medicbaldwin

To my great surprise the springs did indeed lift the rear and now it sits as it should. Prob gave me about a 1" lift over stock.

any updates on this pathfinder? As for the ability to safely tote a gun, just rednedck it out and throw 2 truck window gun racks in the side windas. Might be redneck, but you're in washington and would be the envy of all the redneck truck owners who only have 1 gun rack.

I can see how old this thread is, yet, people like myself still refer to it. I weighed my options of $50 at the local junk yard for JGC springs or buying new ones from rockauto. I ended up with CC782 springs for a V8 JGC, now i'm worried before I install them I have essentially wasted my benjamins. I've read on here where people are getting lift, some are not, and some are having all the soft progressive coils smash together. Should I bother wasting time and effort just for disappointment or send them back and go a different route. I'm looking for a bit of a lift just to straighten the damn thing out. I've replaced the springs already with another set from rockauto that were for the pathfinder. Having hopes of possibly a 1" lift, I was very disappointed to see the rear in fact dropped and now sags lower than stock.

this is a great article, especially the simplicity of how My1Path breaks it down from his post back in march 2010. Is there anyway somebody can throw in some pics of the bolts to measure for the front? It sounds easy but when I crawl under the damn thing I see bolts everywhere and can't come up with measurements that make any sense. thanks

As per my usual, i put the car before the horse and ordered a muffler a while back and forgot that I had. I think I went conservative a 2.25" muffler, planning to do a full exhaust re-do, but will probably just piece it together as I can then have it all installed. Problem is, I have another project going at the same time, so when $ is available it's always a toss up as to which vehicle gets new goods.

as much as i'd like to replace the entire system starting with headers, that's not in my budget. The factory manifolds are still in good shape but everything from there back is rusted. I'm actually surprised it hasn't rusted completely through and started falling off. Since this needs to be done, should I replace with a 2" or 2.25" I think a full 2.5" would be a bit overkill for a bone stock motor. as for the tranny, or tyranny as some refer to it, i've noticed it upshifts just fine but it doesn't want to down shift to 2nd gear. Even though today I'm driving down the road, hit some traffic and slow to 10mph, go to accelerate and still in 3rd gear. Had to manually shift to 2nd.

So, exhaust??? anybody???what happened to my itty bitty font? that's strange

went on to rockauto and ordered up some CC782's (JGC springs) in hopes of straightening out the ride height on this thing. Also ordered some front and rear sway bar bushings as well as panhard bushings. This thing sways from side to side like a 350lb woman with a bad hip. Once it starts swaying it'll just keep going. As for maintenance, I know it was neglected, which I promptly blamed my girlfriend for poor treatment and abuse of her college wagon. I do have another question regarding exhaust. Still has the stock factory exhaust which needs replaced, so, is it worth the time and money to have an aftermarket or larger exhaust put on, or should I go with a factory replacement via rockauto with walker exhaust?

thanks for the info. I wasnt sure if people were still using the 4x4parts, parts or not. Thought I'd read complaints about the UCA's from that company. maybe not.. I like to drink a bit and i make stuff up, so anything is possible. Post up how the install goes, maybe some before and after pics..

BTW, this isn't a West Coast only post here fellas. Maybe some input from other parts of the country.

what rancho shocks are you installing? I installed the rs5000's last summer and thought it was quite odd, when I took them out of the box an popped the plastic band off that keeps them compressed for shipping, they did not extend on their own? In fact, I had to physically pull on them to get them extended to mount them up. Shortly after shock replacement I replaced the rear springs, with MOOG replacement springs from Rockauto. I noticed then the rear to be sagging, so now it rides nose high, and wanders all over the place. i'll be ordering new JGC springs this weekend to get the rear back where it should be. Also, going to make a list of bushings I need to get all the bushings replaced. Which torsion bars and UCA's are going to use?

thanks for the advice. I changed the fuel filter in the spring. Changed the trans fluid over the winter, bought a an aftermarket trans cooler but have yet to install it. I'm waiting till I change the water pump and timing belt to attack the cooler. Have to remove the radiator anyway. My pathy is the XE with the rear tire carrier, she's a bit heavy out back.

thanks for the response nefarious. I'll see what I can find on those springs.

