2001.5 wont shift into 3-4... cant be good

[Canadian]

Hey guys, Im over my head on this one and hope to repair it with the forums help before I brake down and bring it to a shop and eat Ramen noodles for a year. Luckily I dont need the truck so it can sit til I fix it and limp it around

It is a 2001.5 with VQ35DE engine and auto 4 speed R code trans, has 120k on it. The problem seems to be transmission related but after some research there are so many things that can cause transmissions issues on this truck its crazy. Its very cold here in canada, which isnt helping. Just this weekend I did a full trans cooler flush with 20L of fresh DexIII and Lubegaurd red, fluid level is perfect.

 

 

The car did throw 2 codes and I looked them up the first day I had the problem but I erased them and the important one didnt come back, it had something to do with the torque convertor, I believe it was P1744 or P17?? Im silly for not writing it down. And the other code was for the evap but that wouldnt cause this issue would it?

Problem is when I start driving, it revs much to high shifting 1-2, and then just wont shift anymore. Kind of like a limp mode, luckily I only work 3miles from home and dont mind driving in 2nd @ 3k rpm and 35mph. it just wont shift, stays at that rpm, feels like the torque convertor isnt licking up and letting it shift. Once fully warmed the 1-2 shift will behave normal.

Is there some sort of reset or relearns that I must do properly first? I changed the fuel filter today because I thought it had maybe sat to long without moving, but fuel conditioner was put in the tank before it was parked a year ago, and was moved/started every month.

Just 2 days ago I discoverred the PO had installed a Maxima MAF, but he gave me the OEM QX4 one in a box, after alot of reading i thought it may be MAF related so I cleaned the oem one today with proper MAF cleaner and installed it, but it changed nothing. Possibly needs to reset ecu first?

I know Im in deep with this problem, but I live in such a small town that I dont trust to take it to a local shop, I will honestly compensate a member or even a charity if they wish to help me fix this problem. Not even kidding, $100 anyone?

Hope someone has some experience to help me fix this, cheers guys

[Canadian]

Just popped into my head after some researching aswell, this truck is actually LOWERRED using 4x4parts springs.

 

Could the driveshaft somehow be compressing to much and causing some sort of bind/trouble enough to cause this? I do believe my shaft to be in poor shape, but I did just grease its zerk with wheel bearing grease. The truck did shift hard and make some " drive shaft related " noises that are hard to describe before I flushed the trans fluid, now it makes a slight whirring while idling after driving

 

My truck being 2wd might be different than most here but that "troubleshoot" just popped in my head

Edited November 13, 2013 by Canadian

[Rebelord]

Dex 3? Nissan transmission take Nissan Matic-D. Not Dex 3.

Outside of the dealership Castrol Multi Import is the only one my dealer will honor warranty with. There are two import fluids. Get the correct one for Nissan.

 

Hopefully Towncivillian or Alkorhahil or Precise1 can chime in

 

Sent from my Moto X!

 

 

[bushnut]

mine always shifts hard in the cold(,-15C and colder) though it hasn't been that cold yet. I let mine warm up for 2-4 minutes (command start is great!) then when I get in with my foot on the brake I'll shift into D or R but I don't take off until the Rev counter comes back down to around 800.

 

I do agree that you should get some Nissan "D" in there. however if there is a problem with your torque converter I'd track down a new(used) trany rather than fixing it.

[Towncivilian]

Plain DexIII is specified as suitable by the FSM (at least for Canada - maybe because Matic D is harder to find). But plain DexIII should not be causing this problem as long as the fluid level when hot is correct.

 

I replied on NICO (sorry for the delay) to adjust closed throttle position switch, which could be causing this issue according to the AT section of the FSM for not shifting D3->D4.

[Canadian]

Thank you town, I literally just told my boss Im sick and to get me coverred for the day so i can go try this

[Rebelord]

Sounds like you got some good answers. I made my post as from my manual for my 99 just states Matic-D

 

Sent from my Moto X!

 

 

[Canadian]

Yeah I was aware I could use good quality Dex III

 

I did a TPS calibration today aswell as a tps reset procedure but cleared nothing up as of yet, Im not so huge on the key on 5 second, key off 10 second procedures, as they dont tell you if they were successful or not

 

I disconnected the battery last night and reconnected it this morning before doing this calibration, about 10 hours, and my CEL was still not cleared so i suppose I have to leave it disconnected even longer for it to clear the ecu?

[Canadian]

Car threw the evap code P1446 while test driving, but I doubt that is causing this issue.

