection, they only turn in 4wd. At least they won't fail a safety here. It probably needs an alignment and a tire balance. You can adjust the wheel bearings pretty easily, look in the FSM. It might be causing the pull and part of the wobble. The daytime running lights, pull the module and re solder all the joints, or pull the one from your other pathfinder. Or wire the low beams to come on with the ignition. Battery hold down and belts are easy to do, get them at part source or somthing. They have universal battery hold downs that work just fine, or take the one off your other pathy. You can get lifetime warranty cv shafts at partsource or CT. I just got remanufactured ones though, they work and fit fine. Unless it is pissing oil I don't see why it would fail for that. If it is the rear main you need to slide the transmission back to change it. About an 8 hour job. Easier if you have a 5 speed than an auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Yea I was surprised. I chalk it up to Alberta making unfair demands on vehicle inspections. Because it is an "import" from BC into AB it is subject to a 119 point inspection. If it was a car from AB then it would have only be a 46 point inspection. I have no way to scan it but i have the report right here just makes you blink.. At least it wasn't or isn't as bad as I thought it would be. The fuel line might be a problem but outside of that couple of new CV axles(rmfg or not) and some quick fixes with the other stuff seems like it should put the truck back in order.. Just not looking forward to the rear seal. It is a 5-speed so glad to hear it will be slightly easier.. What tools would I need for that. Guess I can get that from the FSM. Are the wheel bearings hard to change? Would it be worth to replace or just try to adjust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stabworthy Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I'mssssoooooooo glad, I don't have to go though that detailed of a inspection. Something tells me my bailing wire exhaust mounts would not pass. Every time i go in , I can tell the inspector is ready to fail me, but she burns clean, one year the guy had to run it twice out of disbelief. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Dang, I'm glad we don't have inspections here. Actually, on second thought ... what the heck is being allowed to drive next to me!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Dang, I'm glad we don't have inspections here. Actually, on second thought ... what the heck is being allowed to drive next to me!! Which is why I love annual safety inspections here in PA, even if that don't mean much at some garages. Lick and stick shops do exist, I just don't like them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Really took the wind out of my sails to be honest. Now to come up with another whack of cash and I she will be fixed. Regarding the suggestion about taking my old pathfinder bumper. The guy had some gm bumper on it. It fits but would that have passed? I will have to scope the wreckers and or consider paying with 160$ to nissan if they still have them. Just going to replace the cv axles. 99$ each from PartSource. The front and rear oil seals should be what 5$ each? Need to price out or scavenge a complete fuel line unless Nissan has it reasonably priced. Could get it back on the road for not that much. One things with Pathfinders is they are always chalk full of adventure.. Sometimes good, sometimes bad, often great... =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I would just adjust and repack the bearings if they spin smooth. For the bumper maybe hit up a wrecking yard. Fuel line you can buy at napa and the like, I bought a 25 foot roll of metal fuel line for like 12 bucks. Then you just flare the ends and clamp the hose on. For the rear main seal I bought mine at nissan and it was about 40 dollars. The front main seal is behind the timing belt so you'd need at least a new timing belt, which wouldn't hurt to do anyways if you plan on keeping it, and after putting all that time into it to pass inspection, it would be a shame if the belt broke. Pulling the trans doesn't take any special tools, on mine I know I needed a lot of extensions. A torque wrench is also handy. For the seal itself you wanna be real careful not to scratch the crank or it will leak forever even with new seal. You can get repair sleeves though. Don't let anyone talk you into throwing a new motor at it just because of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 For the bumper, put the one from your other pathfinder on. CV axles should not fail an inspection, they only turn in 4wd. At least they won't fail a safety here. It probably needs an alignment and a tire balance. You can adjust the wheel bearings pretty easily, look in the FSM. It might be causing the pull and part of the wobble. The daytime running lights, pull the module and re solder all the joints, or pull the one from your other pathfinder. Or wire the low beams to come on with the ignition. Battery hold down and belts are easy to do, get them at part source or somthing. They have universal battery hold downs that work just fine, or take the one off your other pathy. You can get lifetime warranty cv shafts at partsource or CT. I just got remanufactured ones though, they work and fit fine. Unless it is pissing oil I don't see why it would fail for that. If it is the rear main you need to slide the transmission back to change it. About an 8 hour job. Easier if you have a 5 speed than an auto. Will I need anything special to replace the CV Axles in terms of tools? Also while I am at the front end the costs aren't high should I replace the tie rods? I suspect if there was anything wrong with them it would have been in the report. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 not familiar with the d21 but with the R50 all you need is some metric sockets a pry bar and a few bad words to say as you pry the dam things out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 You'll need a pair of snap ring pliers to take the, of course, snap ring, off after you remove the hubs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Even though the tie rods were not listed, they could be part of the loose feeling/wobbling that was noted. I would check out the center link also. Rock auto has the right parts, I just ordered the whole setup, center link, 4 tie rod ends, adjusting sleeve, and the tension rod bushings for $204 delivered. All moog brand parts. Also you have some minor leaks, I can give you a good quick fix... my ex-son in law had a good transmission leak along the pan join, he washed it up with gunk and let dry out. Then he sprayed the whole thing with clear flex seal, the kind you see on infomercials. I know it sounds like a red neck fix, but I know it worked real good, he stopped leaking fluid all over my driveway. A hard ware store or auto parts store should have the spray sealant. Hang in there, I felt something like you did just last week. I keep fixing one part and then find something else that needs fixing, WELL after I did a simple tune up the truck ran so rough I thought it was blown, however a few guy's here got me refocused and found a simple ground wire was broken off, I was going to give up, have been working on it since January last year and still haven't got the truck good enough to drive around more than local store and back. I got into the truck as a project that I knew would be a slow process, however its frustrating to get thing fixed and then find 5 more things to throw cash at. It's not just parts also, there is all the new tools you need to complete the repairs, they cost more cash than the parts at times, but then sit in the tool box until you need to make the same repair in 5 or more years. Sorry about the long story, the short of course is when we get done with the repairs, we will have a truck that we can smile at and know it is one of the best 4x4 trucks made. Stand strong and we will all help you through it. Never be afraid to ask for help, I know I sure ask alot and get good advice from all the very smart people on here. So here's to the future Nissan Pathfinder that will take you to all the adventures you have and want!! B-) Edited February 26, 2014 by Nissanland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I think most of us have heard "it's not worth fixing" at some point. It doesn't mean "it's unfixable," it means the person you're talking to would give up. If it's worth it to you, take it as a challenge and keep wrenching. (To be fair, though, if you were having a shop do all this, you'd probably end up putting gobs of cash into it.) Sounds like you know what needs doing. I imagine it'll track a lot better once you get the wheel bearings and the knackered tires sorted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) In my opinion when a mechanic says its not worth it, either they are lazy or they must be retarded because they are turning down business in today's economy. I suppose there are honest ones out there but when they just bluntly tell you your car is a pos buy a new one, well fskc you. I had this happen once. Took it somewhere else and they were able to get me sorted for half the cost and just as good of a repair. Edited February 26, 2014 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Thanks for the words of encouragement. Not to sound corny but I have grown quite fond of this community. You are all pretty great folks and I am honored to be welcomed. Eventually I hope to be able to give back in some way as many of you have. Cheers! With that said, let's see if I cannot get this fixed before my grace time for repairs on the inspection is up (10 days). CV Axles are already in. Going to check some wreckers for the fuel lines and the bumper. I will check the other front end parts but I do not have the outlay of another 205 for the sway bar and such. Maybe at bet the tie rod ends.. But this would be a good start right? I can do the other parts later, after the inspection? Again thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Do you have a napa or other parts store around you? You can buy universal metal fuel line (it comes in rolls) to replace the bad ones. You don't need to buy them at the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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