fast5speed Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Hi there, I have a 1994 D21 King Cab, 4x4, v6, 5speed. It's up to about 150k miles on it. Since I've gotten the truck (at 125k), I've replaced many, many parts, especially in the front end, but it seems to be much more...loose and sloppy than when I got it. The problem is that my steering wheel has a lot of play. I estimate as much as 20-30 degrees. I mean this in the sense that when I am driving straight, I have to turn the wheel 20-30 degrees before the vehicle moves in a different direction. Also, another problem I have is "bump steer", as it has been explained to me. Simply put, sometimes my truck will pull to the left, but sometimes it will pull to the right. Sometimes, in order to make the vehicle track straight, I have to hold the steering wheel 20-30 to the left. Sometimes I have to do the same, but hold it to the right. Occasionally, it will track straight without any adjustments. I'm not sure if this is related at all, but the truck has a very harsh ride. It is not smooth at all. Here is a list of parts I have replaced recently: Upper and lower ball joints pass. side. Upper ball joint driver's side. I haven't finished replacing the lower ball joint on driver's set yet. inner and outer tie rods, and adjustment sleeve; both sides Both CV axles shocks at all 4 corners strut rod bushings sway bar bushings stabilizer bar bushings (this is different than sway bar bushings) I need an alignment badly, but my plan was to replace all worn parts prior to taking it for an alignment. What's left to be replaced? Idler arm? center link? Where could this play in the system be coming from? thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 (edited) To me it sounds like a steering box/pump. You should never have a 1/4 turn before the wheels start to turn. Have you changed the tie rod ends, or the upper and lower ball joints. If you don't have a steering stabilizer that may help with the sloppy feeling. A lot of drivers swear by them. I would look into the garage forum to see if you can find a write up on the steering box and troubleshooting it from there. IIRC there's a few in there that may help you Edited November 12, 2013 by Nissanland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Ah another d21 owner! Hardbody unit! Anyways to answer your question, I'd grab a buddy have him jump in the driver seat and steer from left to right while your under the front taking a look at the steering components, see what moves and what doesn't, this should easily point out the issue, my guess would be a ball joint or where the pitman arm attaches to the steering rod (sorry for lack of better terminology) I wouldn't do this test when the truck is on stands, do it under load the issue might disappear when the front suspension drops (if you know what I mean, if you ever take a look when it's on stands both wheels point inwards) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Check your idler arm and centerlink as well. If you see any twisting or lateral play, they're toast. The steering box can be adjusted if that is the issue, too. There are a few posts on it around here, if you search around you'll find them, if you can't I'll post the links when I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast5speed Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 You should never have a 1/4 turn before the wheels start to turn. Have you changed the tie rod ends, or the upper and lower ball joints. A circle is composed of 360 degrees. 20-30 degrees would be 5-8% of a turn. steering wheel has a lot of play. I estimate as much as 20-30 degrees. Here is a list of parts I have replaced recently: Upper and lower ball joints pass. side. Upper ball joint driver's side. I haven't finished replacing the lower ball joint on driver's set yet. inner and outer tie rods, and adjustment sleeve; both sides Both CV axles shocks at all 4 corners strut rod bushings sway bar bushings stabilizer bar bushings (this is different than sway bar bushings) Ah another d21 owner! Hardbody unit! LOVE, LOVE, LOVE them. I just really hate how aftermarket support is so lacking. Anyways to answer your question, I'd grab a buddy have him jump in the driver seat and steer from left to right while your under the front taking a look at the steering components, see what moves and what doesn't, this should easily point out the issue, my guess would be a ball joint or where the pitman arm attaches to the steering rod (sorry for lack of better terminology) Center link? I tried this before with my girlfriend and...well, you probably know how it went with that. "What do I do again??...Why??...This is stupid...I'm hungry!... Can't you just sell this stupid old truck and get a new one already??" I'll find a better candidate and try again Check your idler arm and centerlink as well. If you see any twisting or lateral play, they're toast. The steering box can be adjusted if that is the issue, too. There are a few posts on it around here, if you search around you'll find them, if you can't I'll post the links when I get home. What is the issue with the steering box? Low on fluid? Gunk build-up? I just bought an idler arm off rockauto last night, but I was a little hesitant to spend $70 on a center link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I tried this before with my girlfriend and...well, you probably know how it went with that. "What do I do again??...Why??...This is stupid...I'm hungry!... Can't you just sell this stupid old truck and get a new one already??" I'll find a better candidate and try again. been there done that hahah never goes well lol Thanks for the correction, I didn't consider the idler arm that could be it... Could have tapered the hole? Atlease you can do a side by side comparison. And yes, aftermarket support is obsolete... Unless your over seas you have a bit more options but still. It's something that plagues nissan owners... