A few questions and concerns of my old WD21

[medicbaldwin]

I've had my pathfinder for just over a year, haven't done anything to it aside from fluid changes all around, and opening the inlet into the airbox.

 

Here's my questions:

 

1. It's an automatic and seems to be very lazy about downshifting. Ie: cruising down the road, OD off, at 40mph, slow down to make a turn and it won't downshift until after I've made the turn then have to push on the gas to probably 1/2 throttle and FINALLY we shift down and off we go.

 

2. Anybody else seem to have the 2000rpm gutless wonder? From probably 2000-3000 rpm the old pathy is just a turd, then it finally gets going.

 

3. Last question, for now anyway, regarding the JGC spring swap. Turns out junkyards around here are absolute crooks and want nearly $100 for used springs off a JGC. So, I hit the internets and see I can get new ones from Rock Auto for about $50. My question is which part # should I order to get the rear lifted? On rockauto there are several part numbers and a couple different brands, but only 1 or 2 actually have the spring gauge listed.

 

I ordered a set of moog springs last year that were OEM replacements, supposedly fellas were getting about 1" lift with these. So I play along and order some, just to find out it actually lowered the rear no I'm draggin ass and it rides soft and squishy.

 

4. Told you I wasnt done, I also need to replace all the suspension bushings to stiffen this pig up. Any suggestions?

[Nefarious]

Find the JGC upcountry model springs. They are the stiffest and give the most lift.

I use energy suspension poly bushes, they have been great for years now. Still no squeeks

[medicbaldwin]

thanks for the response nefarious. I'll see what I can find on those springs.

[RF600]

With an auto trans have you cleaned out the transmission cooler? That is the cause of a lot of transmission deaths. The cooler gets clogged and no fluid goes through it. No cooling and the tyranny burns up. I would look at that.

 

Also when was the last time you changed your fuel filter? Some vehicles have been known to have "tyranny" issues that was nothing more than a fuel filter.

[Nefarious]

I believe the range is somewhere around 94-99 , the v8 model with 'upcountry' package had a factory 1" lift which equates to 3-3.5" lift on our trucks depending on the weight of the rear of your truck

[Nissanland]

A cooler from Nissan Titan are excellent at dispersing heat, I have one from an 04 titan with tow package as stock option. My transmission rarely runs hotter than 175deg. I replaced it in place of the stock one. I also run trans fluid at one part Lucas trans fluid to nine parts Nissan compatible sin/blend fluid. Transmission shifts very smooth and very little noise notable.my 95 has 234000 on it.

 

Before I got the new cooler the truck had a electric fan with thermo sswitch and a toggle switch in cab so I could turn it on,off at my choice just like my semi truck has set up.

[medicbaldwin]

thanks for the advice. I changed the fuel filter in the spring. Changed the trans fluid over the winter, bought a an aftermarket trans cooler but have yet to install it. I'm waiting till I change the water pump and timing belt to attack the cooler. Have to remove the radiator anyway.

 

My pathy is the XE with the rear tire carrier, she's a bit heavy out back.

[Nissanland]

Same here, xe with tire rack, in process of building her up. Installing a 3inch lift with new springs Rancho shocks,torsion bars, uca, steering stabilizer and braces.

 

Also have just replaced tune up issues. Plugs,wires,cap rotor, filters. New headlights HID. Styles

[medicbaldwin]

what rancho shocks are you installing? I installed the rs5000's last summer and thought it was quite odd, when I took them out of the box an popped the plastic band off that keeps them compressed for shipping, they did not extend on their own? In fact, I had to physically pull on them to get them extended to mount them up. Shortly after shock replacement I replaced the rear springs, with MOOG replacement springs from Rockauto. I noticed then the rear to be sagging, so now it rides nose high, and wanders all over the place.

 

i'll be ordering new JGC springs this weekend to get the rear back where it should be. Also, going to make a list of bushings I need to get all the bushings replaced.

 

Which torsion bars and UCA's are going to use?

[medicbaldwin]

BTW, this isn't a West Coast only post here fellas. Maybe some input from other parts of the country.

[Nissanland]

I'm using the complete lift kit from 4x4parts.com,, comes with the Rancho shocks and the hd torsion bars. The shocks are the rs5000' same with steering stabilizer. The rear springs are 3 inch taller than stock. With a 12000 lb winch being placed in front I think it's all going to balance out..

[medicbaldwin]

thanks for the info. I wasnt sure if people were still using the 4x4parts, parts or not. Thought I'd read complaints about the UCA's from that company.

maybe not.. I like to drink a bit and i make stuff up, so anything is possible.

 

Post up how the install goes, maybe some before and after pics..

[Nissanland]

That is the plan. Right now I've been repainting all the parts so they match, I have herd both good and bad. More good though. Been told trick is to go slow and make sure to torque every thing twice. Being a trucker I only get so much time when home and between the hunting and honey do list.