I've had my pathfinder for just over a year, haven't done anything to it aside from fluid changes all around, and opening the inlet into the airbox. Here's my questions: 1. It's an automatic and seems to be very lazy about downshifting. Ie: cruising down the road, OD off, at 40mph, slow down to make a turn and it won't downshift until after I've made the turn then have to push on the gas to probably 1/2 throttle and FINALLY we shift down and off we go. 2. Anybody else seem to have the 2000rpm gutless wonder? From probably 2000-3000 rpm the old pathy is just a turd, then it finally gets going. 3. Last question, for now anyway, regarding the JGC spring swap. Turns out junkyards around here are absolute crooks and want nearly $100 for used springs off a JGC. So, I hit the internets and see I can get new ones from Rock Auto for about $50. My question is which part # should I order to get the rear lifted? On rockauto there are several part numbers and a couple different brands, but only 1 or 2 actually have the spring gauge listed. I ordered a set of moog springs last year that were OEM replacements, supposedly fellas were getting about 1" lift with these. So I play along and order some, just to find out it actually lowered the rear no I'm draggin ass and it rides soft and squishy. 4. Told you I wasnt done, I also need to replace all the suspension bushings to stiffen this pig up. Any suggestions?

I have a question regarding contacting an administrator or moderator. I have a home business i'd like to advertise in the vendor section but need permission from an adminstrator. Went to the bottom of the page, clicked administrator link, attempted to send a PM and received "this member cannot receive personal messages". Any ideas how to contact one of them or how to advertise my business without getting black balled? thanks, medic

with this latest update it still doesn't help my issue of deciding if I want running lights or turn signals. The kit i purchased is all pre-wired just plug and off ya go. Well I plugged in, and my lights are sketchy as stated above. I even purchased a light tester to make sure it wasnt the trailer, turns out it's the plug-n-play setup. just not sure how to rectify the situation?

In 87 I was rollin a badass BMX bike as I was 12. My first set of wheels didn't come till 1992, which was a 1985 Toyota Celica. That bad boy had just been freshly painted PINK, just before I bought it. I mean what other car would a 17 y/o boy, I mean MAN, want to drive than a pink one. I'm not talking bright and bold hello kitty pink, it was an ugly pinky/purple color. Only good thing was at night it looked white. It was promptly painted charcoal grey. I drove it around for about three years then the continuous flow of cars, trucks and suv's started.

http://www.etrailer.com/t1-1991_Nissan_Pathfinder.htm I purchased one of these pre-wired, plug-n-play, doo dads for my pathy and here's my issue. Headlights off= brake and turn signals work perfect. headlights on= running and brake lights, NO turnsignals? I called the local wire shop i bought it from and they thought maybe a bad ground. i moved the ground to a new location, scrubbed the paint, made sure I had a good connection, still does the same thing???

Nice write up! Thats a whole lot of knowledge and technical know how spilled out onto this board.

Torqflo/11 x 11 1/2 in x 3/4. Super-Cool transmission cooler anybody see an issue with this cooler from Autozone? It doesn't have the GVW or BTU's listed, but from what i've seen it's 4" wider than the B&M discussed in this thread.

thanks for the heads up. I noticed duralast has two or three different "grades" of U-joints. Price wise they're about the same, so i'll go with the heavier duty set.

So my 95 needs new U-joints and i'm curious if anybody is/has used Duralast (Autozone) brand u-joints or suspension parts? What luck have you had with them? Recommendations? Autozone is 1/2 mile from my house vs. rockauto which is at least 3 days shipping

Just out of curiosity, are you sure the vid of the guy with the nissan 240 has a v-6 and not a straight 6 swap?

ordered the strut rod bushings but did not come with a new metal washer (the one that's split), as seen in #27. From the pics it looks like he replaced the bushings without the metal washer, do I need this?

zeroed