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast5speed Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 And yes, aftermarket support is obsolete... Unless your over seas you have a bit more options but still. It's something that plagues nissan owners... I think Japan just hates us (the US). Other countries always get the good stuff. For example, I'm a bit of a Honda guy now (I know I know, but don't bust my chops too badly), Honda will sell a car in multiple countries. In Japan they will give it a 100hp motor, Canada will get a 80hp motor, and the US will get a 70hp motor in the same car! Well, thanks Honda... Honda didn't even sell any of the good stuff over here. Other parts of the world get the badass Nissan Patrol! We didn't get that Nor did we get diesel Hardbodies or Pathys! And the crew cab D21?! COME ON!!! I am not a fan of crew cab trucks at all (especially compacts), but Toyota sold their Crew Cab Tacoma over here years after Nissan had a CC D21, and Toyota cleaned house! Years after Toyota sells the CC Tacoma, Nissan finally sells a CC Frontier over here. Bleh! Don't even get me started on Skylines and the RB motors! This is mostly sarcastic, as I understand the red tape with emissions and all that junk, but still. We usually get the short end of the stick thanks to our regulations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I tried this before with my girlfriend and...well, you probably know how it went with that. "What do I do again??...Why??...This is stupid...I'm hungry!... Can't you just sell this stupid old truck and get a new one already??" I'll find a better candidate and try again When you get sick of that stupid old truck, I'll take it... What is the issue with the steering box? Low on fluid? Gunk build-up? I just bought an idler arm off rockauto last night, but I was a little hesitant to spend $70 on a center link. It is actually a gear drive, with a worm gear adjustment screw on the top. You loosen the lock nut, and turn the set screw clockwiase with a screw driver, holding it in place while you tighten the lock nut. This is the last thing you do after you verify all the other components are in good shape and that there actually is play in the box. Even then 1/8-1/4 turn is usually the most you will need to turn it, it is a fine adjustment. The stock idler arm can be rebuilt for a few dollars, there are plastic bushings in side that can be bought from the dealership. Yes, the idler arm and centerlink are the most likely culprits left, but make sure to check the control arm bushings (jack it up and wiggle the wheel, watch for any movement) as well. There is also a rubber flex coupling on the steering shaft by the firewall (rag joint IIRC), make sure that is not torn or deteriorated. I'd avoid a steering stabilizer until you have identified and repaired the issue. No benefit in masking a problem... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 What?! CC D21!! Hahah never heard of that until now, damn... They look butt ugly but still, CC! Man I would almost kill for a 4.2 L diesel patrol... I was even thinking of swapping a td42 into my hardbody but now I'm thinking twice, sure I could stay nissan, it's just parts... Engine breaks down, your waiting a couple weeks for parts to be shipping from Japan, and the cost too. Almost too much, but we will see. Might just go with the tried and true Chevy small block, or if I have the money LS1... Drool.. anyways I'm going way off topic 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Replace that center link, the other ball joint, and get an alignment. If your toe is off, it can cause a pull like that. Also, if your toe is off, and your centerlink is bad it can't make up its mind on which wheel to steer so that's why sometimes you have to hold the wheel to the left or to the right to stay straight. Other than that, it's just the bushings that are in the control arms at the mounting points that you haven't replaced. They can go bad over time, but usually are fine with 150k miles or whatnot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast5speed Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 bushings that are in the control arms at the mounting points that you haven't replaced. They can go bad over time, but usually are fine with 150k miles or whatnot. Bit of sarcasm...? Not entirely sure. I bought upper control arm bushings a while back. When I was rebuilding my front end with my dad, and I had everything apart, I was trying to convince him to help me replace the control arm bushings...he was like "ahhh...that's a bunch of work. They don't even look worn!" They do look like a PITA to replace though. Just curious, If the alignment shop wanted to adjust my