[Precise1]

BTW, this isn't a West Coast only post here fellas. Maybe some input from other parts of the country.

Seems like you got good info and answers so I didn't chime in. What is it that hasn't been answered?

 

B

[AndyC]

If you went with the stock length rs5k's you will need to order longer one's to accommodate the lift coils in the rear. A shock wont extend on its own, they do not control vehicle ride height.

[silverton]

I wouldn't worry too much about the transmission. The automatics in these trucks are inherently lazy. As for it being gutless I'd do a full tune up on it. Air filter, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, along with an O2 sensor and clean the MAF. These trucks are starting to get pretty old and you just don't know if/when maintenance was ever done by the previous owner(s).

 

Another thing to add about it being gutless. The truck does weigh over 4,000 pounds and only has an engine putting out 160hp/175'ish torque.

Edited September 29, 2013 by silverton

[medicbaldwin]

went on to rockauto and ordered up some CC782's (JGC springs) in hopes of straightening out the ride height on this thing. Also ordered some front and rear sway bar bushings as well as panhard bushings. This thing sways from side to side like a 350lb woman with a bad hip. Once it starts swaying it'll just keep going.

 

As for maintenance, I know it was neglected, which I promptly blamed my girlfriend for poor treatment and abuse of her college wagon.

 

I do have another question regarding exhaust. Still has the stock factory exhaust which needs replaced, so, is it worth the time and money to have an aftermarket or larger exhaust put on, or should I go with a factory replacement via rockauto with walker exhaust?

[medicbaldwin]

^{So, exhaust??? anybody???what happened to my itty bitty font? that's strange}

 

Edited October 2, 2013 by medicbaldwin

[Precise1]

Exhaust covers everything from manifolds to tail pipe. What part needs replacing and how much do you want to spend?

 

B

[Slartibartfast]

My dad had a local shop fab up a new stock-spec exhaust for mine but I don't remember what it came to. The truck seemed to pick up a little power, and it got a whole lot quieter to drive.

 

 

No cooling and the tyranny burns up.

 

Excessive heat is pretty bad for representative democracies, too.

[medicbaldwin]

as much as i'd like to replace the entire system starting with headers, that's not in my budget. The factory manifolds are still in good shape but everything from there back is rusted. I'm actually surprised it hasn't rusted completely through and started falling off.

Since this needs to be done, should I replace with a 2" or 2.25" I think a full 2.5" would be a bit overkill for a bone stock motor.

 

as for the tranny, or tyranny as some refer to it, i've noticed it upshifts just fine but it doesn't want to down shift to 2nd gear. Even though today I'm driving down the road, hit some traffic and slow to 10mph, go to accelerate and still in 3rd gear. Had to manually shift to 2nd.

 

 

[Slartibartfast]

You might try adjusting the throttle position sensor. I found this in the EF&EC section of the service manual, to which there's a download link somewhere around here. (I had a link, but it quit working. Anybody got a current one?) A misadjusted TPS might explain some of the lousy shifting and lack of power.

 

Here's a screenshot from EF&EC page 12:

 

[silverton]

2.5" would be just fine for this motor, but you won't see much of an increase in power, only noise. As the factory manifolds and cat(s) will be restricting the exhaust flow. Just don't put a Cherry bomb resonator on it, those are the worst things ever for exhaust flow.

 

And before messing with the TPS, check the output first.

[Precise1]

So would 4" HVAC ducting...

 

as much as i'd like to replace the entire system starting with headers, that's not in my budget. The factory manifolds are still in good shape but everything from there back is rusted. I'm actually surprised it hasn't rusted completely through and started falling off.

Since this needs to be done, should I replace with a 2" or 2.25" I think a full 2.5" would be a bit overkill for a bone stock motor.

 

as for the tranny, or tyranny as some refer to it, i've noticed it upshifts just fine but it doesn't want to down shift to 2nd gear. Even though today I'm driving down the road, hit some traffic and slow to 10mph, go to accelerate and still in 3rd gear. Had to manually shift to 2nd.

 

 

Without starting with intake and headers, there isn't much to be gained from the exhaust other than a cat back system for a stock motor. It will help a little with power and sound a little better, that is about it. Not saying to avoid it, just that the gains aren't tremendous. (will help higher RPM power).

 

I have a 2.25" system with headers and a 2" cat. I can't imagine going bigger than that, and 2" all the way probably would have increased low end and reduced noise slightly without choking the engine at high RPM. Quite frankly, I laugh at the 2.5" straight pipe crowd, what the hell do they think they are gaining out of a 3L 150hp motor?

 

I have some factory down/Y pipes in decent used condition (heat shields attached) that I have no use for. PM me if you are interested.

 

B

 

 

[silverton]

I just recommend 2.5" because it's most commonly used, and readily available at any exhaust shop and if he decides to get headers later, he's already got the bigger catback to support it.