 

Has anyone ever had much success doing the relearn key on key off procedures? Im not sure my car is taking to them

[Canadian]

After finding a labeled diagram of which connector the "throttle closed position switch" was with a lamens diagram showings its orientation on the engine *EC-178*, it is indeed flipped from how they show it on EC-170, and the correct pins to be testing for continuity while adjusting it are from the bottom connector when looking over the engine, testing the top 2 pins in that connector

I most likely was testing the wrong pins, will redo after some sleep

[Kyle94]

I did the key idle re-learn proceedure and it fixed a lot of problems i was having a few weeks back. So it does work... you just have to make sure you count them all, do a few extra if you think you missed a few, and count the seconds on and off... gets boring after a while.

[Canadian]

Sucessfully calibrated the TPS, after starting the truck to let it warm before preforming the relearn key cycles the car was idling @ 1200 fully warmed, and after doing the key cycles it idles at a perfect 750 so I think that worked great. I then triple checked the calibration test again, continuity with .002" feeler gauge, no continuity with .006" feeler.

Took her for a test drive, still didnt shift into 3-4

Is it possible the car wouldnt "learn" to shift and needs a full ecu reset?? I have yet to pull the negative cable for 24 hours... but I think im pulling at dead straws here

Is there anything else that would cause no D3-4, or am I fighting a lost cause and I need a transmission.

I also checked trans fluid again and its still in perfect level on the hot side, and fresh smelling.

[SkiMachine]

Just to clarify - The issues started after the transmission flush, or was that an attempt at fixing the problem? What was the fluid quality like pre-flush?

Have you gone through the whole list of diagnostic tests in the FSM for that year? From that FSM:

For the D1 to D2 shift timing issue:

1. Throttle position sensor (Adjustment)
2. Vehicle speed sensor·A/T (Revolution sensor) and vehicle speed sensor·MTR
3. Shift solenoid valve A
4. Shift solenoid valve B

All technically on-vehicle serviceable, if you have a warm garage to work in. Oddly enough, item #2 apparently will not trigger a ODBII code and needs to be sauced out with the O/D blinking light test.

For the no D2 to D3 shift issue:

1. Park/neutral position (PNP) switch adjustment
2. Manual control linkage adjustment
3. Shift solenoid valve B
4. Control valve assembly
5. Vehicle speed sensor·A/T and vehicle speed sensor·MTR
6. High clutch
7. Brake band

6 and 7 would mean it's rebuild/replacement time and would likely be accompanied by slippage I'd imagine. I'd obviously focus on the two common items, the speed sensors and shift solenoid B first. That said, IIRC 3rd occurs when both solenoids are off, which is why limp mode uses 3rd - unless something has changed from my 94'. The PNP switch and manual linkage are also worth checking. The first can cause the TCU to not even try to shift into 3rd, the later may prevent the valve body from doing so.

Edited November 15, 2013 by SkiMachine

[Slartibartfast]

The failsafe mode is to lock into third gear, and since it's not doing that, I suspect the computer doesn't know there's anything wrong. The FSM tests are probably your best bet, but if you find yourself underneath, take a good look at the wiring. A busted wire or a corroded plug could be screwing with things.

[Canadian]

The flush was an attempt to fix the problem, it was pre-existing, but I hadnt drive the car in a while ( have a summer car ) and as soon as I put this truck back on the road, I immediately noticed it wasnt shifting correctly and made a few odd noises and was problematic shifting from 2-3 and 3-4, at the same time my alternator was showing signs of weakness, and died, so it took me a day or two to source and fix that, and while I was at it I flushed the trans with 15L of Shell DexIII ATF since the old stuff did look black and not have a fresh smell to it. And gear 2 and 3 just havent returned.

 

You mention speed sensor, Im not quite sure where that is I will have to look it up. The car does have bigger tires on it than from factory, could that be enough to fool anything? Its a 3.5% (1" OD) difference according to an online calculator

 

I'll have to research where the PNP switch is and how to test it. The car will have sat for 36 hours by the morning with the battery disconnected. I also got my ultra-gauge in the mail today which can tell me alot of sensor information, Id like to see what the car is saying its at throttle position % wise compared to the ultra-gauge

 

Sounds like I may be facing a used transmission purchase, but Id love to rule out electronics first, would hate to do a trans swp and still have this problem. My walker oem stainless replacement exhaust arrived today aswell so that will go on tomorrow, the car is open after the resonators right now.

