Solland Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) Hello all, my name is Jon and I am a newfriend. I just moved across Canada to Alberta and I got a 1994 Pathfinder from my uncle. She's been kind to me thus far but the other day something terrible happened. When I hit about 80 km/h the car front end starts shaking violently, and I can feel it in the steering wheel. In 4WD I can make it up to around 100 km/h. Hitting any bump above 70 km/h will generally proc the shaking. I looked under the car and found these babies out of whack. I assume they are stabilizers and they are causing the problem, and I'm wondering what I can do. I am hoping I can unbolt, put it back in place, then rebolt. I am not sure if there should be a bolt in the end. Edited October 31, 2013 by Solland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) Welcome to NPORA !!! yeah, those are shot, they are called tension rods and they should look like this: your going to need to pick up 2 new ones, may be able to find decent one's from a junkyard or just order them through Rob on the forum, He works in a Nissan dealer in Texas and has good prices, you can contact him about the parts here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/page-42?do=findComment&comment=689981 I would not drive the truck with those rods broken never mind do 100KMH in 4wd until you fix them, a lot of members on here use these bushings instead of the rubber OEM one's, these are made by moog, you can see the before and after difference when I did them on mine, they are available from Rockauto.com and other stores the part number I used is K9515 they run $19.32 for the set (does both sides with new sleeves): I would also recommend downloading the Factory Service Manual from the link in this thread, it's free, you can find it here, it's the first link, just open each section and save it in a folder: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26616-factory-service-manuals/ Edited October 31, 2013 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Do NOT drive the truck with the tension rods snapped...I've never seen them do that. Definitely replace the tension/compression rods and use new bushings. I use energy suspension, some people like moog. Those are not stabilizers though, they are a main component of your lower wishbone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solland Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Thanks very much for the quick response.. Okay so the rod is supposed to pass through the hole with a rubber piece on each side of the hole? Wouldn't i just need the new bushings then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) did your rods break? or is the threaded part still there? from the pics it looks like both of your rods snapped, the rods, with the nut and washer on the back of the bracket on the frame should not be able to just come out of the hole, Yes, the rod goes through the hole, bushing on each side, washer on each side, nut on the back side, oh and you need to use a wrench on that rear nut as a socket will not fit Edited October 31, 2013 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solland Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Right I guess they should be a bit longer, pretty weird thye just snapped, could there be an underlying prblem?The tension rods I need are part no 54470-31G00? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 same part number I just got, you probably need 2 washers and the rear nuts too I guess, 54470-31G00 - tension rod 54477-T6000- washer nut part number is not coming up over time if the bushings are worn where the rod goes through the hole in the bracket on the frame will slowly eat through the rod and sleeve, someone just posted a pic of a really bad one on here, probably what happened to yours, and it most likely wore the tension rod down so much one bump and snap ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Welcome to the forum. Underlying problem is lack of maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Yep, those should be inspected whenver the front tires are off, hell, you don't even need to take the tires off! Looks like you also have a substantial oil leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solland Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Yea it leaks and burns oil, not sure which is worse. Gaskets are probably deteriorating was my guess. To put the new rods on do i put 1 bushing and washer on the rod, put the rod in the hole, put the other washer and bushing on and then nut/bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/fa.pdf Page 44 will have all you need. Make sure the nut is torqued on properly. I had mine back off once! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solland Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Yea I already read that but it doesn't give much detail about the process, i'm very green to working on cars I've only worked on bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 I tripped over this in the How To section of the Garage. It should help... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32546-how-to-replace-strut-rod-bushings/ B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solland Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) i want to change them out this weekend, i got quoted from a nissan dealership (with parts in stock):128 for bars68 for bushings26 for washers12 for collars10 for nutsI would rather the moog bushings because they seem better and would save me almost 50 bucks, but I also really want to fix this all this weekend and the bushings would have to be shipped and get here next week. Your thoughts? Also preferable would not be paying 6.5 dollars each for washers...PS. Yes Hardbody thanks for the FSM link I've already downloaded it. And thank you to Precise that is a great description of the process and gives me great confidence. Edited October 31, 2013 by Solland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 same part number I just got, you probably need 2 washers and the rear nuts too I guess, 54470-31G00 - tension rod 54477-T6000- washer nut part number is not coming up over time if the bushings are worn where the rod goes through the hole in the bracket on the frame will slowly eat through the rod and sleeve, someone just posted a pic of a really bad one on here, probably what happened to yours, and it most likely wore the tension rod down so much one bump and snap ! 54470-31G00 ROD,TENSION $38.14 QTY NEEDED: 2 54477-T6000 WSHR,TENSION $4.51 QTY NEEDED: 4 08912-4461A NUT, TENSION, REAR $2.21 QTY NEEDED: 2 54479-50W0A COLLAR, TENSION $4.72 QTY NEEDED: 2 54476-01W00 BUSHING, TENSION $15.36 QTY NEEDED: 4 08912-4441A NUT, TENSION, FRONT $1.65 QTY NEEDED: 4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solland Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) my quotes are a bit higher than yours Edited October 31, 2013 by Solland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 That's why Rob is The man !!! You already have 2 of the washers, unless they are deformed should only need 2, Rockauto is pretty fast with there shipping, that applies in the US no idea as far as shipping to Canada, also there is a 5% off code that you can use when you go to check out on the rockauto site, you enter it in the "where did you here about us" box,. the latest code is always in the first post of this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26865-rockautocom-discount-code/ The only part that may give you trouble when replacing the bushings is when you go to re-install the 2 bolts that go through the lower control arm, I will either use a large screw driver or a large punch to line up one of the holes, than once one hole is lined up the second one is pretty easy to line up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solland Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 While im at it, My car is not idling properly and will stall sometimes even when im moving but my foot isnt on the gas, other times it will idle just fine. My only thought was the idle control valve is gunked up but I definitely dont have the money or knowhow to change that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 try cleaning the TB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solland Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 bolts are so rusted i dont think i can get them off without a torch or cutting them off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 what bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 The throttle body's easy-ish to get to, just pull off the end of the intake tube and you'll be looking right into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solland Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 bolts on the strut attaching to control arm, not the TB, tried to change bars over the weekend but couldnt get step 1: remove bolts done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 I would soak them in a penetrating oil, PB blast if you can get it. WD40 makes a new one think it is in a black can. Than borrow a big breaker bar or use a 1/2" ratchet that you don;t mind if it breaks and put a pipe over the handle, If the but doesn;t want to budge, do as I said and cut the head off the bolt, unless you have access to a heat source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 (edited) I had seized bolts in mine as well. My technique is to soak the bolts in PB blaster for a few hours (PB Blaster>WD40). just repeat the spray every 20-30 mins a few times, and then let it sit for a while. once they have been generously saturated, hit the bolts with an MPS gas torch. You can pick up an MPS (MAPP) gas torch at any hardware store for very little money. They burn a hell of a lot hotter than propane and cost the same. I think I got my canister + nozzle for about 20 bucks and I still have yet to burn through one bottle of gas. I have used it quite a lot in the last year and im just getting to the end of the bottle now. Great investment! Once it's nice and hot, hit it with the 1/2" breaker bar and you should be alright. When you throw it all back together, put a little bit of anti-seize on the threads and your life will be a lot easier next time you have to take it apart (if ever). Edited November 4, 2013 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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