camber, would they have to tear down my front end and put another shim between the upper control arm and the frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 If the alignment shop wanted to adjust my camber, would they have to tear down my front end and put another shim between the upper control arm and the frame? Yes, but tear down is an over statement, more like loosen 2 bolts, insert shim and tighten 2 bolts. Bit of sarcasm...? Not entirely sure. It all depends on the age of the vehicle, mileage, road/weather conditions, driving style, maintanence, if it was used off road, etc. There is no set amount, a friend of mine bought a 1991 pathy with 140k that had after market poly bushings that were shot, and others haven't changed the stock ones at 200k. Your best bet is to jack it up, try to move the tire and see what happens... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast5speed Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 What?! CC D21!! Hahah never heard of that until now, damn... They look butt ugly but still, CC! Man I would almost kill for a 4.2 L diesel patrol... I was even thinking of swapping a td42 into my hardbody but now I'm thinking twice, sure I could stay nissan, it's just parts... Engine breaks down, your waiting a couple weeks for parts to be shipping from Japan, and the cost too. Almost too much, but we will see. Might just go with the tried and true Chevy small block, or if I have the money LS1... Drool.. anyways I'm going way off topic There ya go! I don't like how these look at all. I think pretty much all crew cab trucks look goofy. The compacts (D21, Chevy S10, Tacoma, etc) look especially bad because the bed is shorted to like 3-4 feet. Pretty much making it useless as a truck...To me, it just looks all wack and out of proportion. The only one I would consider is a Frontier with a full size bed. You can get the full size trucks with a CC and long bed, but then you're driving a 22 foot vehicle and it's ridiculous in the city. Good luck parking. There was a Hardbody for sale on craigslist here that someone swapped a diesel into. I think it was the 3.2l turbodiesel? It was actually really nice, but he wanted $7000, which is a little too rich for my blood. And he said he was only getting like 23mpg which seemed really low. Hard to get parts for? But why would a diesel ever break down? especially a Nissan diesel. The reason you buy a diesel is because it never breaks. Your best bet is to jack it up, try to move the tire and see what happens... Ok. I'll do that and check for play. Another thing I remembered. On the highway, my truck "porpoises". I kinda discarded it as the truck being 20 years old and having awful roads, but my friend makes a big deal about it on the highway. The scenario is whenever there is a bit of a dip, not a sharp bump, the truck will smoothly bob up and down (as it's supposed to) to absorb the energy. The problem is that the 2 corners of the front bob at different rates. I haven't noticed it in a while, but I think the drivers side takes much longer to stop bobbing than the pass. side. I replaced both strut rod bushings and all shocks, but I bought Monroe shocks. I know Monroe aren't the best, but they have 6-9k miles on them. Could they be junk already? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfoley412 Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Re-Index your Torsion Bars. My front end was sloppy until I re-indexed.. now it feels sturdy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfoley412 Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 at least for the bouncy highway travel problem, not sure about your steering problem I kind of had one but getting new tires made that better for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicanddionne Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 fast5speed i know this really has nothing to do with the thread but i would like to ask if the e-brake is on the dash or floorboard? reason being I have driven hardbodies for years and recently purchased a pathy 4x4, 5 speed. I would like to know if it is possible to move the ebrake to the dash from the floor. and if anyone else knows of how to or if-can be done easily please chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast5speed Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share Posted November 14, 2013 fast5speed i know this really has nothing to do with the thread but i would like to ask if the e-brake is on the dash or floorboard? reason being I have driven hardbodies for years and recently purchased a pathy 4x4, 5 speed. I would like to know if it is possible to move the ebrake to the dash from the floor. and if anyone else knows of how to or if-can be done easily please chime in. Mine is in the dash (kind of?) right next to/below the steering wheel. Someone posted a video of tracing the e-brake cable all the way back to the rear brakes. Someone was also curious about swapping styles. I believe the general consensus was reached that it is much more complicated to do than it's worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 We had a thread a while back asking 'how hard could it be.' Didn't look too bad but I don't think anybody ended up doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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