 

I also got another 2wd driveshaft with boots intact from a junkyard online, since I feel mine to be in poor shape with ripped boots and a possibly "whining" center bearing. The used one is in much better shape, so I'll probably swap that in the morning aswell.

 

Connect the battery, start the truck up, and go from there. Finally the weekend

 

 

Edited November 16, 2013 by Canadian

[Canadian]

So i connected the battery this morning after nearly 2 days, started the truck up and it died, started again with a little throttle and it was idling real low. 525 rpm according to my ultragauge, took it for a spin and it still wasnt shifting. Idle fully warmed set at about 600rpm, so it looks like I may have to do the idle air relearn procedure.

One thing I should mention about the shifting, when the fluid is cold, and the gear selector in D while driving, the trans will shift 1-2 no problem, but once the fluid is warmed and you accelerate from a stop it is very hesitant to even shift into second gear. But if you move the gear selector to D2 while slowly accelerating, it will shift perfectly as you select it. Dont know if that gives anything away as far as possible symptoms

This moment I just finished installing the stock style exhaust, which will e great to hear myself think and what the car is doing lol. Then I'll tackel the driveshaft swap for an hour or so.

Dont really know where to go from here

[adamzan]

Sounds to me like a new or used trans is in order.

[Canadian]

Im not going to say I understand the FSM, because I really dont. But shift solenoid B comes up ALOT in the diagnosis of P0744. I see no real lamens diagrams of how to really access or test it though.

Im not sure if I should buy a used trans for $500 and hope I can change it myself. Or if this transmission is worth opening and replacing parts. Ive obviously never seen the inside of an automatic transmission. Ive rebuilt Honda engines before, but they dont seem near as complicated or electric dependant

I also dont want to depend on the code P0744 so much as it only triggerred once, and hasnt again, should I drive around in second gear for a period of time to see what errors are thrown or am I just causing more damage that way

[Canadian]

Does anyone have a good pic of the PNP switch? Id like to rule that out but honestly cant even find its location or a way to check/adjust it.

[Canadian]

NVM AT-102 and 103 have good descriptions, but a little vaugue since Im not staring at it I guess. Come daybreak thats my starting point. Would love any advice people might have on this problem

 

Were did third and fourth disappear to!

Edited November 17, 2013 by Canadian

[SkiMachine]

Does your scan tool allow you to view TCU output in real time? If so you could watch for the A and B solenoids to be commanded off while you have someone drive for you - If that occurs and it still does not shift to 3rd, then your problem is definitively mechanical in nature. The solenoids could be sticking, or clogged. The black fluid would not have done them - or anything else - any good unfortunately.

[Canadian]

No its definetely not capable of monitoring that.

[Canadian]

I got the front end jacked up to look at the PNP switch and its connector, and wow is is ever tight there. Cant see the connectors at all, couldnt reach them if I wanted to. This problem is over my head.

Now here lies the problem, who do I enlist to fix it for me?

The car is a little modified, so Im not sure if that will shy shops away or cause problems.It has an AGM battery under the hood, with an unconventional "threaded" top terminal. And also multiple large gauge grounds in and to different places than OEM, obviously there upgrades for the stereo though. It has 2 extra Optima batteries in the trunk for my stereo, so there is 0 gauge fused power wires going to the front and back aswell. Electric fans deleted the factory thermal clutch fan.

Im not positive my transmission needs to be replaced at this point. So in that sence I think an Infiniti dealership would serve me well (would nissan dealership touch it?) as they could do a good diagnostic and probably pinpoint the problem accurately, as they built the car right But charge me $125 and hour...? And take 9 hours to change a shift solenoid, oem parts and labour add up quick

I can also try a well reviewed local transmission shop, but I fear they may not be specialized enough to diagnose and may be quick to sell me a complete transmission overhaul for $2,000, or is a transmission shop generally capable of maybe saving you some money...

I think i need to hire someone at this point though, I could always purchase a used low mileage tranny off ebay for about $600, pay someone $4-500 to install it. But thats a crapshoot with a lot of chance, hoping its something internally damaged

[Slartibartfast]

In theory, the dealership would know what to test for, and pinpoint the problem quickly. From what I've read, though, it often degrades to "I dunno, let's throw parts at it until the problem goes away." You need a mechanic, not a part replacer. Unless you've heard good things about your local dealer, I'd take it to a trans shop. Your mods don't sound too drastic, but you might mention them, just so they know what they're dealing with. So long as it's not slammed too low to get onto the ramps, I doubt they'll complain too much.